Rockmeister
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Then don't!LJ 452 said:
I had asked to give me some time to reply.
Any explanation I post will try to make as clear as possible.
Your post isn't clear as to exactly WHAT mod you are speaking of.
He was speaking of the ROCKERDAN MOD IN COMBINATION WITH THE WARM HANDS CONTROLLER.
If you have the Rockerdan mod, you know what it is, if you don't have it, it is NOT an issue.
Rockmeister
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Ride-N-Rice said:Can you tell me how to pay by pay-pal
https://www.paypal.com
http://www.mahalo.com/How_to_Use_PayPal ... and_Beyond
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/paypal.htm
The second one is probably the best one.
Would suggest setting up a personal account, it is free and pretty easy.
If you currently have a Paypal account just click on SEND MONEY tab at the top.
Enter my email hotrock1 at comcast dot net
(Note that it is dot NET !)
Enter the correct amount and confirm.
Pretty easy once you use it.
Hope this helps!
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
COLDONE & Gone Blue:Gone Blue said:
It's a display LED, not a LED DISPLAY. Sorry about that!
It is one 1/4" LED as shown in the pic to the right of the Mode Switch.
Hmmmmmm... Maybe call it a Mode LED?...
Just LED is not quite enough, because it tells you ALOT more than just "the power is on".
The display LED tells you what the controller and your grip warmers are doing by changing color and brightness.
You don't HAVE to mount the switch OR the LED, you can simply Ty-wrap them to the Controller if you desire.
About the only time you will likely use the Mode Switch is in the spring to totally turn your warmers off when it is really warm out.
The LED I would suggest mounting because it gives you feedback, but you do not HAVE to.
Mounting the LED is simply drilling a 1/4" hole and snapping it in.
Hope this helps!
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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Printable Installation instructions
YAMAHEATER WARM HANDS CONTROLLER for 2003-Current Yamahas
Installation and Use Instructions
Tools/Supplies needed(hardwired unit)): Good Crimpers for crimp connectors, Wire Strippers,Sharp Razor Knife, 8mm & 10mm wrench, Small Ty-wraps (3-4") etc.
Possibly needed: Dielectric grease, spare 18ga automotive wire, Spare Snap connectors, Spare Shrink Sleeving, Double-sided foam tape or foam weatherstripping to put between Warm Hands Controller and mounting surface, Any other common tools, screwdrivers etc.
Suitable common replacement parts:
Bullet Snap Connectors: Radio Shack Part# 68-3085
This includes 5 each of the snap connectors. (Male & Female)
LED trim ring is a small black plastic part that is easily dropped. If you do drop it in the bottom of your sled (Done that, lol),
You can get the new style replacements free from me.
Blue Crimp Tap (Make sure the crimp tap is kept warm until you are ready to use it, only broke one so far and it was cooooold!),
Radio Shack Part# 64-036
USING THE QUICK CONNECT PLUG & GO PLAY KIT WITH FACTORY CONNECTORS:
You do NOT need to cut any wire to install, simply locate the appropriate connectors and snap in connectors supplied in-line.
The 3 Connectors on your sled that you need are:
Brake Connector (Blue/Red & Green wires) connects to Blue & Green on YamaHeater
Grip Connector (Yellow/Red & Black wires) connects to Yellow & Black on YamaHeater
Grip Connector (Yellow/Red & Black wires) 2nd connector not used.
The Grips (2 small Black wires) Plug into the 2 connectors with Orange & Black Wires on the output of the YamaHeater.
There may be an extra orange wire bullet connector on the controller you will NOT connect, it is for a hard-wired unit.
You may have to slightly relocate the wires from the bar warmers to allow them to reach the connectors on Nytros & Phazers.
You will only use one of the wiring harness connectors from the ECU (Black & Yellow/Red) into your YAMAHEATER.
The other Black & Yellow/Red will simply remain in the rubber boot not connected to anything.
Your kit includes a blue 15A mini blade fuse, locate your fusebox & replace the SIG fuse on your sled with the 15A.
(If your current fuse is the same or larger, leave it in & put the included fuse in the spare fuse slot)
Make sure to Double-check wire colors as noted in TY link shown below. (ESPECIALLY on 2006 models)
There is much more info for all installs here, including the Plug & Go Play Kits, with detailed pics:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=67236 Use the INDEX links on the first page.
