upper gear bushing

[rbell14]

Hello,
I just went through my chaincase, upper bushing was worn, not terrible, but wobbled on shaft. I replaced with the 660 McMaster bushing. Much tighter on shaft once relieved a bit to fit. I also did not trim width as with the slight overhang the washers still fit with clip installed. All seems much better now!
As for chain tension, I tightened adjuster to ‘finger tight’ (subjective I know), then back it off 1.5 turns. I now find that the tip of the adjuster is now about 1/8 of an inch from tensioner bracket (see pic below), is this what most are ending up with? Or should it still touching tensioner no matter how many turns out? Maybe this distance is what we should be specifically setting, as it would eliminate the ‘subjective’ finger tight rule?

Interesting picture. When I back mine off 1.5 turns it feels like a lot but I’ve always run it that way and no issue yet at 7,000 miles on my Viper. (I know SW is having different issues)

 

[Turboflash]

Hello,
I just went through my chaincase, upper bushing was worn, not terrible, but wobbled on shaft. I replaced with the 660 McMaster bushing. Much tighter on shaft once relieved a bit to fit. I also did not trim width as with the slight overhang the washers still fit with clip installed. All seems much better now!
As for chain tension, I tightened adjuster to ‘finger tight’ (subjective I know), then back it off 1.5 turns. I now find that the tip of the adjuster is now about 1/8 of an inch from tensioner bracket (see pic below), is this what most are ending up with? Or should it still touching tensioner no matter how many turns out? Maybe this distance is what we should be specifically setting, as it would eliminate the ‘subjective’ finger tight rule?

IMO we WANT there to be some gap between the end of the bolt and the tensioner. The idea is that the spring on the tensioner keeps the roller in contact with chain. Remember the chain is sometimes loose on the tensioner side and sometimes tight on tensioner side depending on if you are accelerating or decelerating. We need the roller to be able to move. If it can't, then the chain is too tight and will destroy the bushing in top gear.
Remember chain will stretch, especially when new so checking the chain often is a good idea. It might be nice to be able to set the gap you reference but of course once you put the chain case together you can't do it. So, for now all we have is what the manual calls out - tighten finger tight, then back off 1-1/2 turns. 14-16 oz. of oil.

 

[snow_rider]

Ok great, I just wanted to make sure a gap there was normal and expected with the 1.5 turns out. And, yes with it together you can’t check/set gap, I was thinking more when we have them apart (since it looks like it is an annual thing) a specific gap could be set.

Thanks for the responses!

Steve

 

[jonlafon1]

Those looking to fill the chaincase all the way on the sight glass. I can tell you from personal experience that anymore than 3/4 way it starts to spit it out the breather tube slowly on the top back side.

I like to leave just a sliver on the top of site glass for this reason. I have been doing this for 7500 miles and seeing none come out breather. But I have heard of this.

 

[Turboflash]

Gotta watch that. The breather tube is pretty close to the exhaust tube connecting the exhaust manifold to the turbo. We don't want oil mist or liquid oil coming out of the breather onto that hot exhaust pipe!!!
Thanks for bring this up Jafo1970. Important point.

 

[cannondale27]

Gotta watch that. The breather tube is pretty close to the exhaust tube connecting the exhaust manifold to the turbo. We don't want oil mist or liquid oil coming out of the breather onto that hot exhaust pipe!!!
Thanks for bring this up Jafo1970. Important point.

There is a checkball in there. Spring loaded but I have found it stuck in open position more times than not. Needs to be cleaned when doing chaincase.

 

[fatchance]

Clutchmaster, how is the McMaster Carr bushing holding up? Curious as to how many guys put the new gear in with the 3 oil holes and have gotten a look at them after putting some miles on.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Well, that didnt last long...

approx 800 kms on my mcmaster carr bushing and its toast.

Unfortunately for me it happened on a back pack trip. The gear let go at top speed and by the time it stopped free-wheeling, the reverse gear and gear had grinded to bad, they would no longer mesh. So i am in for a top gear, reverse gear, and 2 reverse fork pads.

chain tension 1.25 turns, 16oz amsoil chaincase oil.

Bushing details: Part 6381K563 - Multipurpose SAE 660 leaded bronze sleeve bearing for 1" shaft diameter.


Back to the drawing board!

 

[fatchance]

Well, that didnt last long...

approx 800 kms on my mcmaster carr bushing and its toast.

Unfortunately for me it happened on a back pack trip. The gear let go at top speed and by the time it stopped free-wheeling, the reverse gear and gear had grinded to bad, they would no longer mesh. So i am in for a top gear, reverse gear, and 2 reverse fork pads.

chain tension 1.25 turns, 16oz amsoil chaincase oil.

Bushing details: Part 6381K563 - Multipurpose SAE 660 leaded bronze sleeve bearing for 1" shaft diameter.


Back to the drawing board!

Oh Baby, sorry to hear that! I guess those Taylor and Venom gears aren't such a bad idea!

 

[cannondale27]

We need to figure out how to get drive and Jackshaft perfectly in line and parallel. Only then will it last.

 

[PowderFalcon]

We need to figure out how to get drive and Jackshaft perfectly in line and parallel. Only then will it last.

some are putting shims behind the top gear...

 

[cannondale27]

some are putting shims behind the top gear...

That’s a very good place to start and easy.

 

[74Nitro]

some are putting shims behind the top gear...

Not for that reason however.

 

[cannondale27]

Not for that reason however.

For better forward engagement of the tiny gear right? Well you may be doing two things at once.

 

[number1kyster]

Well, that didnt last long...

approx 800 kms on my mcmaster carr bushing and its toast.

Unfortunately for me it happened on a back pack trip. The gear let go at top speed and by the time it stopped free-wheeling, the reverse gear and gear had grinded to bad, they would no longer mesh. So i am in for a top gear, reverse gear, and 2 reverse fork pads.

chain tension 1.25 turns, 16oz amsoil chaincase oil.

Bushing details: Part 6381K563 - Multipurpose SAE 660 leaded bronze sleeve bearing for 1" shaft diameter.


Back to the drawing board!

That is not what I wanted to hear. I put the same bushing in my sled.