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YAMAHEATER Nice Warm Hands for 03 - Current Yamaha 4 Strokes

You could stock inventory in Canada.

Perhaps there is someone in Canada who would be willing to stock them and ship them out for you for a small fee?
 

Blue Dave said:
You could stock inventory in Canada.

Perhaps there is someone in Canada who would be willing to stock them and ship them out for you for a small fee?

Have considered that and have no problem with it.

Just want to make sure whomever does it is Very dependable & Very responsive.
 
Rock,

Have you ever thought about using dealers to sell your product?

Perhaps Yamaha wouldn't be happy with a dealer selling an aftermarket fix to their design problem!
 
Blue Dave said:
Rock,

Have you ever thought about using dealers to sell your product?

Perhaps Yamaha wouldn't be happy with a dealer selling an aftermarket fix to their design problem!

Hi Dave!

Yamaha has been pretty good about their dealers selling the Yamaheater actually.
Pretty sure they would rather have happy customers without a risk of hurting the sleds.

Have multiple dealers in the US already, can see here:
www.yamaheater.com Look under DEALERS.

Dealer inquiries from Canada & elsewhere are welcome!
 
Having a Canadian dealer would solve your problem as long as they were willing to carry a sufficient inventory.

I did not see my local dealer Waldoch Sports (home of Hay Days) on your dealer list. I know the guys there so I will let them know about your product as well as Kurt's Sled Start. I will give both products my recommendation.
 
Blue Dave said:
Having a Canadian dealer would solve your problem as long as they were willing to carry a sufficient inventory.

Yes & no, depends on if they are willing to ship all over & do it responsibly in a timely manner.
(Obviously this is very important to me.)

Some dealers simply don't want to ship all over & are not really set-up to do it. Some are. So have to find one that is.

For now am looking at doing all shipments outside of the US as Express Mail shipments, to get them there in a timely manner.
(Post office has to refund postage if they take too long, gives them an incentive to get things moving.)
The upfront cost to me is significant with this option, so won't be decided lightly, but may be the best way to fix the problem.

Right now Customs is slow, and so is our season, however as we get into our season, this amount of delay time with customs is simply unacceptable.
 
I've ordered things from the States several times and am always prepared for a delay at customs. It usually sits there for a few days. It usually takes about 2 weeks.

The quickest shipping service experience I've ever had was earlier this year ordering a motorcycle luggage box from JC Whitney...took about 5 days, I was impressed. Plus the shipping was minimal, same with duties and brokerage fee, which were paid all up front, no fee at the door, impressive.

They ship by using a Freight Forwarder, what ever that means. All I know is that it was quick and cheap, no surprises at the door. Might be something to look into.
 
Just a suggestion, or perhaps I dont understand... The little switch possibly mounted as a rubber button so to speak on the box itself, thus no need to cut holes in the dash?
Could also put the LED on that box itself since you would only need to turn it off for storage correct?

Now with this on, it wont kill the battery at all, or does the LED go out when the sled is not running.

Sorry one more question, in your directions you have listed that "Set bars on display to zero using existing handlebar controls.
LED should now be RED indicating full heat to grips. "

Am I understanding that right? So the bars on the display are at zero when the grips are on full so they work backwards?

Sorry if I am being dumb. :o|
 
I did not mount my switch because all it does is allow zero bars to be completely off (just like stock). I am thinking that one bar will be low enough for me even on warm days. If not, I can access the switch under the hood on a really warm day.

Yes, you understand it correctly, zero bars turns the Yamaheater on full and turns the LED red. The Yamaheater has a connection to your headlight circuit so it knows when your sled is off and therefore will shut off and will not drain the battery.
 
x2thez said:
Just a suggestion, or perhaps I don't understand... The little switch possibly mounted as a rubber button so to speak on the box itself, thus no need to cut holes in the dash?
Could also put the LED on that box itself since you would only need to turn it off for storage correct?
Now with this on, it wont kill the battery at all, or does the LED go out when the sled is not running.
Sorry one more question, in your directions you have listed that "Set bars on display to zero using existing handlebar controls.
LED should now be RED indicating full heat to grips. "
Am I understanding that right? So the bars on the display are at zero when the grips are on full so they work backwards?|

Dave is correct.
You can definitely ty-wrap the switch on the unit itself.
Just make sure you leave it set to "on".

Have also considered making the switch part of the unit itself.
The concern is that if the switch fails, it would not be replaceable as it is now.

The YamaHeater will NOT run down your battery, the YamaHeater draws NO current when your sled is off even when the switch is on.

The YamaHeater adds a setting by replacing your current off setting with a High Heat setting that actually works! : )

Usually you use your New High Heat setting to start off your rides, then use the existing blue switch on your bars to go to a factory setting of 4-7 bars.
The factory settings do Not provide enough warmth to "catch up" and warm your hands.
(That's why with the factory set-up you usually start out every ride cold & freeze throughout.)
However, the factory settings DO provide enough to "keep up" once your hands and bars are warmed by your New High Heat setting.

If you do not wish to drill a hole to mount the LED, you can simply leave it clamped in one of the cowling seams so that you can see it.
The LED is very useful to let you know what setting you are in, without having to take your eyes off the trail.
(It tells you by color & you can see it in your peripheral vision.)

Hope this helps!

Rockmeister :-o
 
Ok I think I understand for the most part but so lets say there are 7 factory settings, are these 7 factory settings warmer with this kit than without?

So to put them on full heat, you put them basically off correct? That is according to the display.

So a normal ride would go, start it up, put them to 0 bars, thus red light, and full heat.

Then once sled is warmed up, you can back them down to 1 or 2 bars correct?

Now what if I dont do that, what if I just start the sled up and since it remmebers where it was last, it was on 3 lets say, they will still get warm right? Just not as fast or as quickly?
 
x2thez said:
Ok I think I understand for the most part but so lets say there are 7 factory settings, are these 7 factory settings warmer with this kit than without?
Yes & no, not directly warmer, but will feel warmer because they can now "keep up".

So to put them on full heat, you put them basically off correct? That is according to the display.
Yes, and the LED will turn RED letting you know you are in High Heat Mode.

So a normal ride would go, start it up, put them to 0 bars, thus red light, and full heat.
Then once sled is warmed up, you can back them down to 1 or 2 bars correct?
Yes, except will usually use 4-7 bars (Depends on air temp & speed), you will find a setting that works great.

Now what if I dont do that, what if I just start the sled up and since it remmebers where it was last, it was on 3 lets say, they will still get warm right? Just not as fast or as quickly?
You will ride with cold hands as you always have. lol
You will want to start out every ride in High Heat mode then back off the heat when your bars and hands are warm. (Usually warm before you even start riding, your grips will warm fast in High Heat Mode).
You will find a setting 4-7 bars that works great for the conditions.
.
(If you have a SLEDSTART remote start, it will remember this for you and automatically set your bars to High Heat for you.)

Note: The High Heat setting will be too Warm to leave on full time in all but the coldest conditions.
The factory settings can actually keep up once you start out with the bars warm.
When the bars cool off, like after a break, you have to use the High Heat setting to Warm them again.
 
I did not want to drill any holes in my sled so I tie wrapped the switch under the hood as I mentioned above and I let the LED stick out of the factory wire loom.

In the pictures you can see it barely sticking out of the left hand wire loom.
 

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