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2009 Nytro Front End+ Rebuild

Hooray!

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Aug 12, 2017
Messages
707
Location
Maine USA
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2009 Yamaha FX Nytro XTX
1998 Yamaha VMAX 700 XTC
First I want to thank everyone for the fantastic information posted here, great resource to learn from each other's experiences, good, bad and ugly. I have been riding a 1998 700 VMAX XTC for ten years, love the redhead triple, always makes me smile but excited about this winter and a 2009 FX Nytro XTX. I have been reading threads here since December when my brother in law suggested he was selling it in the spring at a price I could not pass up. First order of business is rebuilding the front end, I considered the MoutainTech replacement A-arms but that is outside my budget, have less than $1000 to work with for this year including front end, skis, carbides, tunnel supports, tank bag, rear bag and HIDs.

A few questions:

1. FRONT END PARTS: What front end parts were improved on later model year nytros that will work on my 2009? I am going with the Ulmer Racing bushings and potentially the UP Bushman spindles and the balance stock Yamaha parts. Is there an improvement going with the 2013 three piece ball joint vs. the 2009 on piece ball joint (see pic) and using the revised collar in the upper A-arm as I plan to install some grease fittings on my 2009 era upper A-arms? Plus any other parts in the front end that I should consider aftermarket or a different year. A friend powder coated my A-arms, spindles and bumpers so front end will be murdered out when done.

2. SKIS: I know a subject of great debate, the Curves are at the top of my list but blow my budget so I am leaning towards Yamaha Tuner Skis, Woody's 4" 60 degree carbide Extender III (outside runners), Woody's 6" 60 degree carbide Trail Blazer iV (inside runners) , Bergstrom 3/8" shims and Ski Savers. I don't see another ski option that keeps me around $350 (at least for this season) so I can get UP Bushman spindles but maybe that is the wrong attitude to take...

3. TUNNEL: Installing the 2013 "patches" that go where the small cracks form on the tunnel, again the full length braces are budget breakers.

4. YAMAHA TANK BAG: Putting the same bag Grizz has a thread about on his trail tank as this sled has one as well. It came with a Yamaha rear rack and plan to get a black 1 gallon spare tank to mount back there for "get home" fuel for someone. With the trail tank I don't see me running out between gas stations where I ride.

5. FLUIDS: I plan to go with Mobil 1 European 0-40 for the zinc and am up in the air on the coolant, chain case and filter. I noted one thread talked about "blue" coolant which is what Mercedes and BMW use as it contains special aluminum specific ingredients that regular green anti-freeze does not.

6. HIDS: Not sure yet on these or LEDs, several good threads here on HIDs but fewer on LEDs.

... thanks again for all comments and I hope this information is helpful to the next person with the same questions. Here is to hoping for an early winter in Maine!


2013balljoint.jpg
 

Ill start with HIDs, Way more distance then LEDs, so I prefer HIDS over LEDS. LEDS are bright just dont seem to have the projection distance.

Fluids, Synthetic is what I run mainly all Yama-Lube Products as well as the Blue Yama-Cool.

As far as Skis, love the curves with Slim-Jim Woodys.. Go with the most current front end parts, way better then any of the others.
 
Thanks, I went back through all the front end PNs and it looks like only four of the front end rebuild parts are updated from the 2009 to 2015 model year (red in attached). I also made a list of the other Yamaha maintenance items (oil, coolant, grease) I might be interested in to get them all in one place. Likely not saving too much going with non-Yamaha "equivalents" but I know there can be a lot of passion around a particular brand. I also sorted out the two oil change washers as that was not entirely clear from other threads so might help others with the same question. I know there a few good threads on HIDs here, will have to go find them, a "job" for another day... thanks again for your comments, wish I was riding today!

