twyztid
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Your offset looks good and I have a similar setup. That helix & TP Orange spring combo doesn't need to be wrapped more than 3/1. What speed were you running it up to when it blew. I had my secondary machined by Thunder Products because they told me that it appears that they quit shifting at about 115mph. I have 1200+ miles on my XS825 and my clutches only get warmBroke belt in for 40 miles and then did a long pull and belt snapped. Damaged the side panel a little and the precision belly protector did it’s job taking the blunt of the force. Twisted up at the top but can be straightened. Using heavy hitters with orange primary and 33-35 with orange at 40. Offset was at 58. What’s needed to be done so this is less likely to happen again. This was with 240 hurricane tune. With the 8jp I had 450 with no issues before the switch except dust.Thanks
jonlafon1
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The helix was machined for better shift out.. Probably not the secondary itself.secondary machined by Thunder Products
twyztid
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Wrong. They DID machine the secondary.The helix was machined for better shift out.. Probably not the secondary itself.
jonlafon1
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What did they machine and whereWrong. They DID machine the secondary.
Big_Phil
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Ya, than the OP has a clutch binding or something else wrong if it’s snapping belts.I am running a 275HP TD Tune with all Thunder Products clutching (EVERYTHING) on my 17 LTX SE and I have my TP Orange secondary spring wrapped to 3/1. No need for it to be wrapped any more than that for me... even when heavily studded. Clutches are only warm after long pulls. My offset is 57.5mm. I have a 2012 Vector primary and my secondary is cut to allow it to shift further.
jonlafon1
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First thing I asked on here.. I like and USE Thunder products BUT the orange primary spring is the last spring I would run in my primary.Ya, than the OP has a clutch binding or something else wrong if it’s snapping belts.
twyztid
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It's working well for me...First thing I asked on here.. I like and USE Thunder products BUT the orange primary spring is the last spring I would run in my primary.
twyztid
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I don't know exactly what all was machined but it wasn't the helix.What did they machine and where
jonlafon1
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Typically the secondary helix is machined to allow the secondary sheaves to open up(shift out) slightly more. The belt will run further into the sheaves.I don't know exactly what all was machined but it wasn't the helix.
jonlafon1
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In a different clutch then what the original post is using. Seen it bind badly in stock sidewinder primaryIt's working well for me...
blevis213
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I should of stated the primary is an apex clutch. And the last I looked down speedo was 118.
jonlafon1
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Slipping on top end. Overheating belt. Bang!I should of stated the primary is an apex clutch. And the last I looked down speedo was 118.
twyztid
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Contact Thunder Products. Your setup is almost the same as mine and I am not having any problems anymore. The only difference is the work they did to my secondary.I should of stated the primary is an apex clutch. And the last I looked down speedo was 118.
blevis213
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Still try other primary spring and or secondary tighter. Also heard possibly try straight 37 dalton helix. I also have dalton b/0 second generation spring still in wrapper. Thanks for the knowledgeSlipping on top end. Overheating belt. Bang!
jonlafon1
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As much as i like a little more helix angle(faster upshift) I don't believe its going to solve your problem totally. Check your offset after blowing belt, and try one thing at a time.. You have something that is off slightly. Belt(break) heat up top and or binding. Post a picture of your primary spring removed if possible. Check your secondary sheaves for black marks down low at full shift.Still try other primary spring and or secondary tighter. Also heard possibly try straight 37 dalton helix. I also have dalton b/0 second generation spring still in wrapper. Thanks for the knowledge
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