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Update from "ttabs Nytro mod shop"

Re: Turbo inspection

otis said:
I took my seat and tank off to inspect the blower and the funny thing was I was missing a bolt from the turbo to the header. Other 3 were tight and the header bolts were all tight. Glad I checked and thanks for the advice.

No heat issues, but I used a thermal blanket material on top of the heat shield so the tank and wires looked good.

I was also found a vacuum line on the bottom of the intercooler was pulled off. I wonder if that will affect my power any? Do you remember what that hose if for? I never did run a test for vacuum leaks.

Sled is loaded and ready to go!

Otis

if you put a new bolt in, you will need to re-torque the bolts after the first ride, as the heating and shrinking of the metal tends to flex thigns quite a bit...I would also not install a bolt without using nordlock washers...
 

I have since the clutching post changed my clutching to the MCX clutching whihc is 14.5 rollers, 8-BU-00 weights with 4.5 gram stee in heel, and 2.4 gm steel in toe, and went with EPI purple secondary, also changed out primary spring, but cant remember which one it was...
 
Was this the clutching that Val Simmons recommended with the shockwave and secondary modification?

What gearing are you running? I am still having problems pull Rs in wet heavy snow up steep climbs. Making the motor work too hard with 20/40 gears with the shockwave all the way in making only 8200-8300 RPMs.

I am planning to run the 18T vs 19T on top.

Otis
 
I am 19-40 on gears....and 7tooth avids...

this clutching is special for me from a yammie genius...will report tomorrow on all diagnostics...

but you just need to shave some weight off your weights...are you running the stockers? or did you switch to 8 BU's or something?
 
Since I am going 162" Challenger extreme I am going to worsen my track speed issue. I really need adjustable clutch weights to help my cause. So far have been grinding the Apex weights. Work well in powder, but terrible in the wet stickier warm weather. Do you still recommend the Val Simmons secret clutch modifications? If so I am pulling it apart soon to send it out.

Otis
 
Get a Shockwave Adjustable helix for your secondary. Works great for the problems you have described.
 
ttabs - thanks for the useful information. Learned a lot ;)!
In Russia there are sites like this one - but such a good report with photos is not met.
 
Crewchief47 said:
Keep poking around, and don't forget the TY Tech pages.
Thanks for the link to TY Tech pages
yamaha_rules.gif
 
You should start a new thread with some winter riding photos from Russia. I love seeing sledding pics from other countries.
 
Just an update on clutching....

Primary- Yellow Silver Yellow- Short or Orange Pink Orange
Secondary- EPI Purple (set at 1 and 0)
Weights- 8BU-00 with Steel rivet in Heal, and Aluminum Tip (you will need to load these for your sled…to get RPM @ 8700)
Rollers- 14.5 Rollers
Boost is @ 9 PSI...
 
VERY IMPORTANT

Before you go riding again, you must absolutely check the fitting of your boots in your foot-wells. Fellas, there has to be at least three guys I know of that tore some serious tendons or ligaments in the foot, ankle, and knee cuz their foot got stuck in the foot-well. AND, that injurey is so darn simple to do and could easily end your riding career.

MTDream pulled is ankles twice in one ride cuz his boot design is so wide. I was dragged once on my Rev when I tried to bail off in mid air and I went along for the whole ride cuz my boot got stuck in the well.

So take your boot, place it in the foot-well and turn it sideways. Then, try to remove it. If there is any binding at all, take those foot retainer bars off.

680P4200026.jpg


My pair fits barely, but I think I'll remove the bars anyway. I'm not sure what good they do ya anyhow.
THis happened to me when I leaned to the side to pick something off the trail. My boot got stuck in that exact position and it stained my knee
 


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