IF YOU NEED ANY HELP EMAIL ME AT support@yamaheater.com Include your phone number, I am here to help! Rock : )
HARDWIRED INSTRUCTIONS
(Gives locations,etc. However, you do NOT have to cut any wires for Plug & Play install.)
(Read the entire directions BEFORE installation and before starting sled.)
1) Locate a suitable mounting location for controller, away from sources of heat, especially exhaust, and away from any moving parts. (Keeping wires away from all sharp edges.)
On RX/RS, on the left frame rail near the fuel pumps, or the lower handlebar support bracket works well.
On Apexs & Attaks, the black metal bracket on the left side above the secondary clutch works well (away from moving parts).
On Phazers & Nytros, the back of clutch side plastic headlight support works well.
NOTE: ALL the wires you need to connect to are at or near the base of the bars!
(With the possible exception of power & ground.)
> Do NOT cut or use ANY wire at the ECU!!! The wire colors are duplicated from the factory for different uses at the ECU <
ONLY connect to the Yellow/Red and Blue/White (Or Blue/Red) ON or AT THE BASE OF THE BARS.
If you are un-sure, simply follow the grip warmer wires downward, they will lead you right to the Yellow/Red wire(s). Same goes for the Blue/White wire.
2) Locate existing Blue wire with White stripe (Blue/White) on your sled.
(Blue wire with a Red stripe(Blue/Red) will work here also. Blue/Red is used on all Plug&Go Play kits.)
This is the Headlight wire, it tells the Warm Hands Controller your sled is running.
On Rx-1s/Rages this is located under the zip-up cover on the bars.
On Apexs/Attaks this is in the large rubber boot on the left side just above the secondary clutch,
near the bottom of the steering shaft under the cowling.
On Nytros&Phazers, etc this is in rubber boots behind headlight assembly.
3) Slit back protective outer jacket (if needed) approx 2 inches to expose Blue/White wire. (Being careful NOT to slit the wire!)
4) Install Blue crimp tap on Blue/White wire approx 2 inches away from connector.
(Do Not connect right up against the connector.)
(Tap has dielectric grease on it to help prevent corrosion.)
Gently squeeze the tap connector top & bottom until it is fully seated and snaps tight at the back.
Crimp Tap instructions with pictures can be found here: http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Produc ... 7-2445.PDF
5) Plug Blue sensor wire from WHC into new tap on Blue/White wire, making sure terminal goes INTO slot in crimp tap.
6) Locate and expose Yellow wire with Red stripe (Yellow/Red) at least 4 inches away from connector. (Towards engine side of connector).
Yellow/Red is the grip warmer power wire.
On Rx-1 & Rage this is located under the handlebar zip cover. You do NOT need to cut the Yellow/Red wire on RX/RS!
On RX/RS simply unplug the snap connector on the Yellow/Red wire and plug in controller. (Yellow towards engine, Orange towards bars.)
On Apex/Attak this is located at or near the bottom of the steering shaft under the cowling.
On Phazer & Nytros, it is on the battery side of sled just behind plastic headlight support.
On ANY sled where the Yellow/Red wire splits WITHIN the wiring harness,
You will use "Y" Cable built into the Orange Controller wire to connect the grips together.
If the Yellow/Red wire splits outside the wire harness, you must connect the Controller in the single Yellow/Red wire before the split to each grip.
7) Cut Yellow/Red wire at least 2 inches away from connector. Strip ends slightly more than 1/4" back. Twist ends tightly.
8) Crimp FEMALE bullet connector to Yellow/Red end coming FROM wire harness(ECU)
(Away from bars, towards front of sled.).
Test the crimp by tugging on the connector. Plug into Male Yellow wire from Warm Hands Controller.
9) Crimp MALE bullet connector to Yellow/Red wire end going upward TOWARDS grip warmers (Towards bars.).
Test the crimp by tugging on the connector. Plug into Female Orange wire from Warm Hands Controller.
10) Connect Black wire with lug to suitable ground. Bolt on left side that attaches to U-frame tube is a possible good point.
11) Connect Red wire to constant +12 volts.
12) Drill 1/4" hole for mode switch. Mount switch. (May simply ty-wrap mode switch to controller unit also.)
13) Drill 5/16" hole for LED indicator. (1/4" Hole if early smaller mounting ring)
With new longer trim ring, insert LED through hole, snap LED into trim ring, insert trim ring and LED into mounting hole.
(Be careful with LED leads, they can be damaged by forcing.)
