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Viper suspension adjustment

henryb1965

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2015
Messages
8
Age
59
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2008 Yamaha Nytro
Need help adjusting suspension on 2015 Viper I bought. Its too light on the skis and I am having trouble going around bends as there is not enough weight on front....any ideas? Thx.
 

Tighten up limiter straps put 6" on outside on tuner skis.Viper Frequently Asked Questions
 
Witch model do you have. I tightened limiter strap one notch and put 6" and 4" carbides on and still have a ton of push. I thought it was better but today was my first ride this year and just realized how bad it was. I'm hoping someone will chime in with a better answer. I maybe have to much pressure on front.
 
I have the RTX-DX model.............129" track.
 
I have a 2015 RTX-DX 129" too and it pushes in the corners. More pre-load on the front shock springs will help.

I'd like to know how to make mine ride more plush, very back is harsh, has no set in or sag when I sit on it. On the softest #1 setting on the spring blocks.
 
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Witch model do you have. I tightened limiter strap one notch and put 6" and 4" carbides on and still have a ton of push. I thought it was better but today was my first ride this year and just realized how bad it was. I'm hoping someone will chime in with a better answer. I maybe have to much pressure on front.
Here are a couple of suggestions. These sorts of issues can be caused by many factors, so treat this as a starting point.
1 Rear Sag- Adjust the rear sag of the machine
1a Attach a piece of tape on the rear bumper and make a line on it
2. On a level surface, lift and extend the rear of the machine a few times and let the sled rest
2a. Now measure the distance from the floor to your tape mark and write it down
3. With a full tank of gas and you dressed in your sled clothes and helmet get on the sled and into your riding position and have someone measure the distance from the floor to the tape mark.
4. You want 2.0” to 3.0” of difference between the two numbers
5. Depending on the difference, if it is greater than 3.0” turn the recoil spring adjuster one position thicker, or adjust the spring adjuster thinner if your not getting to 2.0”. Adjust both adjusters on the sled to the same thickness. (Your tool kit comes with the socket to do this with the screwdriver that comes in the kit, or of course a ratchet and socket will work as well.
5a. Note only turn one position at a time and adjust both sides before measuring or adjusting again
5b. It is NOT recommended to go from the thinnest position to the thickest position in one turn.
6. My weight is 250 lbs and my Viper is adjusted to the thickest position as a point or reference. If your weight is greater and you cannot get the right sag you can upgrade the recoil spring.
7. This is the first critical adjustment to make before doing anything else
9. Runner/carbide- Get rid of the stock runners/carbides, they are good for the first 50 mile. I run Stud Boy shaper bars on my 2016 Yamaha Viper LTX 6.0” on the INSIDE of the skis and 4.0” round bars on the OUTSIDE of the ski. (Lots of chatter on the forum about this and what runner goes where)
10. Front Socks- Because this is a used sled you really don’t know what the past owner adjusted
10a. Take the weight off the front of the machine, and I would loosen the spring coils on the shocks until you can move them freely
10b. Hand tighten the spring collar until the spring no longer moves up and down
10c. Now tighten the spring collar 3 full rotations and this is your starting position.
11. Ride the sled and see how it performs. Based on your weight you may need to adjust the pressure on the skis
11a. Take it slow and adjust a turn at a time and ride again of course adjusting both sides equally.
12. Other things to consider, stock shocks are not really good quality. One of the best improvements I made is buying a pair of Elka Shocks. I purchased the Stage 2’s. The ride difference and cornering was amazing.
Start with the rear sag and normalizing the spring adjustment as a starting point, upgraded carbides will help and shocks will blow your mind away. Good luck ☘️
 
Hi Joe,

My '15 RTX-DX has NO STATIC SAG nor RIDER SAG with me on it. I'm 190 lbs without gear. I was wondering why it felt so harsh on small stutter.
What can I do to correct that? Different softer mouse trap springs or the BOP adjuster relocation?
 
