BlgsRX-1mtn
TY 4 Stroke God
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- Snowmobile
- '03 RX-1 Mountain LE
freelheeler said:
Good to hear it's running good. Want to try a boosted sled next weekend?
Looks like I might not get the Shockwave multi ramp helix on in time for next weekend. It still hasn't arrived 
Jim
freelheeler
Pro
cooke was awesome and the sled is running better just needs to be geared down and take it out. this is where the issues started???
got home thursday night went to regear the sled and holy crap there was shrapnel in the chain case?? no real cause no real obivous parts broken just shrapnal??
regeared cleaned things out and looked the bearings but nothing really looks damaged? could it be the jackshaft moving?? took it out for a few miles and it seemd to run fine but i'd like to figure things out? any thoughts comments????
later
got home thursday night went to regear the sled and holy crap there was shrapnel in the chain case?? no real cause no real obivous parts broken just shrapnal??
regeared cleaned things out and looked the bearings but nothing really looks damaged? could it be the jackshaft moving?? took it out for a few miles and it seemd to run fine but i'd like to figure things out? any thoughts comments????
later
Powder Nomad
Veteran
Yo Joe!
Hey! Out of curiosity, what did you get it geared to? If the engine continues to run as good as it did in Cooke, w/ it geared down it should really rip!
Re: the shrapnel, hmmm... is it literally shrapnel (big chunks) or more just shavings/dust? Also wondering if it's related to that fancy reverse...
Hope you and your family have a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Rod
Hey! Out of curiosity, what did you get it geared to? If the engine continues to run as good as it did in Cooke, w/ it geared down it should really rip!
Re: the shrapnel, hmmm... is it literally shrapnel (big chunks) or more just shavings/dust? Also wondering if it's related to that fancy reverse...
Hope you and your family have a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Rod
Kachess
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The two fellows that had reverse in our group swapped them out for standard chaincases and made a little money. Having the reverse was nice, but they tended to destroy their ice scratchers, and the "clunking" and play in the box scared them. Plus they are a pain to dissassmble and reassemble. The standard box seems simple and mostly bulletproof. I can't imagine where "shrapnel" would come from. When I have had bearings going out I see the fine stuff and the oil discolors (kind of milky).
freelheeler
Pro
rod, geared down to 19/40 and haven't had the sled out except for ski access, hope to really test it soon. may try and catch up with jim next weekend? froshtbite has some issues with his rider forward, i think it might have something to do with the stock bars? i didn't get a lot of time on your sled before i 'parked' it in the creek bed but it did feel a bit different then mine, not sure if you got enough time on mine to feel a difference??
the shrapnel was about 1/4 long slivers that were pretty narrow? definitely was starting a sand blast the inside of the chain cover. i've been checking the chain case oil and it seems to be running clean??
the shrapnel was about 1/4 long slivers that were pretty narrow? definitely was starting a sand blast the inside of the chain cover. i've been checking the chain case oil and it seems to be running clean??
freelheeler
Pro
was out today with a couple of XP's and got my butt handed to me, well i should mention i had the carb heat on most of the day by accident, temp started at around -10 this morning and the sled ran okay till the temp got up to around 10 and started dogging. once i realized the carb heat was on the sled came to life a bit more but still was in a different class then the XP's.
my rpm's are only around 9600 when climbing, i've got the shockwave turned all the way in and that's all i can squeeze out of it. so i need to do something to get things turned up weights, carb springs, primary spring??? then i got to thinking about belt deflection??
i've got an orange-pink-orange primary spring, which seems to be a pretty stiff spring, generally does a stronger spring increase rpms or is it a softer spring? the cooke yamaha dealer claims a pink spring would be the next step which is softer?? how much of a change can i expect by changing spring stiffness? and how much loss in performance could i be getting from excessive belt deflection? any tips on adjusting the belt where do other run there's
thansk
my rpm's are only around 9600 when climbing, i've got the shockwave turned all the way in and that's all i can squeeze out of it. so i need to do something to get things turned up weights, carb springs, primary spring??? then i got to thinking about belt deflection??
i've got an orange-pink-orange primary spring, which seems to be a pretty stiff spring, generally does a stronger spring increase rpms or is it a softer spring? the cooke yamaha dealer claims a pink spring would be the next step which is softer?? how much of a change can i expect by changing spring stiffness? and how much loss in performance could i be getting from excessive belt deflection? any tips on adjusting the belt where do other run there's
thansk
BlgsRX-1mtn
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2003
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- Location
- Billings, MT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '03 RX-1 Mountain LE
Joe, We'll be heading out (from Billings) in about 1 hr. If you want to ride with some Yamies'; we'll be there all weekend long (I'll be there until the 2nd).
