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Viper Ltx Se clutch help/opinions

Just suspicion but when loading the tip rather than the heels, I doubt you'll be able to run the same amount of weight, more or less weight I'm not sure but for me I like to start light and add weight if needed. One thing to make sure you do when tuning, be sure your sled is at operating temp (ex: 160 degree engine temp) and ride it long enough so that the clutches and belt are heat soaked so you know you're adjusting properly for how the sled is going to be running. Basically I'm saying don't ride the sled up and down the field once and make adjustments. I'm on my sled for atleast 10 mins doing different riding in between making clutch changes because the sled acts a bit differently once everything is at operating temp.
 

Do you happen to have the part numbers for the washers for the secondary? Or maybe the thickness of them?
 
I just some from a hardware store.
 
Hey guys, just thought I would throw a few questions out there for some suggestions and opinions, I have a 2014 Viper Ltx Se, has the following mods:
168 studs
4th rear wheel kit
Hindle full exhaust, with power commander and air box mod (hurricane performance)

What I'm having an issue with is the clutching, I can't wrap my head around it... I've got a "kit" on it, but cannot for the life of me get it dialed in properly, have tried talking to the vendor, has suggested some things but still is not running the way it should to me... Clutch setup is

Supertip weights, heel has 1 tungsten and 5 washers, no washers in middle or tip, had to run that many washers in heel to overcome initial over rev. Has the blue silver blue Yamaha spring

Secondary has a 51/43 helix with the white spring wrapped at 6-2 also am running the 8jp belt

Both clutches are spotless, went all threw them and checked for wear in bushings etc and found none, no excessive belt dust or anything

Now my issues:

#1 I cannot seem to get the Rpms where they should be, out of the hole I'm seeing roughly 9100, then drops off to around 8400, and will climb back up to anywhere from 8600-8800 rpm. There doesn't seem to be a consistant rpm that it will pull.

#2 on full shift out, the belt will only come up to roughly 5/8" below the edge of the primary... This seems low compared to where my srx ran. I ran it on gps on the weekend and the most i saw was 94mph.

Now I've been doing some reading on here and a lot of guys are switching to the 8dn belt... Wondering what your guys opinions are on that..... Also looking for any insight into the clutching... I had my srx dialed in but cannot get this dam thing right,

Thanks in advance for any help!
If you want to keep that driven clutch spring you need a steeper angle on the first number of your helix to drop the rpm out of the hole. I would try smaller rollers in the drive clutch first.
 
Silver rocket,

I'm going to go with a different primary spring and try it, ordered it today hopefully in tomorrow and I'll go out and test it
 
That's what I ordered, got that spring and gonna switch to the 8dn and go from there, then will start moving weights around depending on rpm
 
I just picked up my OPO spring this afternoon. I ordered it last week. Im still thinking heavy on getting some magna force weights. I know the COC setup up would work great if I could get a straight shift. Oh well no snow around here to test anymore nothing but ice and dirt. :(
Maybe by next year I will get it figured out and have a sled that I love to drive instead of like to drive.

I would also love to try a white secondary spring just to see what happens.
 
I loaned cannondale my magnaforce weights to try out and he ended up buying them from me, they're a fairly aggressive profile, but fully, and very easily adjustable so you can set them up for exactly what u want
 


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