Valve check?

[cannondale27]

 

[cannondale27]

Canandale27, I am sorry I angered you and can see that I was insensitive. I have much respect for you. Just like that it has been brought into public domain. As with other things that you have brought to light this process will be shared with others. I will shut up.

Dont want or need a sorry. Back it up with facts. What Stain said is not possible to do without great risk. If its possible at all need to know how. Till you say how I dont want to hear about it.

 

[DVW]

Dont want or need a sorry. Back it up with facts. What Stain said is not possible to do without great risk. If its possible at all need to know how. Till you say how I dont want to hear about it.

I can now share the details on how Lighthouse Motor Sports made sure the tensioner did not move when removing the cams. I first had to ask them permission out of respect for them. They opposed the tensioner spring by wiring up the cam sprocket (see photo). In the middle of the two strand wire loop was a long bolt that they used to twist the wire. The twisted wire acted as a turnbuckle. This retaining method allowed them to remove the cam without moving the tensioner or the sprocket. All this is detail compared to the idea of making sure the tensioner did not move when removing cams. That idea came from a member of this forum after being spurred on by me saying it was possible. This all happened last night but then again I said it was possible seven months ago.

 

[cannondale27]

View attachment 142490
I can now share the details on how Lighthouse Motor Sports made sure the tensioner did not move when removing the cams. I first had to ask them permission out of respect for them. They opposed the tensioner spring by wiring up the cam sprocket (see photo). In the middle of the two strand wire loop was a long bolt that they used to twist the wire. The twisted wire acted as a turnbuckle. This retaining method allowed them to remove the cam without moving the tensioner or the sprocket. All this is detail compared to the idea of making sure the tensioner did not move when removing cams. That idea came from a member of this forum after being spurred on by me saying it was possible. This all happened last night but then again I said it was possible seven months ago.

You have my Apologies DVW. You stepped up. That sure looks like it would work and would save a ton of time. Sorry and Thank You!

 

[cannondale27]

And thank Lighthouse Motorsports. I learned something today.

 

[Froggy]

Wow, does that look like a real time saver to me, but you know what isn't a real time saver is when after shimming 8 out of 12 valves to get to the top end of the clearance spec and then finding out that 2 valves need a little extra shimming for a perfectly set engine and you drop one of those little buggers down the oil drain hole. Long story short, pulled the head and found the shim stuck on the edge of the head gasket. My 2016 top end looks a little different than the previous models.
As a side note for all the hard starting my dealer informed me that they found an engine that had the stub shaft assembly that slipped out of alignment under warranty and this caused the engine to be very hard to start and then eventually not start at all. There are punch marks on the spline inside that have to line up with a punch mark on the teeth on the outside so that the firing is at the right time. Pulled mine out to check as to their recommendation and mine was good but was made differently.

 

[cannondale27]

Wow, does that look like a real time saver to me, but you know what isn't a real time saver is when after shimming 8 out of 12 valves to get to the top end of the clearance spec and then finding out that 2 valves need a little extra shimming for a perfectly set engine and you drop one of those little buggers down the oil drain hole. Long story short, pulled the head and found the shim stuck on the edge of the head gasket. My 2016 top end looks a little different than the previous models.
As a side note for all the hard starting my dealer informed me that they found an engine that had the stub shaft assembly that slipped out of alignment under warranty and this caused the engine to be very hard to start and then eventually not start at all. There are punch marks on the spline inside that have to line up with a punch mark on the teeth on the outside so that the firing is at the right time. Pulled mine out to check as to their recommendation and mine was good but was made differently.

Oh no! I feel your pain. Glad you found it though. My dealer went through same thing with out of time Stubshaft. TA Motorsports .

