is my reverse actuator broken?

[rallikuski]

pulled my Viper actuator and did a part search on many, many, many websites to see if I could cross reference it. No luck so then I typed in window regulator motor and started searching for one that looks like the one off the Viper and found this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6551479?keywordInput=noe+6551479 it has a 10 tooth drive gear and the mounting hole locations look right. I am going to go to Napa and see if the driven socket fits on it and see how well it matches up the the Viper actuator. more to come.

This napa 6551479 looks it have right bolt circle and right gear.

Is there any fitment chart for that motor? I cant get that website open because there is some "access forbidden" thing from euro server...

 

[Mike P]

I have been through 2. 1 under warranty other on my dime last year. Surprised nobody has just made a manual one. How much are the OEM ones? I forgot.

If a manual conversion kit was available I would get one. Maybe Barn of Parts is working on it.

 

[rallikuski]

And rockauto cheap one is: ACI 82101

Only 29$ + shipping... So not expensive anymore even to finland. Only 45$ including shipping...

Partzilla offer orginal one 158$ with shipping. And of course i need to pay local taxes 24% because item prize is over 30$.

 

[Mills]

I did fix the OEM actuator I showed in the pictures that started this thread. Here is a picture of what I did to fix it. So far it has lasted a year but, I am going to find a replacement for it to have piece of mind. I am heading to the parts store at lunch today with the OEM actuator and gear socket to see if the Napa actuators will work.

 

[STAIN]

There is a dealer that sold manual conversions for the reverse. I just cant remember their name.

 

[Mills]

So after an exhaustive search I purchased an A1-Cardone P/N: 42-197 window regulator motor from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $84.00 with a $20.00 core return. I kept the OEM motor just in case the new one didn't work. The A1-Cardone motor has a 10-tooth gear that fits the driven socket in the chain case - check! The mounting hole pattern is the same - check! The wiring harness from the sled plugged directly into the motor - check! As I tried to place it on the chain case i notice the plug receptical on the motor was on the opposite side of the motor as compared to the OEM motor. Because of this there wasn't a gap between the motor and chain case to sneak the wiring harness from the chain case out. I took the bolts out that secure the electric drive motor to the gear housing, lift it slightly and rotated it 180 degrees to get the plug receptical positioned on the opposite side like the OEM motor. I bolted the new motor to the chain case and quickly found that the gear housing of the new motor is larger than the OEM motor so it made contact with chain case and held the motor back about an 1/8 inch from being fully seated. I applied the bolts finger tight, fired the sled up and gave it a try - it worked!!! But it took me pressing the reverse actuator button twice for it to work. Now comes the part your not going to like. When you turn a Viper off, the sled sends power to your reverse motor that is supposed to spin it in the direction of forward so that the sled is in forward (drive) gear when it is started the next time. When I shut the sled off the signal to the motor made it turn in the direction of reverse and it shifted the sled into reverse. I fired the sled up again and hit the shift button and it didn't work on the first input but did the second time i pushed it. I took the new motor off and shut the sled off and watched which direction it spun. I put the old OEM motor back on and did the same thing and found that the new motor spins in the opposite direction as the OEM motor. So with the new motor you have to hit the shift button twice to get it to go into reverse the first time and every time you shut the sled off it puts the sled in reverse. Damn I was afraid of that. The plug end on the wiring harness from the sled is a weather tight plug so there is no chance of slipping the contactors in the plug housing out and reversing them. The only way to reverse the wires is to cut the wiring harness on the sled, reverse the wires and reconnect them. I took the new motor apart again hoping the wires inside were push-to-connect and I could reverse them. No luck they are souldered to the motor. At this point I am not willing to cut the wiring harness on the sled to fix this problem. I am going to return this motor and go buy the Napa P/N: 6551479 motor. It looks like it has a narrower body and will bolt up flush to the chain case. I will have to continue this next week as I am headed north to the Ashland Wi area for some more bow hunting. I can post pics of the motor I tried from work tomorrow.

 

[Stormbringer]

So after an exhaustive search I purchased an A1-Cardone P/N: 42-197 window regulator motor from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $84.00 with a $20.00 core return. I kept the OEM motor just in case the new one didn't work. The A1-Cardone motor has a 10-tooth gear that fits the driven socket in the chain case - check! The mounting hole pattern is the same - check! The wiring harness from the sled plugged directly into the motor - check! As I tried to place it on the chain case i notice the plug receptical on the motor was on the opposite side of the motor as compared to the OEM motor. Because of this there wasn't a gap between the motor and chain case to sneak the wiring harness from the chain case out. I took the bolts out that secure the electric drive motor to the gear housing, lift it slightly and rotated it 180 degrees to get the plug receptical positioned on the opposite side like the OEM motor. I bolted the new motor to the chain case and quickly found that the gear housing of the new motor is larger than the OEM motor so it made contact with chain case and held the motor back about an 1/8 inch from being fully seated. I applied the bolts finger tight, fired the sled up and gave it a try - it worked!!! But it took me pressing the reverse actuator button twice for it to work. Now comes the part your not going to like. When you turn a Viper off, the sled sends power to your reverse motor that is supposed to spin it in the direction of forward so that the sled is in forward (drive) gear when it is started the next time. When I shut the sled off the signal to the motor made it turn in the direction of reverse and it shifted the sled into reverse. I fired the sled up again and hit the shift button and it didn't work on the first input but did the second time i pushed it. I took the new motor off and shut the sled off and watched which direction it spun. I put the old OEM motor back on and did the same thing and found that the new motor spins in the opposite direction as the OEM motor. So with the new motor you have to hit the shift button twice to get it to go into reverse the first time and every time you shut the sled off it puts the sled in reverse. Damn I was afraid of that. The plug end on the wiring harness from the sled is a weather tight plug so there is no chance of slipping the contactors in the plug housing out and reversing them. The only way to reverse the wires is to cut the wiring harness on the sled, reverse the wires and reconnect them. I took the new motor apart again hoping the wires inside were push-to-connect and I could reverse them. No luck they are souldered to the motor. At this point I am not willing to cut the wiring harness on the sled to fix this problem. I am going to return this motor and go buy the Napa P/N: 6551479 motor. It looks like it has a narrower body and will bolt up flush to the chain case. I will have to continue this next week as I am headed north to the Ashland Wi area for some more bow hunting. I can post pics of the motor I tried from work tomorrow.