14) Mount Warm Hands Controller with included ty-wraps in suitable location away from moving parts and sources of heat.
15) Neatly ty-wrap wires in suitable locations, away from moving parts, sharp edges, and sources of heat, etc.
You are finished with installation!
Double-check all connections and read the following BEFORE starting sled.
The following applies with sled running:
When warmers are ON with ECU, the LED will be Green and will show the relative intensity of the power to the bars.
Apply brake, On many models, LED will dim showing lowered ECU heat output to bars.
Turn warmers to OFF using the Blue handlebar control switch.
After a very short time delay, the LED will light RED, showing the relative intensity of the warmer power.
When the LED is Red, the warmers are connected directly to the YAMAHEATER High Heat mode.
Your warmers should be feeling WARM pretty quick! : ) (Before the temp light shuts off on your sled.)
The LED is not simply a power on light, the LED indicates ACTUAL power to the warmers.
If you have no power to the warmers, the LED will be off.
The mode switch in the off position tells the Controller to turn bar warmers to off, when set to off by the handlebar controls.
(When the mode switch is in the "off" position, the ECU/Warmers function EXACTLY as they came from the factory.)
If the LED does not turn Red when ECU is "off" and mode switch is ON, double check mode switch, and/or all wiring.
If the controller does not function as described above, or if your display shows ANY warmer errors, shut-down sled and double-check all wiring, mode switch, and fuse. Especially the Blue (From Headlight), Yellow (FROM ECU), and Orange (TO BARS).
For any questions email support@yamaheater.com, we will get back to you right away!
Enjoy your nice Warm Hands! : )
Goto your favorite website and let us know your experience! Rock : )
Warm Hands Controller Wire List. (These are the ONLY wires you need to connect.)
Black (with ring terminal)- Negative ground to Controller. (ONLY wire you need to connect, other than Plug-ins on Plug&Play.)
Red (with ring terminal)- +12V constant power to Controller.
Blue - Headlight sensor wire to Controller.
Yellow - ECU sensor wire to Controller from ECU.
Orange (Or White) - Warmer output wire from Controller to Grips.
Do NOT connect the following to anything:
Short Black & Red. (future use)
Violet (or Green) - Autowarm: Remote communication wire from SLEDSTART remote start. www.sledstart.com
Automatically sets your handwarmers to full heat when using remote to start your sled. Automatic Warm Hands!
Brown - Boost Control Output (Future use) Copyright 2010 www.yamaheater.com
YAMAHEATER WARM HANDS CONTROLLER for 2003-Current Yamahas
Installation and Use Instructions
Tools/Supplies needed(hardwired unit)): Good Crimpers for crimp connectors, Wire Strippers,Sharp Razor Knife, 8mm & 10mm wrench, Small Ty-wraps (3-4") etc.
Possibly needed: Dielectric grease, spare 18ga automotive wire, Spare Snap connectors, Spare Shrink Sleeving, Double-sided foam tape or foam weatherstripping to put between Warm Hands Controller and mounting surface, Any other common tools, screwdrivers etc.
Suitable common replacement parts:
Bullet Snap Connectors: Radio Shack Part# 68-3085
This includes 5 each of the snap connectors. (Male & Female)
LED trim ring is a small black plastic part that is easily dropped. If you do drop it in the bottom of your sled (Done that, lol),
You can get the new style replacements free from me.
Blue Crimp Tap (Make sure the crimp tap is kept warm until you are ready to use it, only broke one so far and it was cooooold!),
Radio Shack Part# 64-036
USING THE QUICK CONNECT PLUG & GO PLAY KIT WITH FACTORY CONNECTORS:
You do NOT need to cut any wire to install, simply locate the appropriate connectors and snap in connectors supplied in-line.
The 3 Connectors on your sled that you need are:
Brake Connector (Blue/Red & Green wires) connects to Blue & Green on YamaHeater
Grip Connector (Yellow/Red & Black wires) connects to Yellow & Black on YamaHeater
Grip Connector (Yellow/Red & Black wires) 2nd connector not used.
The Grips (2 small Black wires) Plug into the 2 connectors with Orange & Black Wires on the output of the YamaHeater.
There may be an extra orange wire bullet connector on the controller you will NOT connect, it is for a hard-wired unit.
You may have to slightly relocate the wires from the bar warmers to allow them to reach the connectors on Nytros & Phazers.
You will only use one of the wiring harness connectors from the ECU (Black & Yellow/Red) into your YAMAHEATER.
