About threads in aluminum steering linkage

[jamieren]

After a catastrophic crash resulting in a bent subframe (among other things) I'm helping to put my sled back together with aftermarket a arms and steering links, but had a friend suggest the rods are a little on the short side. I've included a picture of the (aluminum) rods and the tie rod end with the jam nut showing where it sits. My friend is telling me we should use the oem rods and cut them 1/2 - 3/4" longer so there are more threads holding on both ends. Currently they thread in about 7 turns on each end. Is this sufficient, or considering this is aluminum will they have potential to pull out?

 

[cannondale27]

After a catastrophic crash resulting in a bent subframe (among other things) I'm helping to put my sled back together with aftermarket a arms and steering links, but had a friend suggest the rods are a little on the short side. I've included a picture of the (aluminum) rods and the tie rod end with the jam nut showing where it sits. My friend is telling me we should use the oem rods and cut them 1/2 - 3/4" longer so there are more threads holding on both ends. Currently they thread in about 7 turns on each end. Is this sufficient, or considering this is aluminum will they have potential to pull out?

That does seem a bit shallow. I am with your friend. If rods were steel it would be ok but not aluminum especially off trail. You guys are always cranking on the bars with skiis buried in snow. It's more stress than trail I think.

 

[maim]

stay with the steel rods. bent a few before on trail with aluminum steering rods. we put the stock steels back on and had no problems in the years we still had those sleds.

 

[CaptCaper]

You can adjust the steering with another adjuster under the gas tank. I had to do that to a Attak. The ball joint rods weren't long enough to alien the skis.

 

[blueironranger]

I agree, steel that would be fine, Aluminum I'd want at least 2x the width of the bolt. Say 10mm bolt, I'd want 20mm engagement.

 

[Mills]

Good rule-of-thumb we used for the asphalt late model was that 2/3's of the rod-end bolt had to be engaged in the tie rod for proper strength and to allow for more adjustability. Steel tie rods are best for durability but if you want to go with aluminum I would suggest you get swaged rods (hydraulically necked down at each end) for better strength.

 

[kinger]

Yeah that is too short. I remember I was assembling my apex and had it all aligned and ready to finish the alignment when I noticed I could only get about 4-5 turns in. I was in a hurry and really wanted to ride, but took the 'right' road and took it all apart again to make more room by un-screwing the inside one so they had equal threads. One good hit and it will pop out of there. Smart friend!