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Which fullly synthetic oil to use?

Tom-RX1 said:
the amsoil 0w40 seems to be the best .
Tom-RX1

Amzoil is all I will run in mine. I have had really good luck with their oils. My 01 Chevy work van is just about ready to hit 250K and the motor is still strong as hell. I am not easy on it either. It hauls a lot of weight on a pretty regular basis. I have run their oils 7000 miles between changes and thats below what they recomend. If you use their filters you can go 12K but that just seems long to me. But something tells me my van would be running just as strong if I did go every 12K.
I also know a oil guru who worked for pennzoil for many years and even he admitted that their oil was a very good product.
 

Yamaha 4S in my turbo sled.

My new Apex RTX runs whatever the dealer put in it at the 800 kms or 500 mile service. But it will get Yamaha 4S when I do the service and oil change myself.
 
Anybody try the Joe Gibbs Racing OIL that Ulmer sells. It's full synthetic.
 
i use royal purple since i get it for rediculously cheap and its an overall good product. other than that i go with syntec (preferably the stuff from germany thats a REAL synthetic, not the domestic stuff thats only hydrocracked)
 
the JOE GIBBS isnt a long range oil, needs changing sooner than most oils...Amsoil is still my choice.....118,000mi on the wifes suv....4 oil changes.....
 
snake-oil.jpg
 
rehm70 said:
the JOE GIBBS isnt a long range oil, needs changing sooner than most oils...Amsoil is still my choice.....118,000mi on the wifes suv....4 oil changes.....

I don't think I will go longer than 3 thousand miles to an Oil change... I think the Joe Gibbs oil will make it that far... I will sell it by then. We are not talking auto's here. Sleds... Most people don't keep a sled longer than 3000-5000 miles.
 
Lucas 0W-30 Fully Synthetic here!

And for those of you who know what the API rating means, the current Lucas 0W-30 is rated SM/CF. Yamaha calls for SE or higher so yeah.

Those of you who dont know what an API rating means i will explain it briefly (kinda).

When you see a quart of Oil, you will see the API rating and it will either say something like CE/SE or SL/CF or whatever the case might be. CE stands for, Compression (diesel rating) and E basically represents the "technology" in the oil. SE means Spark (gasoline rating) and the second letter still represents the same.

So take Castrol 0w30 which currently has a rating of SL/CF, so this oil is intended for gasoline engines, but it is followed by a CF rating or something like that, then it can be used in diesel engines also, like all of Castrols synthetics.

And note the higher rating of the Lucas 0W-30 SM/CF which i happened to compare to Amsoil

Amsoil 0W-30 is SM/CF meaning, so be carefull with your once in a lifetime oil change because, the same level of technological advances in oil, are in the Lucas equivalent and after talking to their tech department, I discovered Lucas believes no level of advertising should warrant exceeding 10,000km's or 1 year on any oil change, which actually surprised me considering they print "extended drain periods" and "long lasting" on their bottles of synthetic.

And read the fine print on the Amsoil (dealership) contract. Basically if you blow up, sorry but your the one who chose to wait that long! The reason i chose Amsoil as a scapegoat is because i was actually going to get some of this stuff but i called my local Amsoil retailer and he called me back with a price tag for 12L of their 0W-30 Synthetic, for a low low price of $218 for ONE case plus tax and shipping.

Anyway im not dissing the stuff, maybe it is actually magical, but i just wanted to add a little piece of my mind in the Oil Jihad. At least now those who didnt know this have some ammo on their side when they select their next oil for their cars, trucks, atvs or sleds!
 


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