7800mi Service 16 Jackshaft upgrade and Driver/Shaft change 2017 Shaft/Bearing info

[cannondale27]

All mine were still good but there are horror stories out there. Gotta do what ya gotta do! Still time yet. Was thinking about Jetskiing today!

 

[Alsim]

Start with Parts list for 16 Jackshaft Update. Number 16 and 17 are reverse order in this diagram. Washer Goes Against Gear! Snapring goes on first.
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Hi Cannodale.
I will reinstall my new wooble bearing and all pieces in the same order that you already posted in this thread ( jackshaft in left side on the picture not the 2016 update). I'm looking at the 2015 diagram in Yamaha and AC parts and it's seems a same issue that you mention here!

 

[Alsim]

Removing Jackshaft and Wobblebearing
Once gears and everything else is removed you remove this little clip and the washers and shim. This little clip was a bugger. Wanted to go back in groove all the time. I ended up using that tool and a small screwdriver. Here is pic of it.
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Next you push the tab of locking washer out of slot in Nut.
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Then using punch or a socket with tangs on it tap the nut loose. Helps to have someone hold the secondary but not needed.
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Once nut is loose move to left side of sled and remove the big assortment of bolts,nuts from the Jackshaft support. Cut all zip ties attached to it. The belt guard does not need to be removed just the bolts holding it on.
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Wiggle it to make sure you got them all. Then go back to chaincase. Loosen the nut a good turn or two. Then using a punch tap on the nut first on top then bottom then sides. You will feel the locking taper sleeve loosen. Once loose slide the shaft out the left side.
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Shaft is out. Now bearing. Remove Clip as so.
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Once clip is removed you can use a long extension and 15/16 socket to drive bearing out. It comes out pretty easy. This is all the original parts. Nothing wore or broke.
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While doing this take new bearing and put in Ziplock bag and then put in freezer. If replacing seal do it now. Springed lip of seal to inside of case. Have a big socket or bearing driver of slightly small size than OD of bearing within reach. Using a propane torch or heat gun warm the bearing pocket. Be careful of seal.

If old style shaft and bearing are being used the bigger side of the tapered inner race goes in first along with the collar and taper sleeve.
16 and newer it does not matter since bearing ID is not tapered.

Slide it in by hand then once in as far as you can get it by hand send it home with driver. Do all this quickly as possible to keep case warm and bearing cold. It is home when you both hear and feel it bottom. Clip groove will be plainly visible and a little more. Then install clip starting with the cut away end in groove. Just push it in. Starting at cutaway and working it in all the way around.
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Lube the bearing with chaincase lube. I use some grease on the seal.

Hi Cannondale. Is it necessary to put the collar ( going into the sleeve) . I forgot to put in it before I installed the wobble bearing into the hole. I think this collar is not important. I have enough room and could put only the sleeve on the shaft an insert by back of the seal. If it's not possible without collar or may be could dammage the seal, I have to remove another time the wooblewooble bearing...

 

[cannondale27]

Hi Cannondale. Is it necessary to put the collar ( going into the sleeve) . I forgot to put in it before I installed the wobble bearing into the hole. I think this collar is not important. I have enough room and could put only the sleeve on the shaft an insert by back of the seal. If it's not possible without collar or may be could dammage the seal, I have to remove another time the wooblewooble bearing...

Oh Man. You have to remove the bearing. Its the easiest way. Collar is very importent if you are running the 14 and 15 setup. If you switched to clip style 16 and up no collar is used. Are we talking about the same thing here? Part up against shoulder of shaft or the tapered sleeve? Both serve important functions.

 

[Alsim]

Thanks for the quick response!
Yes , talking about the same thing. I had not switch to clip style 16 because my shaft is like new and waiting to the next year to 6206 style. Now , how can I remove the bearing without dammage ? . If I utilize the shaft and tap gently to remove the bearing will surely works. But I'm worried to put pressure on center of the bearing. It's a double balls may be it's enough strong to resist of the stress on it

 

[Alsim]

Ok..I will remove the casing and going with the press to not damage the wobble bearing. I think is seafiest way to go ..

 

[cannondale27]

Ok..I will remove the casing and going with the press to not damage the wobble bearing. I think is seafiest way to go ..

Just use shaft or buy new. That back case is a major job.

 

[Alsim]

Well, it's done ! I removed the back case and press the bearing out with no difficulty. The collar and the sleeve are in place now. Thanks Cannondale!

I remember I've seen 3 washers near the # 16 . One of these washers are more thicky
To reinstall shafts, gears, washers and circlips, Can I trust the parts list below? I know you noticed some mistakes in 16 parts list.

 

[cannondale27]

Awesome! How was removing the back case? Never did it myself. Never want to! The parts diagram looks good. Yes 16 is a thicker washer. Lots of pics of your style shaft assy. on page 3 to help.

 

[Alsim]

Not so bad! it's took me about half an hour . It was very helpful to insert seals and bearings with a press.The only issue are the Torx bolts in loctite. That make me freak when I remove thoses . I'm scarry to strip them
Another question. After the lock nut and before circlip. I see 2 washers on parts list (#16) is it 2 washers or 3 ? I have in my mind it's are 2 thin and 1 thick washer between locknut and circlip

 

[cannondale27]

You are correct. 2 thin 1 thick

 

[cannondale27]

How was it getting out being sandwiched by tunnel?

 

[Alsim]

How was it getting out being sandwiched by tunnel?

When all the bolts are remove including the 2 frame attachments bars, just pull up with a little angle and it will come out. You have to remove the Torx screws in the tunel too..

 

[cannondale27]

Cool.Good to know. Thanks

 

[Alsim]

Cool.Good to know. Thanks

Cannondale, You help me many many time . It's my pleasure