Nytro Front End PN Compare 2009 2015.jpg
 
The Ulmer Racing Oilite bushings are great replacements for the OEM bushings. They do not need greasing so the "updated collars" and zerk fitting are not necessary. UP Bushman's spindle bushings are also a great upgrade. As for the other parts you mention, they will only tighten up and give you back an 09 front end that needs help! I realize you are on a limited budget but moving the spindles forward and offering full adjustability to the front end makes the Nytro a different animal.
 
Thanks, makes it simpler not trying to put zerks on the upper A-arm, the metal likely was too thin so it would have been a project. You are right, I would love to get one your front end updates, sounds like it is the way to "fix" the geometry Yamaha should have designed in the first place!
 
Send me a pm with a complete list of parts you need. I will see what I can do for you!
 
Mountaintech, if next year or the year after I decide to purchase your A-arms, do all the stock parts I am buying this year work on yours? With the exception of the ball joint which appear to be in your pictures on the web. From what I have read, the geometry change is key to the next level of performance.
 
Updated PN list attached (PDF), as MountainTech noted the Ulmer Racing Oilite bushings don't require grease so I am not returning the 2009 Collar 1 (PN: 8HK-23373-00-00) but I am returning the single piece 2009 Ball Joint 2 for the 2014 three piece version.

Anyone know what the improvement is with the three piece ball joint?

I read through the FAQ threads and saw that some with 2008 Nytro's had to deal with shaving off the ball joints to fix the crazy first year Yamaha front end geometry, perhaps the 2014 three piece had further "corrections" or not allow the small $7.94 Collar 1's to be replaced when worn vs. the entire assembly. I plan to soak all these difficult to lubricate (and have the lubrication stay on) parts on the front end with Wurth HHS 2000 "High pressure resistant highly adhesive synthetic lubricating oil" spray used on German automobiles (source - BMW dealerships) when you need lubrication to stick (see back of can pic). I found it works well as it penetrates deep then a high pressure synthetic residue remains after the solvent evaporates and is there for a while and pseudo-waterproof.

HSS 2000 - Rear.jpg HSS 2000 - Front.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 2017-08-15 Nytro Front End Parts Order.pdf
    350.4 KB · Views: 438
MountainTech, what bulb do we have in our Nytro's? H4 like on an Apex?

I posted some information on HIDs under electrical (files below to keep in one place), going with the DDM Ultra HID Kit I think, 55w, 4500k hi/low.

$79: Ultra HID Kit
Ultra HID Kit.jpg Ultra HID Kit - Details.jpg

$59: DDM Plus HID Kit
DDM Plus HID Kit.jpg DDM Plus HID Kit - Details.jpg

$35: DDM HID Kit
DDM HID Kit.jpg DDM HID Kit - Details.jpg
 
Mountaintech, if next year or the year after I decide to purchase your A-arms, do all the stock parts I am buying this year work on yours? With the exception of the ball joint which appear to be in your pictures on the web. From what I have read, the geometry change is key to the next level of performance.

Yup. My A arms use their own ball joints that are way longer lasting, in fact I have yet to hear of one that needed changing. They are also less than $20 a piece if they ever need to be replaced. Mountain tech A arms also use OEM sized bushings to mount them to the chassis.
 
I cant upgrade the A-Arms this year, but can I install your ball joints on stock A-Arms?

When I do upgrade, it sounds like all the other Yamaha front end parts will cross over to yours.

Thanks for the information.
 
Mountaintech ball joints will not work on stock a arms. Mountaintech front end replaces the whole front end minus spindles and shocks. The stock front end is unadjustable, has spindles that are too short and too far to the rear.
 
Thanks, so in my rebuild this year, only the upper one piece ball joints (36/41) and three piece lower ball joints (22/26, 28) will be unused in your kit. You supply both of these (red circled) plus the upper shock mount hardware (yellow circled) plus the steering rods but not the end hardware on those I am replacing as well this year so everything else I purchase will be cross over from my 2017 rebuild... nice. I hope to find another person locally that has your A-arms so I can try them this winter.

SKI - 2014 Microfiche.jpg MountainTech A Arms.jpg
 


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