• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

03 RX-1 top end rebuild

tpayner19

Veteran
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
49
Location
Westfield, IN
Is there a thread on a top-end rebuild for an 03 RX-1 (preferably with pics)? Done 2 stroke rebuilds, will this be much different (take carbs and air box off, drain coolant, remove head and cylinders and reverse for assembly)?

Thanks.

Todd
Westfield, IN
 

You actually wore out a yamaha 4 stroke engine?

Its going to be far, far more work, as you have the timing chain to deal with. Don't personally know, but it might be easier to pull the engine to do the work, which is no small task either.
 
I just did a Venture. What experience do you have as a mechanic? It isn't really any different than any other 4 stroke (car/truck) but there are a couple things to watch for. I am just off 421 and sr32. What is wrong that you need to pull the head?
 
I blew 2 motors up and while I had them out to replace them I tore them down to see if anything was salvageable and let me tell you its not like tearing down a big block mopar. These things are like a jig saw puzzle.
 
As Yamadog said these are not your average North American big blocks.
For example there are very specific torquing procedures that must be followed. I would suggest you acquire a shop manual for it before attempting anything.

We just finished rebuilding a Vector motor that seized a crank bearing, and it was a steep learning curve to re-assemble it properly.
 
Hardest part is getting the valves adjusted corectly and they do have to be precise. The clearances in the bottom end are closer than any engine I have ever seen. The torque on the bottom case is critical also......unless you are expert level mechanic I would not advise you to try. :)
 
Thanks for the replies. The sled is blowing oil out of the exhaust. Research has led me to believe it is a ring issue on the '03. Figured a new top end is the cure. Sounds like a pass on the job. It's an uncles sled so I will let him know to keep checking the oil level and it should be ok.

Thanks again.
 
Good idea, let it go! If it were using more then a quart every 1k miles I might worry, but if under it would not be worth the hassel. Just tell him he is getting fresh oil added through out the season, a bouns! Mine and my sons uses about a quart each season, wifes uses none. At least you dont have to add oil with each fill up like the old two stroke days.
:jump: :rocks: :yam: :4STroke:
 
Well, if you think it is a ring issue you wouldn't want to do the top end. You would want to put rings in and hone the cylinders.
 
Try a fuel additive like Yamalube with Ring Free to unstick those rings.
Worked for me when I had some oil consumption issues.
 
It's an 03 and they had ring issues. I have to top up my oil about every 300 miles. I have put on 5000 mile since I got the sled and it has always burned oil. It has 15,000 miles on it now and I drive the crap out of it and it still runs great. It will blow carbon specs out the exhaust on start up but thats it. The way I look at it is at least there will always be fresh oil in it. I tried ring free, seafoam, 0w40 amsoil, 0w40 mobil 1 european formula, and nothing worked. This year I am trying quaker state high milage 5w30 conventional oil. The manual calls for 5w30 conventional oil, I'm just hoping the "high milage" formula will do what it says on the jug and slow down the oil consumption. Not sure if it will help or not but it is alot cheaper to burn up at $20/4 liter than the other $15/liter synthetic. It used to bother me and I too was thinking of a top end rering but come to the conclusion of why fix something that isn't broke. Keep adding oil and have fun on it. My buddy was laughing at my sled for using oil and spitting out carbon upon start up, 2 weeks later his brand new polaris 750 turbo 4 stroke blew up. He didn't laugh much after that.
 


Back
Top