Jim
Jim
Freeheeler.... Just curious but how long have you had that 16inch Maverick on your sled? My sled just got the same track in a 162 length and I'm seeing the same kind of drop in rpm's. I called over to Outlaw Motorsports and they set me straight... They explained alot of it to me and to be honest the real technical stuff went over my head. But I definitely gathered that the main issues needed to be addressed with the primary clutch to get the rpm's back and then adjusting my shockwave would help afterwards with snow conditions. Anyhow I hope this might shed some light on gettin your rpm's back up...
Also how is your Maverick track holding up? I've already tore a few lugs riding in great snow.... seems like a really soft track.
Also how is your Maverick track holding up? I've already tore a few lugs riding in great snow.... seems like a really soft track.
freelheeler
Pro
yah i've been talking with dustin at outlaw and have a new spring coming, also ground my 05 weights to drop a bit more weight.
the maverick track is all but gone, it's really shredding up and bent. i just couldn't believe it could happen and here i am facing another tear down to put on the challenger extreme. i know i should have listened to those who advised against the maverick. hope the challenger holds up better! i've been riding in cooke and they have great snow and the track is starting to fall off the sled. so more tuning to look forward to yehee freak'n ha!!
i've been told the secondary is the place to address the increase track size. increase the degree of the secondary spring to help back shift?? thoughts comments, i'm running a white secondary...
the maverick track is all but gone, it's really shredding up and bent. i just couldn't believe it could happen and here i am facing another tear down to put on the challenger extreme. i know i should have listened to those who advised against the maverick. hope the challenger holds up better! i've been riding in cooke and they have great snow and the track is starting to fall off the sled. so more tuning to look forward to yehee freak'n ha!!
i've been told the secondary is the place to address the increase track size. increase the degree of the secondary spring to help back shift?? thoughts comments, i'm running a white secondary...
freelheeler
Pro
thanks for the invite jim, but cooke gets a little crazy for my taste this time of year. i was out on thursday and the snow was great. but we saw a ton of trailers rolling thru the park. medium iron shoot out?? is it an offical event??
update on the shrapnel i think it might have been a washer off the end of the middle shaft for the reverse. i couldn't find it when i tore into the chain case again last night and there wasn't any new piece after the initial cleaning?? i'll run it again tomorrow and have it pulled apart again soon for the track swap. good freak'n times.
look forward to the new spring and track,
in additional i pulled the primary clutch today and my belt was nearly blown? rode it hard in cooke and about half way thru the day i smelled belt but continued to ride hard. could this have contributed to the rpm loss?? i should have been thinking belts the xp's i was with had to replace 2 apiece at $110 a piece!! although it sounds like skidoo is warranting belts.
update on the shrapnel i think it might have been a washer off the end of the middle shaft for the reverse. i couldn't find it when i tore into the chain case again last night and there wasn't any new piece after the initial cleaning?? i'll run it again tomorrow and have it pulled apart again soon for the track swap. good freak'n times.
look forward to the new spring and track,
in additional i pulled the primary clutch today and my belt was nearly blown? rode it hard in cooke and about half way thru the day i smelled belt but continued to ride hard. could this have contributed to the rpm loss?? i should have been thinking belts the xp's i was with had to replace 2 apiece at $110 a piece!! although it sounds like skidoo is warranting belts.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Joe, the below statement has some flaws.
"I've been told the secondary is the place to address the increase track size. increase the degree of the secondary spring to help back shift?? thoughts comments, i'm running a white secondary..."
1. First off the primary is the place to address the increase in your track size. You'll either need to lighten your flyweights, or increase your primary spring total force. I'd do both.
2. The secondary spring will help with FINE TUNNING of your clutch setup. Yes, increasing your spring tension of the secondary will keep your sled from shifting up longer and you'll gain a few RPM (100-200) but think of it as fine tunning device for changes in snow conditions.
