Aggresive trail setup- please help.

Going through the bigger bumps I can sit down and chill, but I like to double and triple them when I can. Softer settings is what your after if you want a more cushy ride. Loosen your front track shock and ride with the floats at around 55-65 psi. That should soften it up some so the suspension is moving more that it's transferred to you. That way you can go through those bumps sitting with less activity.
 
Maybe loosen up the skid a little more
 
I have a similar situation. The front end of this sled works great. With all the mixed reviews on the floats I wasn't sure but it soaks up everything nicely set at 65 psi. The back end could use a little work. It just feels a little stiff. I am 200 lbs and the skid is as soft as it goes. I am hoping it will break in and soften up. Will play with it a little too. I have yet to feel this thing bottom riding hard on some pretty nasty trails
 
Did you loosen your front skid shock?
 
At 600mi my suspension is broke in. I am very happy but I only weigh 145lb. At high speed yesterday I bottomed the whole sled 3 times. I believe we will all benefit from revalving/replacing the shocks. Especially guys heavier than me. Find your comfortable spring and air settings for good smooth trails and small bumps and valve the shocks for the big ones. It is the only way to have both a plush ride and take the big hits. Sucks we have to do this but is what it is. We need more progressive valving. Yes I have ridden the R-Motion and nothing else stock is as good as that rear suspension. Will we have something as good with revalve? Close for sure.
 
sh revalve

Called Hy-Gear and they will revalve the front rear shock for $70 and replace the spring with a dual rate spring for $50...they don't have an upgrade revalve for the rear shock unless you go with Axis shocks which he said that they are way behind in production...will have the front rear shock done by Hy-Gear as soon as Yamaha replaces the broken rear shock...but that's another thread...
 
I loosened the front skid a little. Didn't want to get too much ski pressure and heavy steering. Have the curve skis on and they bite pretty well
 
Anyone been just riding the sled without doing any adjusting? I started adjusting at about 300 miles and loosened stuff up because it was very stiff and harsh in the small bumps. Now I have almost 600 miles and I got it so it handles small bumps perfect but gets thrown around on big bumps. Does the suspension on these get broke in and loosen up a lot? I think my best bet is going to be to go back to stock settings and ride it and slowly adjust here and there as things keep loosening up
 
I now have 750 miles on the sled... Have spent more time on attempting setups than I care to admit ... Still experiencing a horrible push anything over 40mph on tighter turns. Severely disappointed in this sled. About ready to cut my losses and put it up for sale. I'm afraid of spending hundreds of dollars trying to make this sled perform with always being letdown. My latest setup in the sled is skid at 4 on the straps, front shock is turned down to within 1/4" of threads showing, transfer block at 2 and played with air pressure from. 50 psi to 110 psi with the skid in this position. For the guys that claim these turn on "rails"... I just can't see how it's possible. Am I just pushing this sled beyond its capabilities?

Will this sled ever handle as good as an apex or a ski doo with the r motion?
 
STENOD said:
I now have 750 miles on the sled... Have spent more time on attempting setups than I care to admit ... Still experiencing a horrible push anything over 40mph on tighter turns. Severely disappointed in this sled. About ready to cut my losses and put it up for sale. I'm afraid of spending hundreds of dollars trying to make this sled perform with always being letdown. My latest setup in the sled is skid at 4 on the straps, front shock is turned down to within 1/4" of threads showing, transfer block at 2 and played with air pressure from. 50 psi to 110 psi with the skid in this position. For the guys that claim these turn on "rails"... I just can't see how it's possible. Am I just pushing this sled beyond its capabilities?

Will this sled ever handle as good as an apex or a ski doo with the r motion?
Click to expand...

One word No, sorry it will not. We have the Viper probably as good as it will get especially after trying lots of stuff with the procross cats we had last season. Plainly put we cannot make the viper handle to keep up with my 1200 running snowtrackers. Were going to put pilots on it this week with snowtrackers if they don't work well on it then that's about as good as its gonna get.
 
That's what I'm afraid off... I ride with a 600 etec, 1200 ski doo turbo, apex xtx, and nytro SE, the only sled my viper will outperform is the nytro. I can hop on any other sled and run the same trail 10-15mph faster just about everywhere.
 
Can you get the stock skis with better carbides to rail around a corner? The darting is a pain but I can deal with that, I can't stand the high speed push this sled has. The carbides people are reccommending are nuts, spend 150-200 bucks on carbides??? If I know they will take care of it im fine with spending that money but thats half way to an aftermarket pair of skis that will for sure take care of the pushing and darting. I just dont want to guess and dump money into the stock skis if they will never turn how I expect them to.
 
I'm going to chime in as for years, the stock skis have always been replaced on my sleds with C&A Razors. I have a wanted ad looking for C&A Razors and after this weekend, I spent a lot of time setting up my suspension to make the stock skis work. On powder, they still push like crazy but after my suspension tweaks, my Viper handles just as good if not better than my Nytro with C&A Razors on hardpack and flat trails with tracks. Sucking up the limiter straps 1 hole made a world of difference!
 
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