ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
NY_Nytro said:supercat said:
Look just below the torsion spring arm, it's the round stopper mounted on the rail.
What happens as the rear skid gets close to bottoming the torsion spring will contact the stopper and cause an increase in the spring rate. There are three holes in the rails for soft/med/hard stopper settings.
In that picture they are in the medium position. The slightly lower hole, two holes back from where the "stopper" is mounted is where the 3rd pair of idler wheels mounts.
Yea i had to buy mine too! But you guys will love them BIG TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Skydog
Skydog
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Are they just a bolt on mod? Looks like a three second install
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
Kevin Garceau said:
Yes the holes are already there. So it's a minute add-on with the parts.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
OK great, anyone know the yami part number?
It appears to be three holes Im guessing the first hole would be stiffer as the torsion spring would be coupling up to it quicker, and the further back one would give more travel...
It appears to be three holes Im guessing the first hole would be stiffer as the torsion spring would be coupling up to it quicker, and the further back one would give more travel...
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
Kevin Garceau said:
Check this thread 1st page
Anti bottom
Can someone post a picture that shows the anti stoppers and extra wheels in the skid that was supposedly in the Yamaha brochure?
Thanks,
XCR5
Can someone post a picture that shows the anti stoppers and extra wheels in the skid that was supposedly in the Yamaha brochure?
Thanks,
XCR5
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: Anti bottom
The stoppers are pictured in the pic earlier in this post, but I haven't seen a pic with the extra wheels
xcr5 said:
The stoppers are pictured in the pic earlier in this post, but I haven't seen a pic with the extra wheels
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: 3rd pair of wheels
I'll try to take some pictures, but they are shown in the owners manual for the 07 RTX as well as in the Yamaha on-line fiche for the 07 RTX.
Here I grabbed the image from the on-line fiche. Click on the image for a larger view:
NY_Nytro said:
I'll try to take some pictures, but they are shown in the owners manual for the 07 RTX as well as in the Yamaha on-line fiche for the 07 RTX.
Here I grabbed the image from the on-line fiche. Click on the image for a larger view:
Attachments
Blue Oval
Expert
I'm getting a set, $ 70 for the two
berge75
Expert
If you guy's are interested I'll make up some sets of stopers for $30 a set? $70 is way overpriced
Bradford
Expert
I just ordered a set as well for my Nytro. Just one question... If they are so good and being such a cheap item (Yamahas cost would only be a few bucks), why are they not on the sled from the factory? Did they cause other issues?
Brad
Brad
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I might have found a reason not to run the anti-bottomers.
Today I went out riding and the sled seemed like absolute perfection with everything, including the suspension behaving perfectly and soaking up the rough trails - until...
I hit an unforseen bump on the other side of a dip. It wasn't what I would consider a huge hit, but it did bottom out the rear suspension (I was sitting down and it didn't hurt me). This was the first time I had bottomed out the suspension with the anti-bottomers installed.
From that moment on the sled was acting like the rear shock had failed. The rear was bouncing all over the place with lots of kick back over bumps.
When I went to crank up the shock to try to compensate I found the rear suspension was sitting a good 4" lower with me on it than it did when I measured it in my garage (with no ice build up at the time). I already had the torsion springs on the high setting so I couldn't crank them up. The anti-bottomers were in the middle position. I've checked the sled over and everything is fine except the torsion springs seem to have lost some of their preload.
Since the anti-bottomers "twist" the torsion springs more than the springs would without them this might cause them to permanently lose some of their preload. With the anti-bottomers almost always being used now, the shock couldn't handle the effectively stiffer spring causing the kick back.
I ended up cranking the shock up to control the kick back and the sled still handled the bumps well for the rest of the day - but the ride was no longer what I would consider a comfortable cruising ride. When night fell my headlight was in the trees and needed to be adjusted also.
Have any of you noticed your sled sitting lower or needing to adjust your headlight since installing the anti-bottomers?