 

[cannondale27]

Wow, does that look like a real time saver to me, but you know what isn't a real time saver is when after shimming 8 out of 12 valves to get to the top end of the clearance spec and then finding out that 2 valves need a little extra shimming for a perfectly set engine and you drop one of those little buggers down the oil drain hole. Long story short, pulled the head and found the shim stuck on the edge of the head gasket. My 2016 top end looks a little different than the previous models.
As a side note for all the hard starting my dealer informed me that they found an engine that had the stub shaft assembly that slipped out of alignment under warranty and this caused the engine to be very hard to start and then eventually not start at all. There are punch marks on the spline inside that have to line up with a punch mark on the teeth on the outside so that the firing is at the right time. Pulled mine out to check as to their recommendation and mine was good but was made differently.

How far out were yours and which ones?

 

[Froggy]

How far out were yours and which ones?

Cannondale, All the intake valves were in spec from .16mm (.0062") to .21mm (.008") with # 1 cyl (pto) being the tightest. I did raise up the .16mm to .19mm. 4 of the exhaust valves were under spec with # 1 cyl the tightest at less than .04mm (.0015") as I do not have feeler gauges that are smaller and the other 3 tight exhaust valves were less than.15mm (.006"). I believe that the #1 cyl valve was touching as I had to go from a 192 to a 165 to get .25mm gap. Waiting for my head gasket to show up so I can slap her back together and have a proper running machine for the year. Wish me luck, told my co-workers how happy I am that I don't own a 2 stroke that needs to be worked on all the time, I got a few laughs out of that one.

 

[cannondale27]

Cannondale, All the intake valves were in spec from .16mm (.0062") to .21mm (.008") with # 1 cyl (pto) being the tightest. I did raise up the .16mm to .19mm. 4 of the exhaust valves were under spec with # 1 cyl the tightest at less than .04mm (.0015") as I do not have feeler gauges that are smaller and the other 3 tight exhaust valves were less than.15mm (.006"). I believe that the #1 cyl valve was touching as I had to go from a 192 to a 165 to get .25mm gap. Waiting for my head gasket to show up so I can slap her back together and have a proper running machine for the year. Wish me luck, told my co-workers how happy I am that I don't own a 2 stroke that needs to be worked on all the time, I got a few laughs out of that one.

I wish you luck for sure. Alot of work you did there. Definitly needed it. Seems to be same valves getting tight on all our motors. Doesnt make sense. Yea this sucks.

 

[Froggy]

It's alive It's alive, I was nervous to fire it up because the Yamaha dealer that I deal with said that it could make some noise until the cam chain tensioner ratcheted out and got loaded with oil. So I turned it over 3-4 times with the kill switch off to hopefully prime the oil pump and get the tensioner loaded. I then cycled the key switch with the kill switch on to prime the fuel line and she fired up on the first attempt with no strange noises and seems a lot better than before. Stays running even when not fully warmed up and I can blip the throttle during warm up which was impossible last winter. I'll be checking the compression after the first ride which could be sooner than usual going by the snow we have now and the forecast to come. If it wasn't for this site I would never fixed this myself and I would have gotten a nice bill from my dealer. Thanks so much to all the TY people here and wow do I ever love the new T-shirts. My Dad had a 78 SRX 440 when they first came out. I'll be ordering a couple for sure.

 

[cannondale27]

Good news! I still havent got mine back together. Shock thing has taken all my time and energy. Nervous for sure. Had to be a huge relief for you!

 

[PAvector]

Four out of six exhaust valves are tight on mine. As low as .002”.
12~13k miles.
I’ll be fixing this along with the torn up starter, idle gear, stator and stator wheel.
Very disappointed.

 

[cannondale27]

Four out of six exhaust valves are tight on mine. As low as .002”.
12~13k miles.
I’ll be fixing this along with the torn up starter, idle gear, stator and stator wheel.
Very disappointed.

Sorry to hear that. You try Yamaha? If you can wait till I am ready to sell my flywheel,idler and stator.

 

[cannondale27]

Four out of six exhaust valves are tight on mine. As low as .002”.
12~13k miles.
I’ll be fixing this along with the torn up starter, idle gear, stator and stator wheel.
Very disappointed.

Why is #5 good on 3 motors now? This has to be a factory screw up.