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Xs825 belt break in

blevis213

Lifetime Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
386
Location
hadley, new york
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2014 apex se
2001 srx 700
2000 srx 700
2021 sidewinder srx
Broke belt in for 40 miles and then did a long pull and belt snapped. Damaged the side panel a little and the precision belly protector did it’s job taking the blunt of the force. Twisted up at the top but can be straightened. Using heavy hitters with orange primary and 33-35 with orange at 40. Offset was at 58. What’s needed to be done so this is less likely to happen again. This was with 240 hurricane tune. With the 8jp I had 450 with no issues before the switch except dust.Thanks
 

Yes u can see some missing paint on the coils
 
Yes u can see some missing paint on the coils
Do yourself a favor and try a Yamaha primary spring(Yellow/white/yellow) or yellow /green /yellow. Glide washers also
Your primary spring could be the cause, as I have seen that spring with a lot of paint missing from the coils. Like lots.
Something is out of balance and or binding IMO
 
Also curious. How did the belt break? Like clean snap or in a million shreds and pieces?
Are you using a secondary adjuster to set your deflection? or the stock plug and washers?
 
Yamaha spring chart_LI.jpg
 
Using barn of parts belt adjuster had belt even with sheaves. Track didn’t move on stand but could easily move with a finger. The belt blew in pieces. Maybe it needed more miles for break in
 
I wouldnt think a reverse angle helix is needed with 240 tune, 39/35 with a epi purple type spring @ about 9&1 works well, or a stk 35 degree with some stiffer spring.
 
Sounds like a overheated belt break. You might have to increase the secondary spring slightly. Maybe 3/2 so 50. Only way to know is to test your clutch set up with heat gun and see what twist is running the coolest for temps.. The XS belt should be gripping better then the 8jp. So its strange that you blew a Xs belt but not a 8jp. The belt blow has also probably thrown the offset off now. Measure your offset again after belt blow
 
For what it's worth, there are many threads here in TY about this, but I've talked to Timken (Carlisle) engineers multiple times about belt break-in. The most important point they make is the belt needs to see at least 3 complete heat cycles before putting the flipper to the gripper. More than 3 is better.
 
Try wrapping the secondary tighter. I don’t have much experience with the Thunderproduct weights and springs, but all the sleds including mine that were snapping belts were due to the secondary spring being to weak. Basically you end up in the wrong gear and the belt can’t take it and goes boom. These ultimax belts are very tough. Should go for 1000s of miles even @270+ Hp
 
For what it's worth, there are many threads here in TY about this, but I've talked to Timken (Carlisle) engineers multiple times about belt break-in. The most important point they make is the belt needs to see at least 3 complete heat cycles before putting the flipper to the gripper. More than 3 is better.
For some , 3 complete heat cycles is a whole season !!!!
How about if the belts came pre broken in , so they are plug and play !!!
 
Try wrapping the secondary tighter. I don’t have much experience with the Thunderproduct weights and springs, but all the sleds including mine that were snapping belts were due to the secondary spring being to weak. Basically you end up in the wrong gear and the belt can’t take it and goes boom. These ultimax belts are very tough. Should go for 1000s of miles even @270+ Hp
I am running a 275HP TD Tune with all Thunder Products clutching (EVERYTHING) on my 17 LTX SE and I have my TP Orange secondary spring wrapped to 3/1. No need for it to be wrapped any more than that for me... even when heavily studded. Clutches are only warm after long pulls. My offset is 57.5mm. I have a 2012 Vector primary and my secondary is cut to allow it to shift further.
 


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