The other Black & Yellow/Red will simply remain in the rubber boot not connected to anything.
Your kit includes a blue 15A mini blade fuse, locate your fusebox & replace the SIG fuse on your sled with the 15A.
(If your current fuse is the same or larger, leave it in & put the included fuse in the spare fuse slot)
Make sure to Double-check wire colors as noted in TY link shown below. (ESPECIALLY on 2006 models)
There is much more info for all installs here, including the Plug & Go Play Kits, with detailed pics:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=67236 Use the INDEX links on the first page.
IF YOU NEED ANY HELP EMAIL ME AT support@yamaheater.com Include your phone number, I am here to help! Rock : )
HARDWIRED INSTRUCTIONS
(Gives locations,etc. However, you do NOT have to cut any wires for Plug & Play install.)
(Read the entire directions BEFORE installation and before starting sled.)
1) Locate a suitable mounting location for controller, away from sources of heat, especially exhaust, and away from any moving parts. (Keeping wires away from all sharp edges.)
On RX/RS, on the left frame rail near the fuel pumps, or the lower handlebar support bracket works well.
On Apexs & Attaks, the black metal bracket on the left side above the secondary clutch works well (away from moving parts).
On Phazers & Nytros, the back of clutch side plastic headlight support works well.
NOTE: ALL the wires you need to connect to are at or near the base of the bars!
(With the possible exception of power & ground.)
> Do NOT cut or use ANY wire at the ECU!!! The wire colors are duplicated from the factory for different uses at the ECU <
ONLY connect to the Yellow/Red and Blue/White (Or Blue/Red) ON or AT THE BASE OF THE BARS.
If you are un-sure, simply follow the grip warmer wires downward, they will lead you right to the Yellow/Red wire(s). Same goes for the Blue/White wire.
2) Locate existing Blue wire with White stripe (Blue/White) on your sled.
(Blue wire with a Red stripe(Blue/Red) will work here also. Blue/Red is used on all Plug&Go Play kits.)
This is the Headlight wire, it tells the Warm Hands Controller your sled is running.
On Rx-1s/Rages this is located under the zip-up cover on the bars.
On Apexs/Attaks this is in the large rubber boot on the left side just above the secondary clutch,
near the bottom of the steering shaft under the cowling.
On Nytros&Phazers, etc this is in rubber boots behind headlight assembly.
3) Slit back protective outer jacket (if needed) approx 2 inches to expose Blue/White wire. (Being careful NOT to slit the wire!)
4) Install Blue crimp tap on Blue/White wire approx 2 inches away from connector.
(Do Not connect right up against the connector.)
(Tap has dielectric grease on it to help prevent corrosion.)
Gently squeeze the tap connector top & bottom until it is fully seated and snaps tight at the back.
Crimp Tap instructions with pictures can be found here: http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Produc ... 7-2445.PDF
5) Plug Blue sensor wire from WHC into new tap on Blue/White wire, making sure terminal goes INTO slot in crimp tap.
6) Locate and expose Yellow wire with Red stripe (Yellow/Red) at least 4 inches away from connector. (Towards engine side of connector).
Yellow/Red is the grip warmer power wire.
On Rx-1 & Rage this is located under the handlebar zip cover. You do NOT need to cut the Yellow/Red wire on RX/RS!
On RX/RS simply unplug the snap connector on the Yellow/Red wire and plug in controller. (Yellow towards engine, Orange towards bars.)
On Apex/Attak this is located at or near the bottom of the steering shaft under the cowling.
On Phazer & Nytros, it is on the battery side of sled just behind plastic headlight support.
On ANY sled where the Yellow/Red wire splits WITHIN the wiring harness,
You will use "Y" Cable built into the Orange Controller wire to connect the grips together.
If the Yellow/Red wire splits outside the wire harness, you must connect the Controller in the single Yellow/Red wire before the split to each grip.
7) Cut Yellow/Red wire at least 2 inches away from connector. Strip ends slightly more than 1/4" back. Twist ends tightly.
8) Crimp FEMALE bullet connector to Yellow/Red end coming FROM wire harness(ECU)
(Away from bars, towards front of sled.).
Test the crimp by tugging on the connector. Plug into Male Yellow wire from Warm Hands Controller.
9) Crimp MALE bullet connector to Yellow/Red wire end going upward TOWARDS grip warmers (Towards bars.).
Test the crimp by tugging on the connector. Plug into Female Orange wire from Warm Hands Controller.
