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3,000 miles and still on the original drive axle, here's my .02

What I meant was shaft OD size. It’s all over the place new. Can’t polish a turd.

7CFC0E76-3E4F-4735-80D6-C6AAFF1F86E5.jpeg

:dunno:
 

We all know what we're talking about but technically, it's always the shaft that is spinning inside the bearing since engine power is turning shaft. The bearing has nothing turning it so technically, it can't spin on the shaft. I think to Clutchmaster's point, imagine how hard a bearing full of grease turns when it's cold. Take any good bearing that has grease in it and put it in your freezer. When you pull it out, try turning it. It turns harder than you'd expect. Same as sled sitting outside in cold. More grease the bearing has, the worse it is.
One other thing I did to find out how warm/hot that bearing gets when I'm riding. I removed the foot stirrup and guard from the brake side and rode several hours on fairly fast trails. After a short blast on a lake, I braked to stop quickly and put my fingers down on the track shaft where it sticks out of rotor, and did what I could to put my fingers on caliper housing behind the rotor. No heat at all, was barely even warm. I also tested track shaft right next to seal in tunnel. Not even warm. All cool/cold. This was after riding in 20 degF weather for a few hours.
My conclusion is that bearing is always cool. And in morning, it's cold meaning it doesn't want to turn with shaft (lots of drag from grease) so shaft spins in bearing. I think when you're riding and you accelerate shaft quickly allot (on-off throttle) the shaft spins in bearing allot. At steady speed, I think bearing eventually catches up to track shaft RPM and stops spinning. But of course, it's only momentary with this application because we're always on and off throttle.

Good observations!
We say it backwards because when we check the bearing we spin it on shaft, but we mean the same thing.
Now how cold this bearing stays is very interesting.
Maybe a lighter grease could help...............................still needs to be locked on shaft though. Really, no excuse.

Next year i was gonna get a bearing to lock on like the Apex then make a new inner plate out of Stainless that would make room for it.
Not my problem anymore, but i need to have an answer before i buy another Winder. Corona may be stalling this purchase for year so maybe it will be "addressed"
 
Good observations!
We say it backwards because when we check the bearing we spin it on shaft, but we mean the same thing.
Now how cold this bearing stays is very interesting.
Maybe a lighter grease could help...............................still needs to be locked on shaft though. Really, no excuse.

Next year i was gonna get a bearing to lock on like the Apex then make a new inner plate out of Stainless that would make room for it.
Not my problem anymore, but i need to have an answer before i buy another Winder. Corona may be stalling this purchase for year so maybe it will be "addressed"

BOP lock is working fine, people who have failures are either under torquing or using it on a very worn shaft.
 
So if buying a brand new winder would you 100 percent buy the bop shaft saver?or wait and use your warranty in the off season. The 2 winder/vipers I ride with are both at 10,000 km and haven't been addressed yet.
 
So if buying a brand new winder would you 100 percent buy the bop shaft saver?or wait and use your warranty in the off season. The 2 winder/vipers I ride with are both at 10,000 km and haven't been addressed yet.

I'd buy it right off the bat and install right from new, but that's just me.
 
So if buying a brand new winder would you 100 percent buy the bop shaft saver?or wait and use your warranty in the off season. The 2 winder/vipers I ride with are both at 10,000 km and haven't been addressed yet.
Installed from new, and it provides a "little peace of mind", as to one less thing to worry about!
 
IMO put it in before you ride it. I'd say 90% chance if you don't, shaft will be spinning in bearing from day 1.
 
Well it only took almost 10 years to address the sight glass in the case.... So i'm thinking they will address the bearing issue in 2030...
 
I have heard they have a fix for the driveshaft and the top gear but did not get a chance to test it yet this spring due to covid. Hoping before 2030.... but I doubt it for next year.
 
I find it very frustrating that this isn’t being addressed. Fixing the driveline issues would take this sled from being just good to great. The fact that it’s not being addressed just highlights the disconnect between Yamaha/Arctic Cat and the customer.
 


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