geez150
Expert
The thing I never understood with Yamaha specs are the different weights for synthetic vs. semi. Whenever I have looked at other owners manuals whether it be a truck, lawn mower, etc. They all spec out one weight never seperates it based on oil make up. Guess the point being is why two different weight? Many of you are running full synthetic 30w with no issues to date and I'm sure the same would be had for semi or straight conventional 40w.
Sledroll
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This is all good info , but it looks like it is going to be a looooong off season on TY .The thing I never understood with Yamaha specs are the different weights for synthetic vs. semi. Whenever I have looked at other owners manuals whether it be a truck, lawn mower, etc. They all spec out one weight never seperates it based on oil make up. Guess the point being is why two different weight? Many of you are running full synthetic 30w with no issues to date and I'm sure the same would be had for semi or straight conventional 40w.
Who is going to take over / fill the void from Dan , now that he has decided to take a sabbatical from the 4 stroke turbo world ?
Not wanting to get off topic on this post , my question is.
If I have gone 195 kph , with the current oil in my chain case , how fast can I expect to go on one run in same conditions with NO oil in the crankcase ?

ROCKERDAN
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I'll be here either way brother.....Gotta keep up with all the latest fixes for the 998s, so I'm ready for the next turbo!This is all good info , but it looks like it is going to be a looooong off season on TY .
Who is going to take over / fill the void from Dan , now that he has decided to take a sabbatical from the 4 stroke turbo world ?
Not wanting to get off topic on this post , my question is.
If I have gone 195 kph , with the current oil in my chain case , how fast can I expect to go on one run in same conditions with NO oil in the crankcase ?
lol
Dan
geez150
Expert
I guess I missed something here. Dan are you moving in from the 998T going 900 ace turbo next season?
I'll be here either way brother.....Gotta keep up with all the latest fixes for the 998s, so I'm ready for the next turbo!
lol
Dan

KnappAttack
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This is all good info , but it looks like it is going to be a looooong off season on TY .
Who is going to take over / fill the void from Dan , now that he has decided to take a sabbatical from the 4 stroke turbo world ?
Not wanting to get off topic on this post , my question is.
If I have gone 195 kph , with the current oil in my chain case , how fast can I expect to go on one run in same conditions with NO oil in the crankcase ?
Thats a good question. Try it and see. Let us know the answer to that.
This is all good info , but it looks like it is going to be a looooong off season on TY .
Who is going to take over / fill the void from Dan , now that he has decided to take a sabbatical from the 4 stroke turbo world ?
Not wanting to get off topic on this post , my question is.
If I have gone 195 kph , with the current oil in my chain case , how fast can I expect to go on one run in same conditions with NO oil in the crankcase ?
Back in the day....I was banging heads all race day against a Pro 5 650 Indy drag sled from Minnesota. I was running my home built 1990 650 Indy Improved stock sled.
The Pro 5 sled ran an open chaincase with no cover and no obvious chain lube so they could quickly swap gears between heats.
I won all my heats that day until the final and the Pro 5 sled won the day...so I guess it can be done, although I have never seen it since.
Sledroll
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So oil of any kind is over rated in certain conditions !Back in the day....I was banging heads all race day against a Pro 5 650 Indy drag sled from Minnesota. I was running my home built 1990 650 Indy Improved stock sled.
The Pro 5 sled ran an open chaincase with no cover and no obvious chain lube so they could quickly swap gears between heats.
I won all my heats that day until the final and the Pro 5 sled won the day...so I guess it can be done, although I have never seen it since.

stevewithOCD
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This is all good info , but it looks like it is going to be a looooong off season on TY .
Who is going to take over / fill the void from Dan , now that he has decided to take a sabbatical from the 4 stroke turbo world ?
Not wanting to get off topic on this post , my question is.
If I have gone 195 kph , with the current oil in my chain case , how fast can I expect to go on one run in same conditions with NO oil in the crankcase ?
Some underfunded NASCAR teams, that were just trying to make Daytona, actually would drain the rear end oil before Qualifying.
They needed a tenth of a second to make the race so they had nothing to lose.
If they made the race they would add oil, but would start in the back.

