Adding Chain Case Fluid Tutorial(56K Warning)

When I added oil to my chaincase I also had to put it on at one o'clock then rotate back to twelve o'clock with some pressure. I'm wondering if some guys aren't doing this and are taking out there reverse.
 
The only need for moving it from about 1 o'clock and then counter clockwise is to line it up. I do the same. All the talk about moving it to preload the actuator for it to work right is just internet folklore.
 
That is correct. Also the guys that are going to siphon the fluids out can do as they wish. But remember if doing a fluid change it would be best to take it down all the way and inspect the chain and gears/bearings and such. You could save yourself the trouble and money later.

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The only need for moving it from about 1 o'clock and then counter clockwise is to line it up. I do the same. All the talk about moving it to preload the actuator for it to work right is just internet folklore.
 
did this and put back together but wont engage into reverse now? Any reason that anyone on here can think of??
 
did this and put back together but wont engage into reverse now? Any reason that anyone on here can think of??
Have you tried doing it by hand? Just grab the Actuator Extension with a pliers and try turning it. More than likely your actuator just isnt working. Like said there is no specific clocking. Just need to be close and just move actuator a little to line up screws. It finds the correct clocking when you go from forward to reverse 3 times. Other scenario is you put it together wrong.
 
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This is what I found when I went to change the gear oil. 2 of the 3 screw towers were cracked. Anyone else have this issue?
 
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This is what I found when I went to change the gear oil. 2 of the 3 screw towers were cracked. Anyone else have this issue?
Yep both my wife's zr 7000 and my viper were cracked! I'm pretty sure the dealers over tightened them on ours when the did the reverse recall! If you still have warranty get a new one! I got both of ours replaced under warranty!
 
That's what I was hoping to hear I just hope the fact that I continued with the oil change doesn't void that part. I'm good for the warranty till 11/18

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Those only get torqued in IN LBs. I have seen them like that from being over tightened. I've seen the case more than the actual actuator itself. And in all honesty it doesn't take much to crack these.

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Those only get torqued in IN LBs. I have seen them like that from being over tightened. I've seen the case more than the actual actuator itself. And in all honesty it doesn't take much to crack these.

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I've seen other parts that would have a steel bolt sleeve an by the looks of things the actuator should be one of them.

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It says Made in China right on it. Those Chinese must laugh their asses off at us dumb Americans every time they sell us something.
 
Quick write up on adding chain case oil. Soon as I get time Ill be doing a write up on oil changes unless someone beats me to it.

Persons needed: 1
Difficulty: 1-10 (2)
Approximate time required:
30 minutes
Tools required: Both torx wrenches required are found in the stock tool bag.
Fluid Total: 12FL OZ. Add until site glass is between 1/4 and 1/2.


First thing is to remove both side panels. This will make life easier during this procedure. On the clutch side there is a thumb screw just above the pin. This needs to be removed.



Next we will want to remove the seat. Once the bolt on the rear of the seat is out lift the rear of the seat up and away from the front.


Next we need to remove the panel that lays across infront of the seat. Undo the fastners on each side. When those are undone lift near the top and the panel comes out.


At the chain case side you should now be able to access the screws and connections needed to remove the actuator.



The opening this creates is where you fill chain case oil.


The actuator motor. These screws are torqued to 36 IN LBS. and have blue loctite.

The actuator extension.



Just a few notes on this, for the procedure to wrap things up just follow the removal in reverse. Remember extension goes in first. If needed you can rotate the extension back and forth a little to help line the teeth up. Also make sure you don't pinch any wires that go to and from the actuator motor. Specially the one that comes directly out of the case near the top of the actuator motor. Here is the tricky part. Hopefully someone can confirm this but some say you need to preload this actuator motor when reinstalling it. Basically lining the teeth up between the actuator motor and the extension by placing the actuator motor at the 1 olcock positions and moving it to the 12 oclock position. Ive spoke with a few different yamaha and arctic cat dealers and none have confirmed or denied this. They both side if the teeth fit and the screws line up your good, if not you will want to move the actuator motor to line the screw holes up. There is some tension when you have to do that. They also said the system will self adjust to were it needs to be.

Right out of the service bulletin from arctic cat they just say make sure all teeth are aligned correctly.
1. Turn key to on position and placed the sled in reverse and forward 3 times.( When I did that I didn't hear the actuator doing anything, so I don't think it gets power until the sled is fired up.)
2. Next to start the sled and run the sled in reverse for 20 seconds on a stand.

If anyone has anything to add or correct to this please make a post here and ill add it. Hopefully this will help anyone that needs it.

Subaru2006
For some reason I am not seeing any of the pictures that were included in this main thread, just icons with a red X on them. Maybe the pics were removed?? :dunno:
 


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