It wasn't a big difference at time. Would have to look at dealer if they have records. I immediately throw all receipts away to avoid evidence.(married)Any reason you replaced the complete assembly rather than just the jackshaft? It's quite a cost difference. I looking at updating my 2015 since I have it apart to put reverse back in it anyway.
Janne339
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I gonna replace the wobble jack shaft bearing and test a double row ball bearing. A german FAG. Same size as the -16 wobble bearing I put in last season. I also order Sidewinder chain and upper gear.
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What's the difference on the sidewinder chain and gear?I gonna replace the wobble jack shaft bearing and test a double row ball bearing. A german FAG. Same size as the -16 wobble bearing I put in last season. I also order Sidewinder chain and upper gear.
View attachment 133518
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
What's the difference on the sidewinder chain and gear?
15 wide. I running mcx 270 in my Viper. Sidewinder gear and chain are stronger.
upei93
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Back of chaincase has to come out to get at broken bolt so I’m going to get rid of locking collar set up...think I’m going to 16 setup...does the 16 shaft come with the clutch side bearing pressed on if I just order the shaft and bearing...or do I have to order the complete assembly?
Have to order complete. So nobody is trying the 17 setup?Back of chaincase has to come out to get at broken bolt so I’m going to get rid of locking collar set up...think I’m going to 16 setup...does the 16 shaft come with the clutch side bearing pressed on if I just order the shaft and bearing...or do I have to order the complete assembly?
ski
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I'm not sure why one would need to order the complete setup... the bearing and housing are the same part number for 14, 15, and 16 models... only the shaft itself and the complete assembly part numbers differ. I have a 2016 bare jackshaft arriving Monday or Tuesday, I'll confirm whether it fits in the 2014-2015 bearing/housing setup.Have to order complete. So nobody is trying the 17 setup?
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Upei wanted it pressed on already or that is how I read his post. It will fit.I'm not sure why one would need to order the complete setup... the bearing and housing are the same part number for 14, 15, and 16 models... only the shaft itself and the complete assembly part numbers differ. I have a 2016 bare jackshaft arriving Monday or Tuesday, I'll confirm whether it fits in the 204-2015 bearing/housing setup.
Back of chaincase has to come out to get at broken bolt so I’m going to get rid of locking collar set up...think I’m going to 16 setup...does the 16 shaft come with the clutch side bearing pressed on if I just order the shaft and bearing...or do I have to order the complete assembly?
Don't understand why nobody is fitting the 17-18 bearing in? 16 is old news.
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I see. I'm hoping by putting the shaft in the freezer (or outside) for a few hours and warning the bearing/housing in a warmish oven for a while, that it will drop in without too much issue.
ski
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I'm not sure it will fit. The housing is a different part number, and I'm trying to keep costs down. I'm not turbo'd so I'm sure the 16 stuff will be fine.Don't understand why nobody is fitting the 17-18 bearing in? 16 is old news.
Side note... My sled had only 1500 miles and already one of the little arms in the bearing cage (in the stock 2015 wobble bearing) was missing! So that one ball was loose inside the race. Good thing I checked it when I did.
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When I was at my dealer last week he looked up the 17 part number and told me there was only one showing in stock at that time and it was located at a dealer in Wisconsin. Unfortunately I did not get the dealer name or location in Wisconsin. I thought perhaps you had ordered it for a trial fit as discussed earlier. Obviously, wrong again! LOL. The part number he looked up was for the complete assembly.Don't understand why nobody is fitting the 17-18 bearing in? 16 is old news.
Use a heat plate for bearing. Not Oven. I have a press. So no need to risk bearing seals by heating. Bearing and shaft into housing will drop right in if housing is heated. Bearing onto shaft is a press fit.I see. I'm hoping by putting the shaft in the freezer (or outside) for a few hours and warning the bearing/housing in a warmish oven for a while, that it will drop in without too much issue.
I would if I were due to open it up but serviced it all in spring before we had any idea 17 bearing might work. Just wish someone would confirm bearing will work. I believe it will even work with 16 shaft. Just need to be sure. I think all these people updating to 16 will wish they did 17 to get rid of that Wobblebearing. 17 bearing has proven itself now.When I was at my dealer last week he looked up the 17 part number and told me there was only one showing in stock at that time and it was located at a dealer in Wisconsin. Unfortunately I did not get the dealer name or location in Wisconsin. I thought perhaps you had ordered it for a trial fit as discussed earlier. Obviously, wrong again! LOL. The part number he looked up was for the complete assembly.
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The bearing is still in the housing, so I'm not sure how else to heat it. I was planning to preheat the oven to 175°, then shut it off and put the complete housing/bearing in there for 20 minutes or so. I doubt the 175° heat will damage the bearing seal, as those types of seals see those temps or higher in automotive use all the time. I do have a press as well, but I'm trying to put as little strain on the bearing as possible. It is a new bearing... in that it was never used... that assembly was removed as the sled was built into a race unit.Use a heat plate for bearing. Not Oven. I have a press. So no need to risk bearing seals by heating. Bearing and shaft into housing will drop right in if housing is heated. Bearing onto shaft is a press fit.
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