74Nitro
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Maybe they were underfunded because they were not very smart. I absolutely can see switching from a gear oil to very thin oil. I'm not an engineer but I'd have to think that running dry would create more friction and drag than running with a thin oil.Some underfunded NASCAR teams, that were just trying to make Daytona, actually would drain the rear end oil before Qualifying.
They needed a tenth of a second to make the race so they had nothing to lose.
If they made the race they would add oil, but would start in the back.
When I was a young lad I had a 1972 Mazda field car. One time we were bombing through a bush trail, the front end bottomed hard and poked a hole in the oil filter. The car ran for about another 700ft, then tightened up.
Fast
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Mike will the semi synthetic yamalube 0w30 be ok for the turbo been hearing it could damage the turbo bearingsFound the same effect on my old RX-1, after all, who would think someone would actually feel it in the seat of the pants right? Well I did, and I just knew it felt lame with the 40 weight oil in there. When I couldn't outrun my buddys 800 REV I knew my butt dyno was accurate, because I could always out run him before, so we both came back to my place and I drained that 40 weight oil and filled er up with 30 weight oil. Low and behold the power came back and I knew it right away, we lined up and see you latter 800 Rev, away I went driving away from him agian.
These guys can go ahead and put the 40 weight stuff in and ride around with less power, but just wanted to warn them it will be like putting the brakes on the engines power. It's not fake news, but real news. Some will listen and some will not, but the Winder does not need 40 weight oil in it that is certain.
Some people just don't understand fluid dynamics, and some do. I just flat out takes more power to pump a higher viscosity oil than is needed. Pro stock cars run straight 0 or 2 weight oil for a reason! Why give up power when you don't have to right?

KnappAttack
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Mike will the semi synthetic yamalube 0w30 be ok for the turbo been hearing it could damage the turbo bearings
IMO it’s fine. Just let the turbo cool a bit and idle for 30 seconds to a minute before shutdown.
I run full synthetic 5-30 myself, but feel semi in yamalube just fine.
Fast
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Well just got off the phone with yamaha and they state to use 0w30 semi synthethic to honour the 20 year warranty, go figureFound this and thought i would share it, yamaha specialists are encouraging us to use 0w40
Randy Strickler
I agree that it is somewhat confusing that the owner’s manual tells you to use 0W-30 weight oil, but the dealer has some 0W-40 on the shelf. I checked with Yamaha’s lubricant specialist on this one to be very certain, and he confirmed that the full-synthetic 0W-40 can indeed be used in any of Yamaha’s four-stroke snowmobiles. In fact, he encouraged it. While the semi-synthetic 0W-30 is a very good oil, as you pointed out it has a cold pumpability specification down to -40 F. The full-synthetic 0W-40 will perform even better in cold conditions and has a cold pumpability specification of down to -60 F. That means whatever temperature it is outside when you go to start your sled, the full-synthetic will start flowing quicker and easier.
As an extra benefit, the full-synthetic is ester fortified, which is going to provide superior protection under high RPM conditions and high heat loads and is part of the reason the full-synthetic costs more. Ester has a little bit of polarity so it sticks to the metal parts. Another cool benefit is how when more pressure is applied to it, the more slippery it gets. The engine parts will stay very clean as this oil is very low in sulfated ash, so you won’t be seeing a bunch of sludge in the engine like with some other full-synthetic oils. This is the good stuff, and there is no better oil you can buy to protect your investment. This is what we use in our Yamaha four-strokes.
Fast
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Hang on for the new 4 stroke 850 2 cylinder turbo from yamaha light weight rocketI'll be here either way brother.....Gotta keep up with all the latest fixes for the 998s, so I'm ready for the next turbo!
lol
Dan


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Good info here guys! I probably would not have run 40w anyways but I will likely be changing the oil this fall on my Winder and it will get full synthetic 5W-30. I ran the Mobil One 5w-30 for several years in my Attak with great success.
Funny the Penzoil was ranked 1st but yes it's synthetic so different than regular Penzoil..... always stayed away from their non synthetic oil back in the day. Totally different subject but I felt that way with Quaker State too with the waxy paraffin base. I had two vehicles give me trouble with Quaker State with engine sludge build up and I always changed oil and filter every 3,000 miles.
Funny the Penzoil was ranked 1st but yes it's synthetic so different than regular Penzoil..... always stayed away from their non synthetic oil back in the day. Totally different subject but I felt that way with Quaker State too with the waxy paraffin base. I had two vehicles give me trouble with Quaker State with engine sludge build up and I always changed oil and filter every 3,000 miles.
PigeonLake
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Dealer is adamant about cold starting advantages of 0 40. Will stay with that. More concerned with reliability and longevity than a few mph on top end
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