Hi Joe,

My '15 RTX-DX has NO STATIC SAG nor RIDER SAG with me on it. I'm 190 lbs without gear. I was wondering why it felt so harsh on small stutter.
What can I do to correct that? Different softer mouse trap springs or the BOP adjuster relocation?
Which rear shock do you have? 1.5in Dia or 2” Dia? I have seen both on this year and model. If 2” send it to me for a revalve ASAP you will be absolutely amazed at difference. Either way the shocks are probably due for refresh by now.
 
Hi Joe,

My '15 RTX-DX has NO STATIC SAG nor RIDER SAG with me on it. I'm 190 lbs without gear. I was wondering why it felt so harsh on small stutter.
What can I do to correct that? Different softer mouse trap springs or the BOP adjuster relocation?
Hey, so I am clear when you sit on the machine, the rear height as measured from the floor with no load on the machine is the same as when you sit on the machine? Second question if you site on the very back of the machine (not the seat) do you get some height deflection?
 
Which rear shock do you have? 1.5in Dia or 2” Dia? I have seen both on this year and model. If 2” send it to me for a revalve ASAP you will be absolutely amazed at difference. Either way the shocks are probably due for refresh by now.
cannondale, the outer diameter of the rear shock body is 1.685".

20210212_180710_resize.jpg

It has over 2000 miles on the sled now, the shocks are due for a refresh for sure but this has always ridden harsh. I was thinking I have a combo of a harsh shock calibration and too stiff springs, but wasn't sure how this should be first, reason I figured this would be a good thread to find out. Probably need to determine and resolve each one separately.

Hey, so I am clear when you sit on the machine, the rear height as measured from the floor with no load on the machine is the same as when you sit on the machine? Second question if you site on the very back of the machine (not the seat) do you get some height deflection?

You are clear. It has no static sag by itself. When you lift the back end up by the grab bar so track is off the ground and set it down gently until the track touches, when you let go to doesn't travel any further.
If I sit on it gently like I have a bad case of hemorrhoids, it doesn't move but maybe a 1/4". If I sit down normally ( in normal riding position) it sags less than 1/2".
If I kneel on the rear bumper it drops about 3".

Nothing is binding, it moves freely without the springs pre-loaded in the sliders.

I just wanted a sense check that this is not how this should be.
 

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cannondale, the outer diameter of the rear shock body is 1.685".

View attachment 159587

It has over 2000 miles on the sled now, the shocks are due for a refresh for sure but this has always ridden harsh. I was thinking I have a combo of a harsh shock calibration and too stiff springs, but wasn't sure how this should be first, reason I figured this would be a good thread to find out. Probably need to determine and resolve each one separately.



You are clear. It has no static sag by itself. When you lift the back end up by the grab bar so track is off the ground and set it down gently until the track touches, when you let go to doesn't travel any further.
If I sit on it gently like I have a bad case of hemorrhoids, it doesn't move but maybe a 1/4". If I sit down normally ( in normal riding position) it sags less than 1/2".
If I kneel on the rear bumper it drops about 3".

Nothing is binding, it moves freely without the springs pre-loaded in the sliders.

I just wanted a sense check that this is not how this should be.
Looking at the attached picture I see the adjustment cam set the the “smallest” position which means this is the least stiff position. Confirm both cams are in the same position. At 190lbs you should be seeing more drop when you measure the rear height with nothing on the machine and then when you sit on it.

Another question, when you kneel on the back of the machine and deflect it downward, then take your weight off the machine how fast does the machine bounce back? I typically like to see about 1.5 seconds from fully compressed to the sled returning to the rest position. Sorry for all the ??s.
 
Mbarryracing, did you buy the sled new or used? If used was the person you purchased the machine from a big guy, say 300+lbs or did you buy from a dealer and no idea about the previous owner? I was just thinking that maybe the recoil spring and or the shock springs are aftermarket? It is just a thought?

When I put Elka 2Stage shocks on my Viper they requested my weight to valve them correctly and to but the right springs on the shocks. If say a 150lb person was to ride my sled those shocks would be way to stiff. Cannondale27 may be on to something in his posts suggesting a revalue/servicing the rear shock. From the picture all looks normal including the rubber stop blocks.
 
Cannondale will definitely get your shocks were they need to be it will feel like a completely different machine when he's done. You might want to ask him about changing out your rear springs they were very stiff in the 2014/15 models.
 


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