upper gear bushing

[J & J Racing]

Yes
Bottoms are 15 wide

 

[ClutchMaster]

You can however see in the right hand picture that the teflon is starting to come off. The picture is taken from the 'good' side.

I can see no brass, maybe a scratch or two but considering some are wasting bushings at this mileage with half the horsepower is my point.

I have run 15 wide Taylor gears since procross came out in 12. It has been same chaincase since. For specs I have elevated track and turn secondary clutch as I finger tighten bolt. When it stops at finger tight I back it out between 1/8 and 1/4.

I have a few stock cats with higher mileage we’ve done this way without issue also.

I run synthetic 15/40 motor oil and fill between 3/4 sight glass to full

the Taylor gears much better than stock. They run them in the out law sleds

I’m sure they are cut slightly different on the tooth to prevent chain climb under power. Not everyone wants to spend +$500 on a chain and gears. The stock gears are proven too work at levels over 400hp.

There’s a reason yamaha specs out 1.5 turns out from finger tight. The Cats have a wear pad instead of a roller. If you over tighten the adjuster the sacrificial wear pad will wear very quickly, loosening the chain and saving the bushing.
If your having continual problems with bushing wear try using the A/C tensioner.

 

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

Let me ask a couple questions,
Why would Turboflashes bushing look brand new at 2k miles?
Why do some N/A vipers wear out bushings quickly?
With your setup everything was new and it only lasted 2k miles without a tune?
What are the two biggest variables within the chaincase?

Why would Turboflashes bushing look brand new at 2k miles? Lucky
Why do some N/A vipers wear out bushings quickly? Bad design and poor quality
With your setup everything was new and it only lasted 2k miles without a tune? Yes
What are the two biggest variables within the chaincase? I think there are 3. Oil, chain tension, and who made it.

6oo miles this year before Virus injured me.
I have been riding sleds for over 45 years. First mechanical defect crash ever for me. Actually first sledding injury period.
If I do not know how to do maintenance, I either learn from the owner manual, here, or somewhere else, or hire it out.
I adjusted my chain after last season when I changed the engine and chaincase oil. Do I adjust it by the manufacturer's tension or a little looser like I read here? Do I put in the recommended level in the site glass or a few ounces more like I read here?

Virus is 85% trail ridden, has never seen top end. Actually has never seen over 90 mph on speedo. I have learned not to push it too hard or I will blow another belt. Good thing it has 200 horse.
In my opinion, premature wear on some sleds (some N/A vipers), my Sidewinder, is because they are inconsistently built, Arctic Cat, Chinese junk. A riding partner of mine lost his bushing a week after me on his N/A Viper. Another one, thinks he may have his Sidewinder clutching right, after 3 years of trying.
Why does my Nytro with 12 000 miles have a chaincase that looks like new inside?
Why is this forum full of blown gear bushings while Yamaha marks up these Arctic Cats by 15 %, slaps a sticker on them, blows them out, and offers little to no support? I have been trying to reach Yamaha Customer Service since first week in February and it has not happened yet. But the other day their social media person says "Scott" has reached out, so maybe I have a letter coming in the mail telling me to take my broken and cracked bones and shove them up my crappy flex pipe.
I used to be a dedicated Yamaha fan. This one is my 3rd. First and last new one.

 

[J & J Racing]

I figure 500 dollars for not getting stranded is worth it. They work and don’t fail. This is how I run chain tension in cat but they do have roller in them. The piece of crap you have to spot weld the nuts in.
The older cats run a wear pad with the auto chain tensioner.
I agree they are expensive but the issues are gone at that price.
The problem with oem is they are china crap.
These gears I speak of are high quality
Just thought I would share.

 

[Turboflash]

I figure 500 dollars for not getting stranded is worth it. They work and don’t fail. This is how I run chain tension in cat but they do have roller in them. The piece of crap you have to spot weld the nuts in.
The older cats run a wear pad with the auto chain tensioner.
I agree they are expensive but the issues are gone at that price.
The problem with oem is they are china crap.
These gears I speak of are high quality
Just thought I would share.

I only wish I was lucky.
This gear bushing has a few scratches that run transverse to direction of rotation. Those happened either when I first installed it or when I was removing it. There are also minor ones that run concentric to the bushing. I would say those happened when I put sled in reverse at some point. It's the only time that gear turns on shaft. The gray coating is still there and considering this gear was run 2200 miles on a Stage 4 PEFI tune (320HP) I think it help up pretty well. I didn't install Stage 4 to putt around either if you're thinking I'm a "Sunday" driver. I ran it hard as much as conditions and safety allowed.
I also have very good traction and 21/38 gears so there is plenty of load on gears and chain.
I don't have a logical scientific explanation for why some can get thousands of trouble-free miles from the upper gear bushing and others have failures so fast. I wonder if jackshaft harmonics play a part?