3. Where you can gain huge with your particular secondary setup is by decreasing your helix angle. Lighten your fly weights to about 50 grams and your sled will be two stroke snappy. Have your Shockwave ring backed out two full turns in town. The sled will still pull hard because the motor is being loaded through the higher angle of helix you have dialed in. As you gain elevation twist the adjustment ring in (decreasing your helix angle and increasing RPM) until it bottoms out. If you can't hit over 10,000 RPM then your flyweights are still too heavy.
I have dropped mine 15 grams so far as an example. I was pulling over 10,200 in neck deep (and I'm not kidding) powder yesterday.
You may need some adjustable flyweights or just run what you have empty and use the shockwave to tune your shift speed.
Have a good. Good luck. Thanks for the call.
Frosty
PS: I see two things on your signature that are no longer correct.
_________________
03 RX-1
m7 153
162x16 maverick
rider forward
under tunnel exhaust
rubbermaid airbox- kachess
"I've been told the secondary is the place to address the increase track size. increase the degree of the secondary spring to help back shift?? thoughts comments, i'm running a white secondary..."
1. First off the primary is the place to address the increase in your track size. You'll either need to lighten your flyweights, or increase your primary spring total force. I'd do both.
2. The secondary spring will help with FINE TUNNING of your clutch setup. Yes, increasing your spring tension of the secondary will keep your sled from shifting up longer and you'll gain a few RPM (100-200) but think of it as fine tunning device for changes in snow conditions.
3. Where you can gain huge with your particular secondary setup is by decreasing your helix angle. Lighten your fly weights to about 50 grams and your sled will be two stroke snappy. Have your Shockwave ring backed out two full turns in town. The sled will still pull hard because the motor is being loaded through the higher angle of helix you have dialed in. As you gain elevation twist the adjustment ring in (decreasing your helix angle and increasing RPM) until it bottoms out. If you can't hit over 10,000 RPM then your flyweights are still too heavy.
I have dropped mine 15 grams so far as an example. I was pulling over 10,200 in neck deep (and I'm not kidding) powder yesterday.
You may need some adjustable flyweights or just run what you have empty and use the shockwave to tune your shift speed.
Have a good. Good luck. Thanks for the call.
Frosty
PS: I see two things on your signature that are no longer correct.
_________________
03 RX-1
m7 153
162x16 maverick
rider forward
under tunnel exhaust
rubbermaid airbox- kachess
tundra
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Am agree with Frostbite, Primary is the place to start. I changed my spring (i used short spring in the past) for the stiffer, and its not enough, i will lighten my Flyweight, but i will try a long spring before.
For the secondary, i swapped my 44-40 helix for a 44-36 with gray spring. I was getting a lot of heat and slipping with the 44-40 but better RPM(slipping) . Now RPM drop to 10 000- 9900 when climbing(but still pulling great) and to 9100 when riding WOT on trail or offtrail in snow.
I really dont know about 8BU-10(05 weight), i'm using 89L-00
they are light and very agressive. Snappy and pulling hard on take-off. They dont drop a hair of RPM when climbing and no RPM variation. Down side, they lack low RPM force on belt.
And with the Extreme, i prefer a very low engagement rpm. 3200 RPM to be exact, otherwise, you will trench to easily
For the secondary, i swapped my 44-40 helix for a 44-36 with gray spring. I was getting a lot of heat and slipping with the 44-40 but better RPM(slipping) . Now RPM drop to 10 000- 9900 when climbing(but still pulling great) and to 9100 when riding WOT on trail or offtrail in snow.
I really dont know about 8BU-10(05 weight), i'm using 89L-00
they are light and very agressive. Snappy and pulling hard on take-off. They dont drop a hair of RPM when climbing and no RPM variation. Down side, they lack low RPM force on belt.
And with the Extreme, i prefer a very low engagement rpm. 3200 RPM to be exact, otherwise, you will trench to easily
freelheeler
Pro
each time out i see more and more rips and tears in my maverick. is it me or should a track be able to with stand a few thin roads and the occasional stump or boulder?? i definitely didn't think i was overly rough on it?? and the majority of the riding has been in great snow just ask rod. i've never run thru a track so quickly and wonder if i i need to be easier on the track in that the rx1 is a heavier sled or if the challenger will hold up. i ran a polaris series IV on my MM700 and never tore a lug and i admit to working that sled.
