2005 RS Rage - Starter Replacement

[Bill-winnipesaukee]

Hello All,
Wanted to share, as your posts and pictures have been immensely helpful. Here's the situation:
- End of season ride, shut down the machine on the trail, wouldn't do anything to start, grabbed jumper cables, no luck, towed home
- Using multi-meter, confirmed voltage coming from solenoid just fine, appeared to be a short in the starter, by testing with multi-meter at the load post of the starter (after draining oil, removing filter for access to starter)
- Start reading posts, amazed at the size of the job to replace the starter - freak out a couple of times!

Here's how it worked out (at least thru the removal, have ordered one, and will put an update after installation)
- Lift sled (on 2 levels of concrete blocks works well, you will need to access the starter from the bottom)
- Drain oil & remove filter - main drain AND side oil
- Starter bolts - remove starter wire if not already, remove the 2 bolts holding starter in place, bottom bolt may not come out before moving starter
- Remove hood (will be in the way - 2 electrical clips, 4 bolts)
- Remove Airbox (loosen carb clamps, and 2 hoses on airbox 1 to side, 1 below)
- Remove front tool box for access
- Remove battery, then the battery frame (side bolts and lower frame and electronic unit which can stay)
- I found helpful to remove the ground wire for ease, which secures to the engine mount, and will need to be removed
- Remove steering from the frame (undo clips from front where toolbox provides access w long needle nose, easy bolt removal) - this allows the steering to move out of the way when you tilt the engine
- Detach the side oil (oil fill / sensor) from the frame & engine mount on front (may need the side panel off for this, and should have already to drain the oil)
- Loosen the Motor mount bolts, i actually removed the nut / washer from both outside ends at this point
- Loosen the motor mount bolts now, simply breaking them so they won't be a problem when your lifting mechanism might make it harder, keep them in, they are still holding the motor at this point.
- Figure out how you are going to hold / lift the engine, their are 2 sets of lifting points that you can use, i used the front / lower ones (super easy with an engine lift, or hoist of some sort
- Take weight off of the mounts, by lightly lifting the motor
- Remove the mount bolts and / or slide out the bolts if you can (i needed to take off the mounts to get the bolts out...)
- Lift the engine, noting that the front right side hits the frame pretty quickly, it is enough (will show how i did that in a separate post in this thread)
- From underneath, use a flat screw driver to pry it loose, and wiggle it out. You should not need to remove the coolant hose that is underneath, you can get by bringing it out with some pulling and pushing of the hose

 

[Bill-winnipesaukee]

Here's how i lifted the motor
- Got a simple tie down strap (500 lb rated, 1500 lb break strength did fine)
- Needs simple / single hook on each end to fit in lifting points
- Ideally has a good handle to let you lift the motor directly with the strap, i initially pried it with a 2x4 and broke the strap (hitting front right frame trying to lift too much)
- I used 2 2x4's and 1 2x3 screwed together with some small 2 x4 pieces to get high enough over the frame to use the strap to lift

- Initially - simply tighten in place
- then remove mounts / mounting bolts
- Use strap to lift - the exhaust flexes in the back to accommodate this lift (not a lot, and right front frame hits motor first)
- I lowered with the strap while i am waiting for the parts...

 

[Bill-winnipesaukee]

Pictures from an album i have posted...

SideOilTankBeforeWork - Unbolt The Top, And The Engine Mount2

• Bill-winnipesaukee
• Dec 29, 2018

ViewofSteeringDisconnectedfromFrame

• Bill-winnipesaukee
• Dec 29, 2018

SteeringandLeftMotorMountGoodPic

• Bill-winnipesaukee
• Dec 29, 2018

StarterOutfrombelow2

• Bill-winnipesaukee
• Dec 29, 2018

 

[Bill-winnipesaukee]

Hello All - Got the new starter, i am a bit confused. I expected that if i used jumper cables to connect the case of the starter to the negative, and the post touching the positive, the starter would turn. It does not, it only sparks, which is effectively, the same as what i experienced with the old starter. Does anyone know if i got a bad starter, or if i am doing something wrong? Does anyone have a suggestion on how to confirm the starter is good? I purchased an aftermarket one for 80 bucks, so maybe it is bad...

 

[Bill-winnipesaukee]

Update - well, after procrastinating on the install due to the failed bench test, i put it in to see. To my surprise, it turns over. Will finish putting it all back together, and putting oil back in to see if we are ready to ride!

 

[Benwest]

Great post, thanks for the detailed explanation. Currently working to fix my 2007 vector

 

[TinMule]

Hi,

What would be the best way to "check" the wire connection to the starter?

Click from the solonoid
Jumped the starter and no movement at the starter

I was to check the connection at the starter - where would I go do this? (removed air box / battery)

 

[maim]

starter comes out rear by oil filter on rs sleds. you need to come at it from the bottom.

 

[DGZRT]

I can tell you this from my experience buy a new OEM starter relay and replace it . Mine looked good but was full of green when I took it apart .

 

[TinMule]

Thanks... I jumped the relay by going from bat + to the cable is going to the starter (at the solenoid). (nada sound aside from few sparks)
I was reading another thread where the cable to the starter should be checked.

will check it out via the port on the bottom (crossing fingers)

 

[green53]

Hi, please open up your old starter and report back if the magnets came loose from the casing. As well, was the drive end good, no missing teeth? There has been a lot of bad starter motors that broke idler gear teeth, as me how I know,,,

 

[TinMule]

While looking through the the oil filter port, I can't seem to see the cable going to the starter motor... but a thought came to mind...
would it be advisable to remove the belly by drilling out the rivets to gain access to the starter?

 

[TinMule]

Update - well, after procrastinating on the install due to the failed bench test, i put it in to see. To my surprise, it turns over. Will finish putting it all back together, and putting oil back in to see if we are ready to ride!

Simply a big THANKS Bill for taking the time to build this post.
I followed these steps and was able to get a replacement starter in the 09 RS Venture.

NOT FOR THE FAINT AT HEART! I had a hired hand and we got stuck on putting-in the new starter. There is only one way that it goes in
Armature pointing up
Aim for the motor - like you want to push it through the engine
help it fall to the right - after you pushed it over/passed the "ridge" on the engine casing.

Thanks to Larry at Larry's Powerports in Warren, ON for agreeing to help me on this job.

 

[TinMule]

I can tell you this from my experience buy a new OEM starter relay and replace it . Mine looked good but was full of green when I took it apart .

Will do - new starter is in BUT there are still issues
Will be changing the relay.

 

[TinMule]

Will do - new starter is in BUT there are still issues
Will be changing the relay.

Update

Relay was also fried.
Replaced with OEM
the Mule now starts by simply looking at the key switch!

Bench tested the old stater... dead. (i didn't open in up yet)
will have it repaired / rebuild as a spare