10) Connect Black wire with lug to suitable ground. Bolt on left side that attaches to U-frame tube is a possible good point.
11) Connect Red wire to constant +12 volts.
12) Drill 1/4" hole for mode switch. Mount switch. (May simply ty-wrap mode switch to controller unit also.)
13) Drill 5/16" hole for LED indicator. (1/4" Hole if early smaller mounting ring)
With new longer trim ring, insert LED through hole, snap LED into trim ring, insert trim ring and LED into mounting hole.
(Be careful with LED leads, they can be damaged by forcing.)
14) Mount Warm Hands Controller with included ty-wraps in suitable location away from moving parts and sources of heat.
15) Neatly ty-wrap wires in suitable locations, away from moving parts, sharp edges, and sources of heat, etc.
You are finished with installation!
Double-check all connections and read the following BEFORE starting sled.
The following applies with sled running:
When warmers are ON with ECU, the LED will be Green and will show the relative intensity of the power to the bars.
Apply brake, On many models, LED will dim showing lowered ECU heat output to bars.
Turn warmers to OFF using the Blue handlebar control switch.
After a very short time delay, the LED will light RED, showing the relative intensity of the warmer power.
When the LED is Red, the warmers are connected directly to the YAMAHEATER High Heat mode.
Your warmers should be feeling WARM pretty quick! : ) (Before the temp light shuts off on your sled.)
The LED is not simply a power on light, the LED indicates ACTUAL power to the warmers.
If you have no power to the warmers, the LED will be off.
The mode switch in the off position tells the Controller to turn bar warmers to off, when set to off by the handlebar controls.
(When the mode switch is in the "off" position, the ECU/Warmers function EXACTLY as they came from the factory.)
If the LED does not turn Red when ECU is "off" and mode switch is ON, double check mode switch, and/or all wiring.
If the controller does not function as described above, or if your display shows ANY warmer errors, shut-down sled and double-check all wiring, mode switch, and fuse. Especially the Blue (From Headlight), Yellow (FROM ECU), and Orange (TO BARS).
For any questions email support@yamaheater.com, we will get back to you right away!
Enjoy your nice Warm Hands! : )
Goto your favorite website and let us know your experience! Rock : )
Warm Hands Controller Wire List. (These are the ONLY wires you need to connect.)
Black (with ring terminal)- Negative ground to Controller. (ONLY wire you need to connect, other than Plug-ins on Plug&Play.)
Red (with ring terminal)- +12V constant power to Controller.
Blue - Headlight sensor wire to Controller.
Yellow - ECU sensor wire to Controller from ECU.
Orange (Or White) - Warmer output wire from Controller to Grips.
Do NOT connect the following to anything:
Short Black & Red. (future use)
Violet (or Green) - Autowarm: Remote communication wire from SLEDSTART remote start. www.sledstart.com
Automatically sets your handwarmers to full heat when using remote to start your sled. Automatic Warm Hands!
Brown - Boost Control Output (Future use) Copyright 2010 www.yamaheater.com
Rockmeister
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Gone Blue said:
Hey GB!
Will have a number of units available this coming week after the Muni ride!
Will be sending them out on a first come/first served basis as listed in Paypal.
TY VIP members get a discount and priority if they came in the same day.
If you are not currently a VIP member, it is easy to do and costs $15 to join and support this great site!
With the $10 discount, that makes your VIP membership only 5 bucks! Not bad...
Rockmeister
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ToddMeister said:
I have 2 extras for Muni and am delivering 5 I think.
Gone Blue
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rockmeister said:COLDONE & Gone Blue:Gone Blue said:
It's a display LED, not a LED DISPLAY. Sorry about that!
It is one 1/4" LED as shown in the pic to the left of the Mode Switch.
Hmmmmmm... Maybe call it a Mode LED?...
Just LED is not quite enough, because it tells you ALOT more than just "the power is on".
The display LED tells you what the controller and your grip warmers are doing by changing color and brightness.
You don't HAVE to mount the switch OR the LED, you can simply Ty-wrap them to the Controller if you desire.
About the only time you will likely use the Mode Switch is in the spring to totally turn your warmers off when it is really warm out.
The LED I would suggest mounting because it gives you feedback, but you do not HAVE to.
Mounting the LED is simply drilling a 1/4" hole and snapping it in.
Hope this helps!
Rock,
Thanks, that clears up the LED. I plan to order one later today. Thanks, G.B.
