MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
My sled is too rough riding at lower speeds and i noticed my center shock was cranked up 2/3 of the way.
So I dry out my sled in the shop, lift up the back end and take a look... I loosened it up and started threading it down and the spring is WAY too short...??
It was 2/3 tight because any looser and it flops up and down.
Am I missing something here? Limiter strap adjustment or something? Or has someone put a shorter spring in this?
Thanks!
So I dry out my sled in the shop, lift up the back end and take a look... I loosened it up and started threading it down and the spring is WAY too short...??
It was 2/3 tight because any looser and it flops up and down.
Am I missing something here? Limiter strap adjustment or something? Or has someone put a shorter spring in this?
Thanks!
forestcity
Newbie
Mine is the exact same way, I have just enough tension on the spring to hold it tight. I was thinking about doing this.
http://www.schmidtbrosmotorsports.com/y ... k-upgrade/
http://www.schmidtbrosmotorsports.com/y ... k-upgrade/
It doesnt matter as long as there is enough tension to hold the retainer in.Should be more threads left to tighten the spring from that point or are you saying there isnt?
porkchop
TY 4 Stroke Master
I was told just the opposite since I'm a "bigger" guy (about 280).
My suspension guy installed a 200# rate spring on the shock, re-valved for my weight, and then instead of adding stiffer springs (which are CRAZY $$$) I made some big spacers to insert inside the spring coil to hold them "coiled".
It was real stiff at first, wouldn't even squat the 1 1/2" but I've been messing with the block setting @ medium now + rear shock clicks and it's getting better.
** Bruce @ Fastline Performance: (315) 750-8139 Been doing shocks a long time, He'll give ya' free advise too!
My suspension guy installed a 200# rate spring on the shock, re-valved for my weight, and then instead of adding stiffer springs (which are CRAZY $$$) I made some big spacers to insert inside the spring coil to hold them "coiled".
It was real stiff at first, wouldn't even squat the 1 1/2" but I've been messing with the block setting @ medium now + rear shock clicks and it's getting better.
** Bruce @ Fastline Performance: (315) 750-8139 Been doing shocks a long time, He'll give ya' free advise too!
I meant adjustment wise not spring rating for your wieght and style.Truthfully though on Phazers that center spring is way less important than the rear shock and torsions.
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
yam177
TY 4 Stroke Master
When you run them loose I tape some duct tape aropund the reatiners to keep them from popping off
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
I guess I am wondering if this spring is seriously supposed to be this short? It doesn't make any sense, why would the spring even have all that adjustment if you can't use it?
All I know is I am getting hyfax wear right at the front of the skid where the center shock is, and it is rough as hell.
I will measure that spring tonight.
All I know is I am getting hyfax wear right at the front of the skid where the center shock is, and it is rough as hell.
I will measure that spring tonight.
yam177
TY 4 Stroke Master
Shocks are always more universal than you think. I am pretty sure the spring is ok. Just loosen it up and tape the retainer. when you say rough what do you mean?
Hyfax where in that spot is normal on the Phazer try some low snow wheel kits
Hyfax where in that spot is normal on the Phazer try some low snow wheel kits
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
Rough as in kicks my #*$&@ off the seat. You can feel every little or big bump hit the front of the track.
I have never had a center shock set that stiff that is what got me looking at this (I bought it used)
Rear springs set to medium
I have never had a center shock set that stiff that is what got me looking at this (I bought it used)
Rear springs set to medium
yam177
TY 4 Stroke Master
Are you sure its to stiff. I could be blown or need rebuild and going through the travel to quickly. IE less slow speed compression. take a zip tie and put it on the shaft ride it and see how much travel you are using.
Do that an post back lets see if we can hjelp you out
Do that an post back lets see if we can hjelp you out
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
yam177 said:
I hope its not wrecked, only 2000 miles on it! Good idea about the zip tie, I will do that!
yam177
TY 4 Stroke Master
Heres a better breakdown was to busy earlier to adresss it
Rebond is how fast the shock returns after compression also slighted does effect compression settings.
Slow speed is for little bumps, high speeed is for BIG LANDINGS
#1) When your sled is squirrely it almost always means your rear shock is not stiff enough and/or your center shock is too stiff (the two shocks are out of balance with each other). You must find a better balance between the two shocks. I might start by softening the low and high speed ajustement on the center shock. Maybe 1-3/4 turn out on high speed and 8 clicks on the center screw. Loosen the center spring so it is just held in place with the skid in the air.
#2) Run your rear springs in whatever setting keeps the rear arm off the rear coupler when sitting on it. Adjust the rear high sped nut to 1 turn and the center to 4 clicks. I like to slow the rebound on the rear, but this requires tearing the shocks apart and revalving.
Every sled wears differently so you should watch for the following signs.
1. Does your sled's suspension start to feel lifeless or packed up after pounding through more than 4 or 5 consecutive moguls or holes and then start to feel OK again after a few minutes of smooth cruising or after stopping the sled for a few minutes?
2. Does the skid sometimes just bottom on small bumps or holes when it really shouldn't?
3. Does the rear sometimes just suddenly kick up in the back....in situations where it did not used to?
4. Does the skid "clank" on medium to big jump landings even when you are landing fairly smooth?
If you answered yes to these questions then the shocks need to be rebuild before tuning can begin
Rebond is how fast the shock returns after compression also slighted does effect compression settings.
Slow speed is for little bumps, high speeed is for BIG LANDINGS
#1) When your sled is squirrely it almost always means your rear shock is not stiff enough and/or your center shock is too stiff (the two shocks are out of balance with each other). You must find a better balance between the two shocks. I might start by softening the low and high speed ajustement on the center shock. Maybe 1-3/4 turn out on high speed and 8 clicks on the center screw. Loosen the center spring so it is just held in place with the skid in the air.
#2) Run your rear springs in whatever setting keeps the rear arm off the rear coupler when sitting on it. Adjust the rear high sped nut to 1 turn and the center to 4 clicks. I like to slow the rebound on the rear, but this requires tearing the shocks apart and revalving.
Every sled wears differently so you should watch for the following signs.
1. Does your sled's suspension start to feel lifeless or packed up after pounding through more than 4 or 5 consecutive moguls or holes and then start to feel OK again after a few minutes of smooth cruising or after stopping the sled for a few minutes?
2. Does the skid sometimes just bottom on small bumps or holes when it really shouldn't?
3. Does the rear sometimes just suddenly kick up in the back....in situations where it did not used to?
4. Does the skid "clank" on medium to big jump landings even when you are landing fairly smooth?
If you answered yes to these questions then the shocks need to be rebuild before tuning can begin
Mike if you are worried about the ride you wouldnt have the limiter strap out so far.How can you turn it with skiis in the air?Obviously that spring was designed for a normal strap setting and not much more.I agree if you are going to run the strap out that far and you dont want center shock stiff when riding and front end on the ground then you have to either tape the retainer or add a tender spring to that shock.
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
cannondale27 said:
The strap was all the way out when I bought it and I have not bothered adjusting it yet. We don't have trails so skis in the air doesn't seem to matter.
So basically I could tighten the limiter strap and then loosen up the spring? Perhaps I don't fully understand the relationship between the two?
If it will ride nicer with the strap pulled up a bit I would definitely try that!
Thanks
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