kingedwards99
Expert
I think I'm going to try Aluminum Soffit! It has small holes in it to help cool it off. I was thinking today about where I could find some aluminum sheeting and thought of Aluminum Soffit using the painted side down. Strating from the back how far are you going to the front Grizz?
grizztracks
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36" long: 32" attached to the tunnel protector and 4" extends past the protectors toward the rear.
porkchop
TY 4 Stroke Master
Aluminum soffit, like used on a house?
Pretty flimsy stuff & it may just rip right thru with ice/rocks/debris hitting it or pull off the rivets.... Up to you though.
Steal some decent sized road signs
Soon to be fabricating, thanks for the info Grizz.
Pretty flimsy stuff & it may just rip right thru with ice/rocks/debris hitting it or pull off the rivets.... Up to you though.
Steal some decent sized road signs
Soon to be fabricating, thanks for the info Grizz.
kingedwards99
Expert
perhaps ill double it!
bmazbnytro
Extreme
I copied grizz's design works great! I have only had build up once since doing it and that was last year when it was a hi of around 2 and we rode in 2' of powder most of the day. I used 20 guage stainless steel. Work donated it!
canoehead
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I run a similar style block off plate to Grizz and find that pulling the sled out of my heated shop for 15-20 minutes to cold soak prior to riding help greatly in reducing any accumulation.
cloead
Extreme
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my custom block off plate i made last night.. $19 sheet of aluminum from home depot:
it's pretty thin gauge though, might double it up at some point if it ends up tearing. they sell it in 36x36 sheets to i have enough leftover to make two more.
it's pretty thin gauge though, might double it up at some point if it ends up tearing. they sell it in 36x36 sheets to i have enough leftover to make two more.
Budyzer
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I need your opinion. I'm thinking of removing the tunnel protectors to help with some of the icing issues I have been reading about. Should I try the block off plate first or just remove the tunnel protectors?? If I remove the tunnel protectors obviously I won't have anything to connect the plate. Thanks
grizztracks
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Installing the plate to the protectors will do two things, it stops the ice from forming around the protectors and it reduces the amount of snow that hits the muffler and refreezes. If you remove the protectors no ice can form on them but you'll still have a lot of snow melt from the muffler refreezing on the sides of the tunnel. You'll see a reduction without the protectors but I think the better method is to add the plate.
cloead
Extreme
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I'd try the plate attached to the protectors first.. cheap and easy
kviper
VIP Member
Any one ever try fluid film? There was just an articl in SnowTech on it. They say it works on snow and ice build up and prevents rust and corrosion.
Sevey
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I tried some spray stuff once up in my tunnel and it was basically a waste of 15 bucks. The snow is thrown up in the tunnel at a rate that the spray stuff basically did nothing. Snow build up was status quo. What it did do is coat the tunnel with goo so all the dirt stuck to the tunnel instead of just falling out. Nice. lol
MS
MS
kviper
VIP Member
I tried some spray stuff once up in my tunnel and it was basically a waste of 15 bucks. The snow is thrown up in the tunnel at a rate that the spray stuff basically did nothing. Snow build up was status quo. What it did do is coat the tunnel with goo so all the dirt stuck to the tunnel instead of just falling out. Nice. lol
MS
So was it fluid film? I know people have tried different spray's! Looks like it's about $8.00 a can.
Sevey
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It was in a spray can. It was intended to spray on snow plows etc and was an anti stick product. It left a thick, tacky film on everything. Didn't work. MS
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Never Wet spray on the inside of the tunnel really works well.
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