Drive shaft bearing bracket

[XP123]

This is what mine looks like.

 

[cannondale27]

View attachment 130362

This is what mine looks like.

Not perfect but should be okay. I think what’s happened is all 3 bolts weren’t put in loosely first. One was tightened without it being centered over other two bolt holes so when other are put in forces it to twist.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

So to actually grease this bearing, you need to remove that piece with the 3 bolts, and then you can see the bearing from under tunnel easily? just pop cap off and grease it?

No way to grease from outside of the tunnel on other side of bearing? Have not got my sled yet so hard to see this in my head.

thanks, good thread and always a great thing to maintain.

 

[XP123]

So to actually grease this bearing, you need to remove that piece with the 3 bolts, and then you can see the bearing from under tunnel easily? just pop cap off and grease it?

No way to grease from outside of the tunnel on other side of bearing? Have not got my sled yet so hard to see this in my head.

thanks, good thread and always a great thing to maintain.

I'm not sure how easy it would be to grease it from under the tunnel. You would have to remove the brake caliper and the bearing is in that assembly. I think if I'm going to repack that bearing I would remove the suspension and front cross bar and pull the caliper.

 

[yamaha06]

When I grease this bearing I remove the foot well bracket and the guard for the brake. The 3 bolts under the tunnel hold the brake assembly (caliper) on the sled, so remove those. Then I remove the circlip from the end of the shaft so you can slide off brake rotor and caliper all as one piece that way your not splitting your brake caliper. Once you have the rotor out of the way you can pop off the seal clean bearing and re-grease. And then reinstall.

 

[XP123]

When I grease this bearing I remove the foot well bracket and the guard for the brake. The 3 bolts under the tunnel hold the brake assembly (caliper) on the sled, so remove those. Then I remove the circlip from the end of the shaft so you can slide off brake rotor and caliper all as one piece that way your not splitting your brake caliper. Once you have the rotor out of the way you can pop off the seal clean bearing and re-grease. And then reinstall.

This will be the way I would do this also. I however think you need to remove the suspension and front cross shaft or it would be almost impossible to re install the circlip at the end of the shaft.

 

[cannondale27]

This will be the way I would do this also. I however think you need to remove the suspension and front cross shaft or it would be almost impossible to re install the circlip at the end of the shaft.

Suspension should be out but no need to remove cross shaft. Can do it with just loosening track but would be straining chaincase side bearing from wieght of track.

 

[XP123]

Suspension should be out but no need to remove cross shaft. Can do it with just loosening track but would be straining chaincase side bearing from wieght of track.

I couldn't get the circlip on until I removed the cross shaft and pulled the tunnel in a little with a ratchet strap. That was after about 45 minutes of trying and once removed the clip went on very easy.

 

[cannondale27]

I couldn't get the circlip on until I removed the cross shaft and pulled the tunnel in a little with a ratchet strap. That was after about 45 minutes of trying and once removed the clip went on very easy.

I have heard that from a few guys. Must be some tolerances off on some.

 

[yamaha06]

Ya I never removed that cross shaft. I had my skid out to begin with (greasing idler wheel bearings) so there would be so weight pulling on the drive shaft straining chaincase bearing. I always have to use a ratchet strap to get my circlip back on, but I have never removed that shaft, I just shove a rag down in one of the holes on the running board on each side of the sled and then put the ratchet hooks over the rags to nothing gets scratched and then tighten it up pretty tight and install my circlip.

 

[DMCTurbo]

So to actually grease this bearing, you need to remove that piece with the 3 bolts, and then you can see the bearing from under tunnel easily? just pop cap off and grease it?

No way to grease from outside of the tunnel on other side of bearing? Have not got my sled yet so hard to see this in my head.

thanks, good thread and always a great thing to maintain.

Just did my track swap, I repacked that bearing but did it from the other side, from what I could tell you won't be able to do it from inside the tunnel.

 

[cannondale27]

Probably good idea to remove the crossshaft anyway. Need to roll it on flat surface to see if it’s bent anyhow.

 

[Pstn head]

Probably good idea to remove the crossshaft anyway. Need to roll it on flat surface to see if it’s bent anyhow.

Dang it...Ahhh, Man... Did you have to bring that up, I think that's the one thing I didn't check!

 

[cannondale27]

Dang it...Ahhh, Man... Did you have to bring that up, I think that's the one thing I didn't check!

Just use a straightedge if it’s in already. Just hate to have anyone else break one. It’s ugly and avoidable.

 

[cannondale27]

Dang it...Ahhh, Man... Did you have to bring that up, I think that's the one thing I didn't check!

Heard of 2 more bent this year. One was buddy with 16 8000 Cat with qs3’s I ride with. He never felt a thing. Now he also put rr parts in. His was bent pretty bad. He got lucky.