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upper gear bushing

Did we all Agree to bury the sight glass with chain case oil? 16oz ?
That seems to be the trend lately. I'm really not sure how oil level helps with the bushing issue but I guess it can't hurt. I don't believe it's a lubrication problem.
 

That seems to be the trend lately. I'm really not sure how oil level helps with the bushing issue but I guess it can't hurt. I don't believe it's a lubrication problem.

Thanks! And I hear ya. Just trying to do whatever I can to preserve the bushing. I have a bronze one in now, so we’ll see how it holds up.
 
When this bushing starts to go bad what happens? Just a bad vibration? Is there a way to know when it starts to go bad without tearing the case apart?
 
When this bushing starts to go bad what happens? Just a bad vibration? Is there a way to know when it starts to go bad without tearing the case apart?


Perhaps when it comes out of gear driving down the trail you'll know, and at that point its too late. Take it apart!

I took my case apart to change oil and found the bushing in my 22 tooth top gear toast. I put back in a brand new 21 tooth stock gear as I do no top end speeds on the ice anyway. I was running my chain too tight last season just like Clutchmaster said. Year before I was running it looser and went over 2000 miles when bushing stayed new. Last season I ran tighter and toasted that bushing in 1700 miles.
 
Perhaps when it comes out of gear driving down the trail you'll know, and at that point its too late. Take it apart!

I took my case apart to change oil and found the bushing in my 22 tooth top gear toast. I put back in a brand new 21 tooth stock gear as I do no top end speeds on the ice anyway. I was running my chain too tight last season just like Clutchmaster said. Year before I was running it looser and went over 2000 miles when bushing stayed new. Last season I ran tighter and toasted that bushing in 1700 miles.

Are you running your chain to 1.5 turns out after turning in as tight as you can with your fingers or 1.5 turns out from where you start to feel the spring resistance on the tensioner bolt while threading it in?
 
Are you running your chain to 1.5 turns out after turning in as tight as you can with your fingers or 1.5 turns out from where you start to feel the spring resistance on the tensioner bolt while threading it in?

Last season I turned as tight as I could by hand on the 22T and backed it off 1 turn. It was too tight there and roasted the bushing. Tensioner was basically right against the bolt there with no clearance. Quite different than doing that with a 21 tooth setup. The 22 setup seems to be more elastic or stretches more if that makes sense vs. the 21 when tightning by hand or fingers, so it also ends up tighter doing it that way.
 
Last season I turned as tight as I could by hand on the 22T and backed it off 1 turn. It was too tight there and roasted the bushing. Tensioner was basically right against the bolt there with no clearance. Quite different than doing that with a 21 tooth setup. The 22 setup seems to be more elastic or stretches more if that makes sense vs. the 21 when tightning by hand or fingers, so it also ends up tighter doing it that way.

OK, I am asking because I set the tension in my Viper to 1.5 turns out from when I started to feel some resistance on the bolt while threading it in, not from fully finger tight (I have 21/41 gearing). I just rode it 250 miles and when I decelerate, I can hear a noise in the chaincase area and I can't remember if that is normal. I am wondering if I have it set too loose now.

Do you think the correct way would be to tighten finger tight and then 1.5 turns out instead of the way I did it as explained above?
 
OK, I am asking because I set the tension in my Viper to 1.5 turns out from when I started to feel some resistance on the bolt while threading it in, not from fully finger tight (I have 21/41 gearing). I just rode it 250 miles and when I decelerate, I can hear a noise in the chaincase area and I can't remember if that is normal. I am wondering if I have it set too loose now.

Do you think the correct way would be to tighten finger tight and then 1.5 turns out instead of the way I did it as explained above?

I would probably give it 1/2~ 5/8 a turn in so it’s not rubbing.
If you have the 21 top gear it seems almost impossible to not rub with the recommended setting. There’s about 3/4 of a turn window for the proper tension. Dam AC engineering!
 
I would probably give it 1/2~ 5/8 a turn in so it’s not rubbing.
If you have the 21 top gear it seems almost impossible to not rub with the recommended setting. There’s about 3/4 of a turn window for the proper tension. Dam AC engineering!
Very true
 
Perhaps when it comes out of gear driving down the trail you'll know, and at that point its too late. Take it apart!

I took my case apart to change oil and found the bushing in my 22 tooth top gear toast. I put back in a brand new 21 tooth stock gear as I do no top end speeds on the ice anyway. I was running my chain too tight last season just like Clutchmaster said. Year before I was running it looser and went over 2000 miles when bushing stayed new. Last season I ran tighter and toasted that bushing in 1700 miles.

I had mine apart 6 weeks ago and didn't notice the bushing being bad, the dealer had the chain tension out 2 3/4 turns, when i put it back together i welded the screws for the tensioner and backed it off 1 3/4 turns. Is that still too tight? i have 3000 miles on my 19 srx.

there are 2 part numbers for the top gear how am i to know which one i need? My sled is stock
8KC-E769A-11-00 or
8KC-E769A-41-00
 
Those looking to fill the chaincase all the way on the sight glass. I can tell you from personal experience that anymore than 3/4 way it starts to spit it out the breather tube slowly on the top back side.
 
I had mine apart 6 weeks ago and didn't notice the bushing being bad, the dealer had the chain tension out 2 3/4 turns, when i put it back together i welded the screws for the tensioner and backed it off 1 3/4 turns. Is that still too tight? i have 3000 miles on my 19 srx.

there are 2 part numbers for the top gear how am i to know which one i need? My sled is stock
8KC-E769A-11-00 or
8KC-E769A-41-00
I think the consensus on chain adjustment seems to be to tighten finger tight and then back out 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 turns. Put in 14-16 oz. of oil.
 
Hello,
I just went through my chaincase, upper bushing was worn, not terrible, but wobbled on shaft. I replaced with the 660 McMaster bushing. Much tighter on shaft once relieved a bit to fit. I also did not trim width as with the slight overhang the washers still fit with clip installed. All seems much better now!
As for chain tension, I tightened adjuster to ‘finger tight’ (subjective I know), then back it off 1.5 turns. I now find that the tip of the adjuster is now about 1/8 of an inch from tensioner bracket (see pic below), is this what most are ending up with? Or should it still touching tensioner no matter how many turns out? Maybe this distance is what we should be specifically setting, as it would eliminate the ‘subjective’ finger tight rule?
 

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I tighten my adjuster finger tight then loosen 8 flats on bolt. Just changed my original upper gear at 5000 miles. 2 bottles of yamaha gear lube is above site glass window. Been running like that since new.
 


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