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
You are welcome GB!
Here is a wiring diagram for the Controller:
The wires that are not shown do NOT need to be connected to anything!
They are for future use.
The Blue, Yellow, & Orange wires connect right at, or near the bars.
(I know, it's not the greatest quality drawing, couldn't get the stupid program to print to a file, so printed it and took a a pic! Laffin Hey! It was fast & I have to fly!)
Here is a wiring diagram for the Controller:
The wires that are not shown do NOT need to be connected to anything!
They are for future use.
The Blue, Yellow, & Orange wires connect right at, or near the bars.
(I know, it's not the greatest quality drawing, couldn't get the stupid program to print to a file, so printed it and took a a pic! Laffin Hey! It was fast & I have to fly!)
Gibby
Expert
so do you split the yellow/red wire and connect to your box in the middle?
Rockmeister
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Yes, that is correct.Gibby said:
Gone Blue
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Rock,
I got hung up today and just now was able to send payment via Paypal. Thanks, G.B.
I got hung up today and just now was able to send payment via Paypal. Thanks, G.B.
Rockmeister
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Got it GB!
Will send asap after I return from Muni!
Have a number of orders, will fill them in the order they came in. (Accounting for VIP status with-in the day.)
Will do so also with ones that come in while I am gone.
Am beat!
Going to take care of my sled & sleep for a few hours before heading to Muni!
The 9 hour drive doesn't sound so great, but the snow sure does!!!
Will send asap after I return from Muni!
Have a number of orders, will fill them in the order they came in. (Accounting for VIP status with-in the day.)
Will do so also with ones that come in while I am gone.
Am beat!
Going to take care of my sled & sleep for a few hours before heading to Muni!
The 9 hour drive doesn't sound so great, but the snow sure does!!!
Sasquatch
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Paypal sent!
Now Yamaha engineers will know how to fix them? LOL
Rock,
I know your most likely sawing logs right now. Just wanted to pop in and say nice work. I have not been around at all because as you well know first hand, this remote start has consumed my life...not to mention I have a real job (not that anything is getting done there)
Anyhow, if we can hook up on Monday after you do the Muni ride let me know. You have my number and hopefully I will have some sort of cell signal. (not sure since I have a new carrier this year and have not been up to the UP with it yet)
If I had planned things better I would have shot up to Muni to meet you and some of the other guys as I will have the proto of the remote start in the Apex... but this trip was kinda planned back a ways with a few long time riding buddies and one is a cat guy and the other is on a doo, so I am sure there not really interested in the Muni thing...lol
Anyhow, good luck on the hot hands and I am sure they will work great. You seem to know your electronics...
Thanks for thinking of us on the bypass wire. That should be a slick set up with the remote start. I THINK I did the rockerdan mod on my sled. All I know is I bought a set of 06 bars and threw them on my 07. Have not had a lick of time to try them since I have been using a buddies apex to test the remote start on. But I will know this week what the deal its on my bars. I'm thinking of throwing my 07 bars back on since the hooks are heated too (i think) and then running your set up.
With some luck we should see connectors around the 24th!
Ride safe in Muni and I will chat with ya soon!
SD
I know your most likely sawing logs right now. Just wanted to pop in and say nice work. I have not been around at all because as you well know first hand, this remote start has consumed my life...not to mention I have a real job (not that anything is getting done there)
Anyhow, if we can hook up on Monday after you do the Muni ride let me know. You have my number and hopefully I will have some sort of cell signal. (not sure since I have a new carrier this year and have not been up to the UP with it yet)
If I had planned things better I would have shot up to Muni to meet you and some of the other guys as I will have the proto of the remote start in the Apex... but this trip was kinda planned back a ways with a few long time riding buddies and one is a cat guy and the other is on a doo, so I am sure there not really interested in the Muni thing...lol
Anyhow, good luck on the hot hands and I am sure they will work great. You seem to know your electronics...
Thanks for thinking of us on the bypass wire. That should be a slick set up with the remote start. I THINK I did the rockerdan mod on my sled. All I know is I bought a set of 06 bars and threw them on my 07. Have not had a lick of time to try them since I have been using a buddies apex to test the remote start on. But I will know this week what the deal its on my bars. I'm thinking of throwing my 07 bars back on since the hooks are heated too (i think) and then running your set up.
With some luck we should see connectors around the 24th!
Ride safe in Muni and I will chat with ya soon!
SD