Today I went out riding and the sled seemed like absolute perfection with everything, including the suspension behaving perfectly and soaking up the rough trails - until...
I hit an unforseen bump on the other side of a dip. It wasn't what I would consider a huge hit, but it did bottom out the rear suspension (I was sitting down and it didn't hurt me). This was the first time I had bottomed out the suspension with the anti-bottomers installed.
From that moment on the sled was acting like the rear shock had failed. The rear was bouncing all over the place with lots of kick back over bumps.
When I went to crank up the shock to try to compensate I found the rear suspension was sitting a good 4" lower with me on it than it did when I measured it in my garage (with no ice build up at the time). I already had the torsion springs on the high setting so I couldn't crank them up. The anti-bottomers were in the middle position. I've checked the sled over and everything is fine except the torsion springs seem to have lost some of their preload.
Since the anti-bottomers "twist" the torsion springs more than the springs would without them this might cause them to permanently lose some of their preload. With the anti-bottomers almost always being used now, the shock couldn't handle the effectively stiffer spring causing the kick back.
I ended up cranking the shock up to control the kick back and the sled still handled the bumps well for the rest of the day - but the ride was no longer what I would consider a comfortable cruising ride. When night fell my headlight was in the trees and needed to be adjusted also.
Have any of you noticed your sled sitting lower or needing to adjust your headlight since installing the anti-bottomers?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
A little update.
I went back out to my heated garage where a literal flood of water has melted off the sled plus many huge ice chunks from the tunnel (300 miles worth of ice).
Now measuring the sag with me on the sled exactly the way I did it a few days ago (no ice) I found its actually only sitting about 1" lower than it was (when new). I figure this could mostly be expected as the springs break in (in my case they "broke in" rather quickly so I noticed the change).
Still - adding probably 30-50 lbs of ice and then loosing 1" worth of preload was enough to give me 7-8" worth of sag and make the anti-bottomers and shock work overtime. Right now it only sags about 4" with me on it which I figure is about right.
I can see why you guys are finding this sled is bottoming out (once the ice builds up at least).
It looks like for long distance cruising (lots of ice build up) with a 200+ lbs rider, especially with loaded saddle bags, that this sled is going to need heavier rear springs or ones with more preload if I don't want it to be almost constantly on the anti-bottomers.
Since the current spring rates seems about right, is there any other way (aftermarket, etc.) to increase the pre-load on the torsion springs?
I went back out to my heated garage where a literal flood of water has melted off the sled plus many huge ice chunks from the tunnel (300 miles worth of ice).
Now measuring the sag with me on the sled exactly the way I did it a few days ago (no ice) I found its actually only sitting about 1" lower than it was (when new). I figure this could mostly be expected as the springs break in (in my case they "broke in" rather quickly so I noticed the change).
Still - adding probably 30-50 lbs of ice and then loosing 1" worth of preload was enough to give me 7-8" worth of sag and make the anti-bottomers and shock work overtime. Right now it only sags about 4" with me on it which I figure is about right.
I can see why you guys are finding this sled is bottoming out (once the ice builds up at least).
It looks like for long distance cruising (lots of ice build up) with a 200+ lbs rider, especially with loaded saddle bags, that this sled is going to need heavier rear springs or ones with more preload if I don't want it to be almost constantly on the anti-bottomers.
Since the current spring rates seems about right, is there any other way (aftermarket, etc.) to increase the pre-load on the torsion springs?
Not for nothing, but I'm tired of Yamaha telling us this is the rough trail suspension, only to find that its too soft. For the life of me, I can't understand why they can't build a suspension for the hammerheads. Im 80% pleased with my GT after a respring and a revalve, but the heavy stuff, it still just doesn't cut it. I'd be torqued if I spent money on this new suspension and it was still too soft. Has anyone tried a revalve yet, or heavier springs, seems like the more logical fix? Bump stoppers may be an improvement, but it seems like we're just masking the problem. Not a bash, just an observation....