 

[sledheadgeorge]

Wouldn't it be sweet to be able to adapt an Apex chain case to this chassis?
Just dreaming.

 

[ClutchMaster]

I figure 500 dollars for not getting stranded is worth it. They work and don’t fail. This is how I run chain tension in cat but they do have roller in them. The piece of crap you have to spot weld the nuts in.
The older cats run a wear pad with the auto chain tensioner.
I agree they are expensive but the issues are gone at that price.
The problem with oem is they are china crap.
These gears I speak of are high quality
Just thought I would share.

Thanks for sharing!
I was unaware they changed to the roller in the newer Tcat’s. I do know my buddy had the old ratchet tensioner and would wear the pads out rapidly. He switched to a manual tensioner and ran it fairly loose after some experiments and found the pad didn’t wear hardly at all. This is telling me That the slack side of the chain gets tighter under power. The hyvo links have a cam action because they are triangular pin shape. Under power these chains ride up in the gear slightly changing the pitch line of the chain, especially if they start getting worn.
I tried finding where they make the hyvo chain but could find nothing. They do however make the older silent chain in Japan.
I was wondering what material the bushing is in the Scott Taylor gears?
Thanks again JJ

 

[Farmer 73]

Wouldn't it be sweet to be able to adapt an Apex chain case to this chassis?
Just dreaming.

Dreams become reality!

 

[yamamarc]

I only wish I was lucky.
This gear bushing has a few scratches that run transverse to direction of rotation. Those happened either when I first installed it or when I was removing it. There are also minor ones that run concentric to the bushing. I would say those happened when I put sled in reverse at some point. It's the only time that gear turns on shaft. The gray coating is still there and considering this gear was run 2200 miles on a Stage 4 PEFI tune (320HP) I think it help up pretty well. I didn't install Stage 4 to putt around either if you're thinking I'm a "Sunday" driver. I ran it hard as much as conditions and safety allowed.
I also have very good traction and 21/38 gears so there is plenty of load on gears and chain.
I don't have a logical scientific explanation for why some can get thousands of trouble-free miles from the upper gear bushing and others have failures so fast. I wonder if jackshaft harmonics play a part?

I have another sled in my garage doing maintenance on and did end play and run out checks on his sled to compare with my measurements since his top gear bushing and driveshaft bearings were perfect after the season! Everything checked out the same as mine!
Only difference is he runs a 141xtx and I run 137
He is running 240 hurricane pm tune
And I have bundle header tunes 240 270 300(running big tune 90% of time)

I am now thinking is quality control issue from batch to batch for stock bushings?

 

[ClutchMaster]

I have another sled in my garage doing maintenance on and did end play and run out checks on his sled to compare with my measurements since his top gear bushing and driveshaft bearings were perfect after the season! Everything checked out the same as mine!
Only difference is he runs a 141xtx and I run 137
He is running 240 hurricane pm tune
And I have bundle header tunes 240 270 300(running big tune 90% of time)

I am now thinking is quality control issue from batch to batch for stock bushings?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Holly Chit I’m done you guys have fun with your theory’s

 

[yamamarc]

You drink too much

 

[J & J Racing]

They are junk and that is the problem exactly. China has no quality control. It’s the crap in the chaincase I believe.
I am not a huge fan of the chaincase either but with quality stuff in it the problems go away.
I have stated before I wish they had diamond drive.
It’s light and the failure rate was near zero
Had a buddy with z1 turbo on stock clutches and stock diamond drive running mid 130s in 660. Mine ran 137 mph in 1000 ft on snow track.

The point is that when there is good stuff in the chaincase it works.

 

[ClutchMaster]

You drink too much

You and NYTurbo need to put the Hurricane roller bearing in and give that a try. Make sure you have the chain nice and tight!

 

[fatchance]

I only wish I was lucky.
This gear bushing has a few scratches that run transverse to direction of rotation. Those happened either when I first installed it or when I was removing it. There are also minor ones that run concentric to the bushing. I would say those happened when I put sled in reverse at some point. It's the only time that gear turns on shaft. The gray coating is still there and considering this gear was run 2200 miles on a Stage 4 PEFI tune (320HP) I think it help up pretty well. I didn't install Stage 4 to putt around either if you're thinking I'm a "Sunday" driver. I ran it hard as much as conditions and safety allowed.
I also have very good traction and 21/38 gears so there is plenty of load on gears and chain.
I don't have a logical scientific explanation for why some can get thousands of trouble-free miles from the upper gear bushing and others have failures so fast. I wonder if jackshaft harmonics play a part?

The scratches on the bushing are from guys putting calipers to them to determine which bushings are "tight" I ordered 2 top gears this year and they both came with these marks on them brand new. Either that or they are specing them after they are manufactured and leaving these marks.