Yah it's going to be like starting over with the extreme hopefully the changes i've made will make things a bit easier. i had the sled out again yesterday running roads, clear cuts and meadows no real climbs and the sleds pretty much rips. i'm definitley getting more comfortable with everything and really like how the sled boondocks even in tight spots. i'm sure i'll find a hole for it but it's actually impressed me with it ability to pull out of tight spots, i'm sure the 16 wide track helps a ton.
i ground the 05 weights to 45 grams, put on a new belt and she'll tack out on demand, i need to adjust the shockwave a bit . never really felt like i needed more but the new spring should help with rpms in cooke. it's so close to being setup perfect.
another interesting issue... this may help others??
i've been running the stock airbox without the internal lid over the filter, so yesterday i started out with it reinstalled and the sled ran like crap bogging and stalling! there i was again turning the carb heat on and off checking the airbox boots, then i pulled the internal cover off and it come to life. there seems to be an issue with restricting or opening the airbox and jetting. Rod if you read this it was very similar to your situation, just something to try.
Yah it's going to be like starting over with the extreme hopefully the changes i've made will make things a bit easier. i had the sled out again yesterday running roads, clear cuts and meadows no real climbs and the sleds pretty much rips. i'm definitley getting more comfortable with everything and really like how the sled boondocks even in tight spots. i'm sure i'll find a hole for it but it's actually impressed me with it ability to pull out of tight spots, i'm sure the 16 wide track helps a ton.
i ground the 05 weights to 45 grams, put on a new belt and she'll tack out on demand, i need to adjust the shockwave a bit . never really felt like i needed more but the new spring should help with rpms in cooke. it's so close to being setup perfect.
another interesting issue... this may help others??
i've been running the stock airbox without the internal lid over the filter, so yesterday i started out with it reinstalled and the sled ran like crap bogging and stalling! there i was again turning the carb heat on and off checking the airbox boots, then i pulled the internal cover off and it come to life. there seems to be an issue with restricting or opening the airbox and jetting. Rod if you read this it was very similar to your situation, just something to try.
Powder Nomad
Veteran
Mav shot?
Wow Joe, that bites re: the track... that thing should still look like new given the conditions you've had!
My challenger extreme (just the 15" wide, 2.25" lug) looks great other than where it was hitting my turn-down from the exhaust (which I trimmed after the first day riding).
Re: the internal cover, hmmm, I may have to try that. I won't be riding again until late Jan or Feb, but will certainly give that a shot! Also am glad to hear that you've been able to get the rpm's up now to where they should be! That thing should really rip now. And on the upside, with all the experience you're getting changing gears, tracks, etc., you could always get a part time job as a sled mechanic!
Hope you have a great New Year!
Rod
Wow Joe, that bites re: the track... that thing should still look like new given the conditions you've had!
My challenger extreme (just the 15" wide, 2.25" lug) looks great other than where it was hitting my turn-down from the exhaust (which I trimmed after the first day riding).
Re: the internal cover, hmmm, I may have to try that. I won't be riding again until late Jan or Feb, but will certainly give that a shot! Also am glad to hear that you've been able to get the rpm's up now to where they should be! That thing should really rip now. And on the upside, with all the experience you're getting changing gears, tracks, etc., you could always get a part time job as a sled mechanic!
Hope you have a great New Year!
Rod
freelheeler
Pro
update 1/5
track- installed camo extreme 162x16x2.5
primary clutch- ac silver spring plus weight removed
secondary- 110* w/ white yamaha spring
plan to take it out tomorrow, hope i've got my rpm's and adjustment in the shockwave.
i should buy stock in chain case oil! i've had the chain case apart 3 times since i found the shrapnel. i'm pretty sure it was a washer from the reverse middle gear, had to order a new one. it doesn't seem to affect anything having the washer missing but i plan to install it once it arrives. also have an 18th gear on the way.
track- installed camo extreme 162x16x2.5
primary clutch- ac silver spring plus weight removed
secondary- 110* w/ white yamaha spring
plan to take it out tomorrow, hope i've got my rpm's and adjustment in the shockwave.
i should buy stock in chain case oil! i've had the chain case apart 3 times since i found the shrapnel. i'm pretty sure it was a washer from the reverse middle gear, had to order a new one. it doesn't seem to affect anything having the washer missing but i plan to install it once it arrives. also have an 18th gear on the way.