Great research and development! Now if mine takes a dive, I know I can do the same and make one work!
Great Job!

 

[ClutchMaster]

So after an exhaustive search I purchased an A1-Cardone P/N: 42-197 window regulator motor from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $84.00 with a $20.00 core return. I kept the OEM motor just in case the new one didn't work. The A1-Cardone motor has a 10-tooth gear that fits the driven socket in the chain case - check! The mounting hole pattern is the same - check! The wiring harness from the sled plugged directly into the motor - check! As I tried to place it on the chain case i notice the plug receptical on the motor was on the opposite side of the motor as compared to the OEM motor. Because of this there wasn't a gap between the motor and chain case to sneak the wiring harness from the chain case out. I took the bolts out that secure the electric drive motor to the gear housing, lift it slightly and rotated it 180 degrees to get the plug receptical positioned on the opposite side like the OEM motor. I bolted the new motor to the chain case and quickly found that the gear housing of the new motor is larger than the OEM motor so it made contact with chain case and held the motor back about an 1/8 inch from being fully seated. I applied the bolts finger tight, fired the sled up and gave it a try - it worked!!! But it took me pressing the reverse actuator button twice for it to work. Now comes the part your not going to like. When you turn a Viper off, the sled sends power to your reverse motor that is supposed to spin it in the direction of forward so that the sled is in forward (drive) gear when it is started the next time. When I shut the sled off the signal to the motor made it turn in the direction of reverse and it shifted the sled into reverse. I fired the sled up again and hit the shift button and it didn't work on the first input but did the second time i pushed it. I took the new motor off and shut the sled off and watched which direction it spun. I put the old OEM motor back on and did the same thing and found that the new motor spins in the opposite direction as the OEM motor. So with the new motor you have to hit the shift button twice to get it to go into reverse the first time and every time you shut the sled off it puts the sled in reverse. Damn I was afraid of that. The plug end on the wiring harness from the sled is a weather tight plug so there is no chance of slipping the contactors in the plug housing out and reversing them. The only way to reverse the wires is to cut the wiring harness on the sled, reverse the wires and reconnect them. I took the new motor apart again hoping the wires inside were push-to-connect and I could reverse them. No luck they are souldered to the motor. At this point I am not willing to cut the wiring harness on the sled to fix this problem. I am going to return this motor and go buy the Napa P/N: 6551479 motor. It looks like it has a narrower body and will bolt up flush to the chain case. I will have to continue this next week as I am headed north to the Ashland Wi area for some more bow hunting. I can post pics of the motor I tried from work tomorrow.

I would just reverse the wires so it goes the correct way. Soilder and heat shrink done. Good job BTW

 

[Mills]

Napa 6551479 motor ordered. The gear case housing on this one does not have the round boss on it like the A1 Cardone motor that interfered with it fitting flush to the gear case. If it actuates opposite of the OEM motor but fits well I am going to get into the wiring harness on the sled to reverse the wiring using push-to-connect connectors so I can swap it back easily if need be. Once I get all this figured out I am going to create a work instruction and have it placed in the Viper "Sticky" section.

 

[Mills]

Here is a pic of the OEM actuator and the A1 Cardone actuator I tried yesterday. The round boss in the gear case housing indicated by the RED arrow is what hit the chain case and did not allow it to sit flush against the case. The Napa actuator does not have this boss but it is a special order item so I won't get it until next Wednesday. Good news is that it only costs $48.50!!!

 

[Yamasledder]

Here is a pic of the OEM actuator and the A1 Cardone actuator I tried yesterday. The round boss in the gear case housing indicated by the RED arrow is what hit the chain case and did not allow it to sit flush against the case. The Napa actuator does not have this boss but it is a special order item so I won't get it until next Wednesday. Good news is that it only costs $48.50!!!

View attachment 150108

Thanks for staying on this. It's always nice when you can come up with a viable solution at a great less expense.

 

[Mills]

I have not forgotten about this and reporting out to you guys on how the Napa actuator works. It has not come in yet. Should be here tomorrow.

 

[Mills]

Ok so Napa is telling me their actuator P/N: 6551479 that I ordered cannot be found by UPS and it is the only one they have in the country so they are refunding my money. It is actually a Dorman actuator with Dorman P/N: 742115 so I am going to try to find it online somewhere. I also came across this one on ebay that looks exactly like the Dorman actuator: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Window-Motor-Front-Right-ACI-Maxair-82101/163644081331

 

[Mills]

Ok, I found it at O'Reilly's so I am heading over there today to see if I can get the Dorman brand rather than their O'Reilly brand that did not work the first time (why didn't they show me this when I bought the first one?) AND this one is cheaper than all the rest I have found!!!!

 

[Mills]

So O'Reilly's kept bringing me back to their version of the Dorman actuator which also has the same round boss as the AutoZone version that does not work (the round boss did not allow the actuator to sit flush against the chain case). I found the Dorman actuator on eBay so I ordered one. Again this one is cheaper than the previous.
eBay also listed this as coming from a 2001-2005 Saturn L300 car. So, I am sure you could get one of these from a junk yard as well.