7800mi Service 16 Jackshaft upgrade and Driver/Shaft change 2017 Shaft/Bearing info

[Janne339]

Cannondale, You help me many many time . It's my pleasure

Cannondale and his treads with great pics help me a lot too! Many thanks to Cannondale!

 

[Janne339]

When all the bolts are remove including the 2 frame attachments bars, just pull up with a little angle and it will come out. You have to remove the Torx screws in the tunel too..

Pics from this great job?

 

[Alsim]

Pics from this great job?

To remove back case, remove 6 torx screws and the 4 nylon bolts located in the tunel.

Remove the bolt of the upper frame bar

Remove the side bar

Remove the bolt attach aluminum protection

Use this key help a lot to going back the case and remove this front bolt

Now you can remove the back case. Just pull out with a little angle

It's easier to change the oil seals and bearings with a press

 

[Alsim]

Waiting on a new center shock I am trying so I didnt drop suspension yet but at this point a guy should to take all weight off track. Instead I just loosened it all the way and supported it with Jackstand. Starting on Caliper side.
Remove caliper guard/support and toehold.
Remove clip. Tool shown works awesome!
Remove 3 10mm bolts behind caliper inside tunnel. Gearwrench and small air ratchet works well.
View attachment 117505
View attachment 117506
Remove Brakeline from Caliper. This fluid will remove powdercoating very quickly so catch it with rags or I like the oil drain container for this also.
View attachment 117507
Remove Caliper/Bearing/disc as a whole assy.
Wiggle and pull. Once off it comes out by leaning it towards left side of belly pan. Then disc can be slid out opposite caliper.
First issue Inoticed a few weeks ago when changing brake pads. The caliper has no stainless sliders for pads(sheetmetal wear points) so the pad backing plates wear grooves
in to the caliper from sliding around on the aluminum. I turned this into warranty and ordered a whole new Caliper. These grooves make changing wore pads very difficult since they catch on grooves making piston compression almost impossible. I dont take chances with my brakes since I use them alot.
Hopefully Yamaha feels same and covers it. Would like to see someone offer some slide inserts to prevent this. Would improve brake feel also.
View attachment 117508
View attachment 117513
The good news. Have repacked China Drive
bearing every season. It feels great and looks great. It has also not wore into the driveshaft which I did put some peen marks in to help prevent inner race from spinning on shaft. All is good there.
View attachment 117509
View attachment 117510

View attachment 117511
Here is brand new assembly. Is good amount of grease in there. Will not touch it till next season.
View attachment 117514
View attachment 117515

Chaincase/Oil change is next

Since I saw your post about groove issue into the galiper. I checked mine and decided to find a solution to avoid buying a new one. I cut a pieces of stainless steel and stick it with JBweld.

 

[cannondale27]

Since I saw your post about groove issue into the galiper. I checked mine and decided to find a solution to avoid buying a new one. I cut a pieces of stainless steel and stick it with JBweld.

Be very careful. Worry if they come loose and jam brake or worse don't allow braking! I was looking at the RR/15,16 RTXLe Caliper other day. They use race pads which are bigger. Caliper is Identical to our except it is machined to fit the pads right where ours groove the Caliper. I may mill mine out and screw or somehow fasten a stainless pad thickness of what I mill out. That won't be till warrantee is over and new Caliper is grooved again though. Alsim don't you have warranty?

 

[Alsim]

Be very careful. Worry if they come loose and jam brake or worse don't allow braking! I was looking at the RR/15,16 RTXLe Caliper other day. They use race pads which are bigger. Caliper is Identical to our except it is machined to fit the pads right where ours groove the Caliper. I may mill mine out and screw or somehow fasten a stainless pad thickness of what I mill out. That won't be till warrantee is over and new Caliper is grooved again though. Alsim don't you have warranty?

Nope...don't have warranty. I put a very thin piece of stainless. Thinking I have no problem with security...but I understand. I don't know if I could put another pads..actually these grooves seems dangerous to Block pads

 

[cannondale27]

Nope...don't have warranty. I put a very thin piece of stainless. Thinking I have no problem with security...but I understand. I don't know if I could put another pads..actually these grooves seems dangerous to Block pads

Right same pads but machine EXTRA room for a plate secured with screw. Dont forget they get hot enough to make steam out of snow. If ridden hard. I have seen it.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes the grooves are dangerous! I get your point. Damned either way!

 

[cannondale27]

I plan to have a talk with the Hayes guys. They are local here.

 

[Alsim]

I plan to have a talk with the Hayes guys. They are local here.

Good! I'm looking foward to hearing some news.....

 

[cannondale27]

The Sidewinder shaft is in the 17 Vipers! So I assume bearing also is. The tech book doesn't say. Anyway here is the new Jackshaft

Same as Sidewinder

 

[Alsim]

The Sidewinder shaft is in the 17 Vipers! So I assume bearing also is. The tech book doesn't say. Anyway here is the new Jackshaft
View attachment 123028
Same as Sidewinder
View attachment 123029

With 6206 on both sides ?

 

[cannondale27]

With 6206 on both sides ?

Must be.

Notice the difference in length of shoulder? This is why I think everything may need to be changed for conversion.

 

[trevorl1]

What's the part number for the gear that wears in top of the chain case?

Also I can't find the part number for the seal that goes in between the oil tank and chain case.

 

[cannondale27]

What's the part number for the gear that wears in top of the chain case?

Also I can't find the part number for the seal that goes in between the oil tank and chain case.

There is no seal between oil tank and chaincase. It's silicone. Did you split it?