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Why is my pto driveshaft bearing always dry


$25 bearing and 15 minutes to change, I'm not spending a $100 for a greaser!
 
Just to make everything clear about the Greasers.
Jerry actually makes them. (The Guy in Waterford)

We were going to make them & he was already working on it, so I figured is easier to let him make them, & market them with him.
The Greasers are a very good product & he did well engineering them.
So it works better for us to team up together than go head to head. (Same with Travis)
Made/Makes perfect sense to me & is good for everyone involved, including all of us as riders.
My personal feeling is, most things that are good for the industry, are generally good for us as riders. :sled1:

Hope this helps make things clear!


PS I appreciate the support & you guys having my back! Gotta love TY !!! :Rockon:
 
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Sasquatch said:
Over greasing a bearing will make it heat up and melt the grease out. If you are not carefull you can push the seal out on the other side. Maybe the inner seal is damaged in some way or not seated properly! I flush and regrease the Jack shaft and driveshaft bearings every year on the sled.[/QUOTE

On another subject I just had a friend call with a problem with his son's 2006 Apex. It will not start. With the engine turning over at a speed that he feels should start it.....it just will not. He is an experienced and very sharp guy . He has checked many things but is currently thinking it could be an oil pressure issue. A number of years ago my Vector went through ice at a creek. The front end was tilted downward to the left. When we first got it out it would not start and we found that the oil had drained somewhat but recovered after it sat on a flat surface for a bit. For the life of me I cannot remember the explanation for that. Kraft moment I guess.

Anyway, when it had the right amount of oil it started fine. Does anyone know of oil pressure/sending switch issues that would cause this? Or any idea at all? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
The Greaser is a great product ! Like I said before in another post , I have the original prototype on my machine with 0 issues ! Stuff comes in as you ride push it back with grease >> ! Who wants to change bearings all the time ?!? Make your life easier ,And if $100 is a lot , you shouldn’t own a sled or even an Apex !
 
Last edited:
Teamblue4 said:
$25 bearing and 15 minutes to change, I'm not spending a $100 for a greaser!
Click to expand...
So you don't have to remove the drive shaft to get at the bearing? I wa watching a video on a guy replacing this bearing and he had taken off chaincase cover off, dropped the track, took the the driveshaft off etc... is there a short cut?
 
YammieMan said:
So you don't have to remove the drive shaft to get at the bearing? I wa watching a video on a guy replacing this bearing and he had taken off chaincase cover off, dropped the track, took the the driveshaft off etc... is there a short cut?
Click to expand...

It should be quick as long as the bearing is not seized to the shaft!

-remove secondary(14mm socket. Pay attention to all thrust washers and their positioning)
-remove bearing cover plate(4x 12mm socket)
- IMPORTANT this bearing has a locking collar. You must reach up under to the backside and loosen the set screws. Sometimes these are torx but on my apex they were metric Allan keys.
- at this point I was able to slide the bearing out off of the shaft. I carefully pried against the track and on the bearing collar and mine slid off easily.

If you cannot get it off then yes.... This turns into a much bigger job.

Hope this helps.

FYI, on my 2013 the presumable Yamaha bearing had a steel outer seal. Therefore, you cannot remove the seal to add grease without destroying it. My bearing seemed fine but for a $20 NTN I will replace it often.
 
If the bearing isn't rusted to the drive axle, you can remove it by just taking off the secondary and removing the speedo sensor and bearing retainer bracket and slide the bearing out once you have loosened the two set screws on the bearing collar. You my have to loosen the track tension so as to give the axle some play and may even have to push up/wiggle the drive axle as you are sliding the bearing out and off the drive axle. To re-install, just push up on the drive axle so its centered in its hole and slide bearing back on. Tighten set screws and re-assemble remaining parts.
 
YammieMan said:
So you don't have to remove the drive shaft to get at the bearing? I wa watching a video on a guy replacing this bearing and he had taken off chaincase cover off, dropped the track, took the the driveshaft off etc... is there a short cut?
Click to expand...

Sounds like your video was for the jackshaft bearing. The Greaser fits on the lower bearing referred to often as the speedo bearing. GreaserApexPic.jpg
 
If you are going to install the greaser, I’d suggest popping that bearing off the drive shaft fist amd applying some never seize. If they’re not removed from the shaft on a regular basis or coated with something, getting them off after a failure can be really tough. Just a thought......
 
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