ClutchMaster
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Do you have another bushing you could recommend?
I think the AA-1110-1 oil lite bushing is good for 2000 psi load on spec sheet.
I have no expertise in this field.......just tryingvto get through a season without a gear change.......average 4000 miles a season
The mcmaster bushing I posted is 4500 psi rated. A better choice imo. A tight fit is beneficial because of increased surface area for oil film. these bushings need to be fitted to the shaft so fit can be controlled.
STAIN
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You guys should read the entire thread.
ordered from bronzebushings.com
AA-1110-1 | Oil Impregnated Bronze Sleeve | 1 ID x 1-1/8 OD x 1 OAL
101493 $3.39
Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1
$3.39
ordered from bronzebushings.com
AA-1110-1 | Oil Impregnated Bronze Sleeve | 1 ID x 1-1/8 OD x 1 OAL
101493 $3.39
Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1
$3.39
yamamarc
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Every 2000miles is absolutely ridiculous... So every trip i should be tearing my chaincase apart and throwing out my top gear?
If you're only getting 2000 miles, something else is wrong. Check your alignment, bottom gear to top gear. I bet its offset. Shim top gear out so they are aligned.
Last season and this season my top gear was finished at 3000km!
I have chaincase apart and checked for runout end play and that all shafts were square to each other!!! I put a dial on every shaft
Top shaft had 0 end play with .002 run out
Bottom shaft 0end play and .005 runout but some of that could be imperfections in the spline (no smooth surface to sit dial on!)
I also put a light load on my secondary with a ratchet strap to see if there was any movement.
I end up with .080 side play on chaincase side. (Haven't checked driveshaft bearing wear yet so the movement may be worn driveshaft).
One thing I never checked was gear to gear alignment like you mentioned!! Will definitely check this next
Last edited:
Turboflash
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Had to put a .030" shim behind my top gear to get it perfectly in line with bottom gear. Still had room for outside factory washer and snap ring.
Turboflash
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Here's my 21T top gear after 2200 miles on Stage 4. Bushing and gear still look really good. Could almost run it another 2200, but I won't. LOL
Attachments
NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
Last season and this season my top gear was finished at 3000km!
I have chaincase apart and checked for runout end play and that all shafts were square to each other!!! I put a dial on every shaft
Top shaft had 0 end play with .002 run out
Bottom shaft 0end play and .005 runout but some of that could be imperfections in the spline (no smooth surface to sit dial on!)
I also put a light load on my secondary with a ratchet strap to see if there was any movement.
I end up with .080 side play on chaincase side. (Haven't checked driveshaft bearing wear yet so the movement may be worn driveshaft).
One thing I never checked was gear to gear alignment like you mentioned!! Will definitely check this next
Gear alignment don't forget top is 15w and bottom 13w so there is some room for self adjusting. Some have gone to a 15w bottom as well .
KnappAttack
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Here's my 21T top gear after 2200 miles on Stage 4. Bushing and gear still look really good. Could almost run it another 2200, but I won't. LOL
I would! Looks awesome.
ClutchMaster
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Here's my 21T top gear after 2200 miles on Stage 4. Bushing and gear still look really good. Could almost run it another 2200, but I won't. LOL
Now that’s what talking about right there!
No need for $300 bushings!
little extra oil and loose chain makes a world of difference.
ClutchMaster
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Gear alignment don't forget top is 15w and bottom 13w so there is some room for self adjusting. Some have gone to a 15w bottom as well .
what’s the sense of alignment with a 13 wide bottom sprocket? The chain floats either direction down there so it’s moot. Probably made that way for a reason.
ClutchMaster
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Had to put a .030" shim behind my top gear to get it perfectly in line with bottom gear. Still had room for outside factory washer and snap ring.
Actually I do see a benefit to doing this but alignment isn’t the reason. Tightening the side clearance on the gear would help to keep a bit more oil inside the bushing. Oil being forced through the holes wouldn’t escape as easily out of the sides of the bushing, creating a bit of oil pressure if you will.
hold on I gotta kill the brain cell that came up with that one........
got’em
NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
That's basically what I was sayingwhat’s the sense of alignment with a 13 wide bottom sprocket? The chain floats either direction down there so it’s moot. Probably made that way for a reason.
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
I have been wondering if the 13 wide bottom gear could be contributing to the upper gear issue. It has always seemed lame to me that they run two different width gears on the same chain.
ClutchMaster
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That's basically what I was saying
I was in agreement with you. I should have clarified, but things were a Weee bit blurry last night!
I’m peeing green this fine morning
Last edited:
DMCTurbo
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Ulmer is selling a replacement bushing. Does anyone have experience with his?
https://shop.ulmerracing.com/Sidewi...&browse=-73647&shopBy=-26776&catalogId=-11683
https://shop.ulmerracing.com/Sidewi...&browse=-73647&shopBy=-26776&catalogId=-11683
twyztid
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Do you have another bushing you could recommend?
I think the AA-1110-1 oil lite bushing is good for 2000 psi load on spec sheet.
I have no expertise in this field.......just tryingvto get through a season without a gear change.......average 4000 miles a season
This is what I will be trying next season. ToughMet 3 TMCB161808. It has 15% Nickel content and far higher load capability than any others listed here (P Value is 20,000). I have installed one of these in a gear and it does need the bore opened up a little to fit on the shaft once it is pressed into the gear.
https://catalog.buntingbearings.com...ze-c96900-toughmet3-alloy-bearings/tmcb161808
https://www.grainger.com/product/BUNTING-BEARINGS-C96900-Cast-Bronze-41C762
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