upper gear bushing

[ClutchMaster]

That is not what I wanted to hear. I put the same bushing in my sled.

Don’t you get your panties in a bunch, if you were having bushing issues before, this bushing isn’t going to help solve your problems, in fact no bushing is going to help.
It’s not a bushing material issue, OCD got 10k miles out of one bushing!

 

[KnappAttack]

I just put the McMaster Carr in mine yesterday.

You can't overtighten the chain if you want the bushing to last. I ran 2000 miles with no wear on the bushing at all a few years back. Last season I overtightened the chain and toasted the bushing quickly.

I set mine up yesterday so that when the bolt touched the tensioner, I backed it off 1.5 turns on the 22 top gear. Had I tightened it up what I'd have called "finger tight" and backed it off 1.5 turns, the bolt would have still been against the tensioner and mop out the bushing again prematurely. The 21 stock gear is less prone to overtightening.

Bottom line, there needs to be 1/8" gap between the bolt and the tensioner if you want any bushing to last any length of time.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Not for that reason however.

you a believer in that shi

I just put the McMaster Carr in mine yesterday.

You can't overtighten the chain if you want the bushing to last. I ran 2000 miles with no wear on the bushing at all a few years back. Last season I overtightened the chain and toasted the bushing quickly.

I set mine up yesterday so that when the bolt touched the tensioner, I backed it off 1.5 turns on the 22 top gear. Had I tightened it up what I'd have called "finger tight" and backed it off 1.5 turns, the bolt would have still been against the tensioner and mop out the bushing again prematurely. The 21 stock gear is less prone to overtightening.

Bottom line, there needs to be 1/8" gap between the bolt and the tensioner if you want any bushing to last any length of time.

I am certain i had a gap between the bolt and tensioner. i dont recall the exact measurement, but i was about 1.25 turns back and was surprised there was a slight gap.

i did not drill oil holes in the McMaster Carr bushing as my gear did not have holes. not sure if that would have helped or not.

funny what CM said above though... the fella that let me rob parts from his chaincase up north where i was staying has a '17 winder with 10,000kms... I have now his original gear now in my chaincase and it has no play on the shaft at all. His dealer uses some polaris oil in his chaincase that he swears by, and is also a believer in keep the adjuster backed right off.

hmmmmmmmm...........

 

[74Nitro]

For better forward engagement of the tiny gear right? Well you may be doing two things at once.

Just limited as to moving that gear around as there should be a thrust washer beside each clip. Only room to add the .5mm shim, that's it.
I just like that it keeps the gears further meshed, that's all.

 

[KnappAttack]

you a believer in that shi

I am certain i had a gap between the bolt and tensioner. i dont recall the exact measurement, but i was about 1.25 turns back and was surprised there was a slight gap.

i did not drill oil holes in the McMaster Carr bushing as my gear did not have holes. not sure if that would have helped or not.

funny what CM said above though... the fella that let me rob parts from his chaincase up north where i was staying has a '17 winder with 10,000kms... I have now his original gear now in my chaincase and it has no play on the shaft at all. His dealer uses some polaris oil in his chaincase that he swears by, and is also a believer in keep the adjuster backed right off.

hmmmmmmmm...........

Oil holes would have helped I suspect.

Polaris chain lube is really good stuff, or at least it always used to be. It was always loaded with moly which is great for chains and gearboxes. You had to shake it well before using as the moly would settle to the bottom.

In fact I think I'll get me some for this change. I can't stand the smell of the 75-90 Valvoline synthetic gear lube when the case gets hot and it starts venting. Might be worse than two-stroke smoke. LOL! Seems like any of the factory chain lubes do not smell when they vent like the regular gear lubes do.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Oil holes would have helped I suspect.

Polaris chain lube is really good stuff, or at least it always used to be. It was always loaded with moly which is great for chains and gearboxes. You had to shake it well before using as the moly would settle to the bottom.

In fact I think I'll get me some for this change. I can't stand the smell of the 75-90 Valvoline synthetic gear lube when the case gets hot and it starts venting. Might be worse than two-stroke smoke. LOL! Seems like any of the factory chain lubes do not smell when they vent like the regular gear lubes do.

Sulfur!

 

[GodSpeedSWE]

Also keep in mind the chain is 15mm wide and the lower gear is 13mm. Some float in other words.

