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Wastegate %?


KillerSidewinder said:
Hold down top left while in psi thats how I did mine
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Ok i guess that brings it to celcius and km the other way is Fahrenheit and mph or can we just change the temp. psi?I
 
ClutchMaster said:
That’s called wastegate duty cycle percentage.
This is a percentage of on/off time the computer cycles the wastegate valve. The valve is pulsed on and off at a fairly high base frequency usually around 10 times a second. The larger amount of time the valve is turned on it blocks the pressure from leaking out of the wastegate actuator. Higher percentages create a higher boost levels. Sleds with high boost tunes will have a larger percentage of wastegate duty cycle.
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Ok so here's what I have going on. My aled has always dropped 300-400 rpm by the time I would get to 100mph. I chased my tail thinking it was clutching. Today I watched the waste duty cycle and that goes to 35 to 38% and qradually drops back to upper 20s. About in line with the rpm drop. Boost drops about 1 to 1.5lb. Bad celenoid, bad pressure censor? I just did all the boot clamps so they should be good. Any ideas?
 
I've been all over with clutching. If I load it heavier it drops the rpm but maintains the same drop over a long pull. Same with going the other way. I was told duty cycle should hold steady at wide open throttle unless there's a problem.
 
kviper said:
Ok so here's what I have going on. My aled has always dropped 300-400 rpm by the time I would get to 100mph. I chased my tail thinking it was clutching. Today I watched the waste duty cycle and that goes to 35 to 38% and qradually drops back to upper 20s. About in line with the rpm drop. Boost drops about 1 to 1.5lb. Bad celenoid, bad pressure censor? I just did all the boot clamps so they should be good. Any ideas?
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Should do a boost leak test for slight leaks. Pressurize system from turbo outlet.
 
0degC said:
Should do a boost leak test for slight leaks. Pressurize system from turbo outlet.
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I've been told that before so I suppose that should be the next step. I kind of thought the duty cycle percentage would increase if that was the case, computer trying to increase boost to maintain set boost?
 
Its stock with a muffler, manual boost controller and fuel box. 12/13 lb boost. I kind of feel like the monkeys #*$&@. When I did the throttle body clamps I forgot to put the hose on that comes up to the bottom of the plenum. Not sure where that hose goes to but I would think that would be a sizable leak! Lol! I thought I could hear a sound that i didn recall hearing before. Going to to a boost leak test tomorrow any way just to make sure everything is right. If it still drops rpm ill need to dig deeper.
 
Can't stress enough and I must sound like a broken record, but these 2 piece 3Bar sensors need to be checked. It was causing some major issues on mine. If it has the aluminum nipple with O-ring it's probly the issue. Put some RTV sealant on there because the O-ring doesn't seal worth a damn.
 
Is that the stock censor and where is it located down in the nose of the sled?
 
That is an after market MAP sensor needed with all the tunes over 15 lbs of boost. It's in the nose to the left of the fuse box. Second sensor over. Who's tune do you have? The 3 Bar sensors are brand sensitive. Their name will be on it.
 
It's not tuned. I have a 2" full power performance muffler, a manual boost controller and a fuel box to add a little extra fuel for the mods. I thought the stock map censor was 2 bar. So standing in front of the sled It's the second one to the left of the fuse box?
 
Yes it has a short hose coming into it from a "T" I do not know for sure if the 2Bar MAP sensor has the aluminum nipple on it. I do not believe it does.

There's only one muffler that i have heard of that will run without a tune and that's the Hindle muffler.
 
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