doo_man
Expert
Got it! Had a close look, it's seems like if you cranked it left or right it could squeeze past the stop plate, might have to modify the stop plate if I fix isn't found. Can't wait for the Mountain Mod cowl to show. Nice clean install!
HI, I'll be mocking up every thing here and take a look at the steering stops. I'll post back here when I get one together and figure out a easy fix.
Thanks
Kurt
Thanks
Kurt
yamahaboy_15
Extreme
when you change the rider forward it realy changes the riding position and the comfort of mountain riding when standing. i love the way the rider forward feels.
YaMon
Pro
mulot30th
Lifetime Member
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- 2023 thundercat
apex mountain crracing 174
apex blower 136 for asphalt racing
osp drag race sled (apex engine based)
Just ordered mine too.
yamahaboy_15
Extreme
got a question why would you leave the light and windsheild crud There is some weight right there..
YaMon
Pro
If you ever ride the trails or at night the Light is very important.
yamahaboy_15
Extreme
Turtle
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'15 Viper RTX SE w/ MPI turbo - sold
'07 FX Phazer GT
Does anyone have and idea of how this mod will perform on a trail sled? I'm looking for better mogul performance.
pro116
Lifetime Member
Gade I was going to do it to mt trail sled this year.
You get more rider forward and you can corner better because more of your weight get's put over the ski's.
You get more rider forward and you can corner better because more of your weight get's put over the ski's.
JJWickenhauser
Expert
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- 2010 Nytro MTX SE 162" MCXpress 270 kit
I just got mine on last night. I haven't cut the hood yet. I'd like to sell it at Haydays and then get one of those stealth hoods. But they are a ton of money. What could a guy pull out of a flawless red 06 MTN Vector hood? those mesh hoods are like $500. That is going to dip into the super charger fund.
pro116
Lifetime Member
get a sno stuff hood at haydays.They are top notch hoods and alot cheaper.
Did anyone ever figure out the going past the stops issue? I got mine all installed and am over centering turning both directions. Looking for the quick fix before I put everything back together.
What did you guys use for risers and did you point the piece that mounts on the steer post that the riser attaches to foward or aft?
Just figured that I would add a shim behind the stop plate to bring it out a little bit, then re-drill the holes a little wider so the stops on the post aren't hitting the rivets and add a doubler on the back side of the frame.
What is a good way to mount the instrument cluster in the new position? Is it just my sled or are th eheadlight and instrument cluster wires intertwined and have to be cut to reroute the wire to the clulster. what is with the 3 yellow wires, one coming from engine bay, 2 going to headlights , that get spliced into one and go into the instrument cluster?
What did you guys use for risers and did you point the piece that mounts on the steer post that the riser attaches to foward or aft?
Just figured that I would add a shim behind the stop plate to bring it out a little bit, then re-drill the holes a little wider so the stops on the post aren't hitting the rivets and add a doubler on the back side of the frame.
What is a good way to mount the instrument cluster in the new position? Is it just my sled or are th eheadlight and instrument cluster wires intertwined and have to be cut to reroute the wire to the clulster. what is with the 3 yellow wires, one coming from engine bay, 2 going to headlights , that get spliced into one and go into the instrument cluster?
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
For the stop I build a steel plate welded stops on the outside and used the angel-grinder to trim them so they line up with the angel of the steering shaft( very important)
The main problem is that the stop plate (frame) and steering shaft are at different angels now, that allows the plate on the shaft to slide up and to slip by the stop.
I build the stop plate (on the frame)with a very large stop block on each side and grind them down until I had the right amount of steering back.
Does this make sense to you?
The main problem is that the stop plate (frame) and steering shaft are at different angels now, that allows the plate on the shaft to slide up and to slip by the stop.
I build the stop plate (on the frame)with a very large stop block on each side and grind them down until I had the right amount of steering back.
Does this make sense to you?
sledskiing
Expert
Here is what mine ended up looking like.
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