I added an extra original shim behind the top gear. Needed to be taken down 0.3mm. Now theres no axial play at all. Will try this and evaluate.

 

[number1kyster]

Don’t you get your panties in a bunch, if you were having bushing issues before, this bushing isn’t going to help solve your problems, in fact no bushing is going to help.
It’s not a bushing material issue, OCD got 10k miles out of one bushing!

My stock bushing made it 1,500 miles. I'm hopeful that the McMaster bushing lasts at least that long.

 

[ClutchMaster]

My stock bushing made it 1,500 miles. I'm hopeful that the McMaster bushing lasts at least that long.

If you have holes in the gear drill them through, if not I don’t think that’s a huge factor. More importantly do what mike said and make sure your bolt has 1/8” clearance between it and the adjuster. Overfill with 14~16oz of oil. If your chain isn’t new then it really shouldn’t need adjustment for 1.5k~2k miles. Resist the temptation to tighten it mid season. I have asked a lot of guys who smoke bushings and there’s a trend that they are tightening the chain mid season. Guys who have good bushing life are leaving it alone for the season. It’s extremely difficult to tell if you have a gap without the case apart.
I’m also running this bushing, so we shall see.

 

[number1kyster]

If you have holes in the gear drill them through, if not I don’t think that’s a huge factor. More importantly do what mike said and make sure your bolt has 1/8” clearance between it and the adjuster. Overfill with 14~16oz of oil. If your chain isn’t new then it really shouldn’t need adjustment for 1.5k~2k miles. Resist the temptation to tighten it mid season. I have asked a lot of guys who smoke bushings and there’s a trend that they are tightening the chain mid season. Guys who have good bushing life are leaving it alone for the season. It’s extremely difficult to tell if you have a gap without the case apart.
I’m also running this bushing, so we shall see.

I adjusted the chain with the cover off. I tightened the bolt until it was touching the tensioner, but not applying pressure to it if that makes sense. Then I added 16 ounces of chain lube. I also drilled out the 3 holes in the bushing.

Last season I ran it tighter than spec. I'll be pulling the cover at the end of the season and I'll report my findings.

 

[vodoo child]

Oil holes would have helped I suspect.

Polaris chain lube is really good stuff, or at least it always used to be. It was always loaded with moly which is great for chains and gearboxes. You had to shake it well before using as the moly would settle to the bottom.

In fact I think I'll get me some for this change. I can't stand the smell of the 75-90 Valvoline synthetic gear lube when the case gets hot and it starts venting. Might be worse than two-stroke smoke. LOL! Seems like any of the factory chain lubes do not smell when they vent like the regular gear lubes do.

Thanks for this post Mike, I normally run the Yamaha 75/90 synthetic drive shaft lube in my chain case but used all of the bottle last year. So I put 15 oz's. of Yamaha chain case oil, little black bottle in for this year. All last week out in Michigan my sled had an odd smell to it. I'll bet it was the different chain case oil. Never had that smell using the syn. shaft oil! I also set the chain tensioner 1 1/2 out after touching the roller bracket!

 

[SumpBuster]

Excell has Yam and Poo, and this is what they told me to use. 2nd pic is new bushing, third is the original with 2100 miles on. Showing some coating wear, but no issue. New bushing probably looks like new because THERE'S NO STINKING SNOW!!!!

 

[Byam]

I adjusted the chain with the cover off. I tightened the bolt until it was touching the tensioner, but not applying pressure to it if that makes sense. Then I added 16 ounces of chain lube. I also drilled out the 3 holes in the bushing.

Last season I ran it tighter than spec. I'll be pulling the cover at the end of the season and I'll report my findings.

This is too tight!

 

[number1kyster]

I forgot to write that I backed it off the 1-1/2 turns after that.

I'm not pulling the cover to check it now. We are having a crappy winter so far. I've put 35 miles on the new bushing. I'll check it in the spring.

 

[ClutchMaster]

View attachment 152620 View attachment 152621

View attachment 152622
Excell has Yam and Poo, and this is what they told me to use. 2nd pic is new bushing, third is the original with 2100 miles on. Showing some coating wear, but no issue. New bushing probably looks like new because THERE'S NO STINKING SNOW!!!!

SB,
Just an FYI that bronze bushing your using is the oilite bushing, it’s much softer than the 660 bearing. The 660 is much denser material. I just see no need to run an oilite bearing in a lubricated chain case.