7800mi Service 16 Jackshaft upgrade and Driver/Shaft change 2017 Shaft/Bearing info

[PAvector]

I bought a SKF 2206K made in Sweden and it has a steel cage. Hope it's the right part!

 

[Janne339]

I bought a SKF 2206K made in Sweden and it has a steel cage. Hope it's the right part!

The SKF that fit the 14 and 15 jackshaft with the polyamide cage is 2206 EKTN9.

 

[Allan]

Is a post with pics. Seems to be right around 2-3000mi and you will see the grey babbit is wore off the bushing. Then there is copper. If you wear through that your into steel and shaft will be ruined. More than likely that will never happen because with slop and wobble the gear may not mesh properly when going from forward to reverse or reverse to forward and then if it pops out of gear things can go bad. I pay about $30 for the gear if I remember right. Cheap insurance. Now that I have aftermarket gears I replace just the bushing but its more than the whole stock gear and a pain to change.

Here is the thread with pics of bushing. It has been like that every year.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/chaincase-removal-and-inspection.130877/

Thanks . Great info. The question I have now with the updated shaft being larger and new wobble bearing on 16.5 , I wonder do the top gear bushing wear like this. Did it wear the same with the updated shaft and bearing?

 

[Janne339]

That top gear bushing I believe is the cause for most of the chain case problems. It is kind of weird system, it seems that a small amount of contact on those small teeth are responsible for the whole system working in forward. The bushing wears and compromises that contact area. It then can pop out of forward gear.
Mine failed at 5600 miles ( chain too tight for %90 of those miles---my bad) I added some Lucas oil conditioner to the oil last time I replaced the gear. I figured it cant hurt. I will check it again when I change tracks this year.

Maybe that's why many high boost 1100 turbo cat race-sleds running the M800 jackshaft and stock bearings with no problems. With M800 jackshaft they delete the reverse gears weird system with the small teeth and bad bushing top gear.

 

[cannondale27]

Thanks . Great info. The question I have now with the updated shaft being larger and new wobble bearing on 16.5 , I wonder do the top gear bushing wear like this. Did it wear the same with the updated shaft and bearing?

I will know when I ride it! Maybe I can find out though. Will ask the mechanic at dealer.

 

[dburrowes]

Removing Jackshaft and Wobblebearing
Once gears and everything else is removed you remove this little clip and the washers and shim. This little clip was a bugger. Wanted to go back in groove all the time. I ended up using that tool and a small screwdriver. Here is pic of it.
View attachment 117813
Next you push the tab of locking washer out of slot in Nut.
View attachment 117814
Then using punch or a socket with tangs on it tap the nut loose. Helps to have someone hold the secondary but not needed.
View attachment 117815
Once nut is loose move to left side of sled and remove the big assortment of bolts,nuts from the Jackshaft support. Cut all zip ties attached to it. The belt guard does not need to be removed just the bolts holding it on.
View attachment 117816
View attachment 117817
Wiggle it to make sure you got them all. Then go back to chaincase. Loosen the nut a good turn or two. Then using a punch tap on the nut first on top then bottom then sides. You will feel the locking taper sleeve loosen. Once loose slide the shaft out the left side.
View attachment 117818
Shaft is out. Now bearing. Remove Clip as so.
View attachment 117819
Once clip is removed you can use a long extension and 15/16 socket to drive bearing out. It comes out pretty easy. This is all the original parts. Nothing wore or broke.
View attachment 117820
While doing this take new bearing and put in Ziplock bag and then put in freezer. If replacing seal do it now. Springed lip of seal to inside of case. Have a big socket or bearing driver of slightly small size than OD of bearing within reach. Using a propane torch or heat gun warm the bearing pocket. Be careful of seal.

If old style shaft and bearing are being used the bigger side of the tapered inner race goes in first along with the collar and taper sleeve.
16 and newer it does not matter since bearing ID is not tapered.

Slide it in by hand then once in as far as you can get it by hand send it home with driver. Do all this quickly as possible to keep case warm and bearing cold. It is home when you both hear and feel it bottom. Clip groove will be plainly visible and a little more. Then install clip starting with the cut away end in groove. Just push it in. Starting at cutaway and working it in all the way around.
View attachment 117821
Lube the bearing with chaincase lube. I use some grease on the seal.

Tried to tap out the threaded sleeve using the nut and a punch. Hit it hard enough to eventually mess up the threads. Any thoughts??

 

[cannondale27]

"
Tried to tap out the threaded sleeve using the nut and a punch. Hit it hard enough to eventually mess up the threads. Any thoughts??"

Did you do it equally like 12 o'clock then 6 then 3 then 9? You aren't removing it. Just unlocking it's hold on shaft. Bearing needs to be removed before collar actually comes out.

 

[dburrowes]

Yes. Collar is holding on tight to the jackshaft. Is there anything that needs to be done to the backside of this collar.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes. Collar is holding on tight to the jackshaft. Is there anything that needs to be done to the backside of this collar.

Nope. Find a piece of pipe with the same id as OD of shaft. It has to go. Aerokroil or pub blaster it. Has to be rusted. Nobody was in there already?

 

[cannondale27]

Last resort is a propane torch on inner race of bearing.

 

[dburrowes]

Lol when force is not enough use more force. My specialty.

I was thinking that it was coming down to that. I'm going to try to soak it in penetrating fluid and hit it harder.

Here's hoping.

 

[cannondale27]

You do already have the bolts out of frame member the secondary jackshaft bearing is in?

 

[dburrowes]

You do already have the bolts out of frame member the secondary jackshaft bearing is in?

No I kept the frame on as I wanted to replace that bearing as well. I was going to remove the entire shaft with the secondary side bearing.

 

[cannondale27]

Replace the secondary side out of the sled. See if that side can move freely then only the surface of sleeve touching bearing has to come loose. Otherwise both bearing and shaft surfaces do. Try it. Safer that way anyway. That aluminum frame member could get bent easily.

 

[dburrowes]

Really starting to wonder how bad this bearing was to begin with lol