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Always rotate your Clutch CCW to prevent issues when changing clutch parts!!

Yeah, looks like oil pressure with light spring tension but no ratcheting lock mechanism.
That is probably why it is able to climb that chain on top of the gears. When you spin the motor backwards it looks like it compresses' the tensioner letting the front side of the chain slack.
Don't like that design......one with a ratcheting lock would be better and eliminate the possibility cam chain jumping if the motor spun backwards.
This tensioner uses oil pressure and mechanical ratcheting both. As others have said, as chain wears, the mechanical ratchet clicks out to take up slack. Grooves are approx. 035" apart. If chain has not worn ir stretched enough for mechanical ratchet to click into next groove, then chain could have enough play to jump if all oil pressure has bled off. This must be the case here.
 

About 11k miles on the machine. I attempted to move the intake gear slightly back into place but it ended up going too far so now I'm on the other side of it and it's locked in pretty good. I think I need to remove tensioner and do it the right way at this point which sucks because I was able to do this up to this point by only removing seat, fuel tank, oil tank, and battery. I haven't had the exhaust manifold bolts off in 10k miles (Hindle Exhaust) and I've never loosened the motor mounts so this could turn into a major project if I strip or break something off. So angry with myself for turning the primary the wrong way just once and potentially ruining the second half of my riding season or the motor entirely.
 
About 11k miles on the machine. I attempted to move the intake gear slightly back into place but it ended up going too far so now I'm on the other side of it and it's locked in pretty good. I think I need to remove tensioner and do it the right way at this point which sucks because I was able to do this up to this point by only removing seat, fuel tank, oil tank, and battery. I haven't had the exhaust manifold bolts off in 10k miles (Hindle Exhaust) and I've never loosened the motor mounts so this could turn into a major project if I strip or break something off. So angry with myself for turning the primary the wrong way just once and potentially ruining the second half of my riding season or the motor entirely.

Hear me out, I'm not trying to be the devil's advocate, but turn the clutch clockwise with the valve cover removed to see if you can get slack in the chain again and then slide it back 1 tooth if that's what you think it's off, it's possible to be done, just take your time (at this point what do you have to lose).
 
Hear me out, I'm not trying to be the devil's advocate, but turn the clutch clockwise with the valve cover removed to see if you can get slack in the chain again and then slide it back 1 tooth if that's what you think it's off, it's possible to be done, just take your time (at this point what do you have to lose).
I'm going to attempt to do that again today. I was trying last night and got too frustrated so I gave up for the night. It's actually looking like I've got the intake gear in the right spot but the exhaust cam is off by one tooth now. Trying to figure out how to finagle it to move that one.
 
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My guess is that once chain went into teeth, tensioner clicked one more groove and now it's pretty tight.
Remove up pipe, not exhaust manifold. Have to tilt motor forward to get at tensioner.
Have to remove intake parts so engine can be tilted foward. Have to remove bolts holding that aluminum strut on left side to allow access to main long bolt that is rear motor mount.
Tilt engine, put something under exhaust manifold to hold it up.
Then can find right tools to remove tensioner. PIA!!!!!
 
I'd like to hear thoughts on chain life. Has anyone had to replace a chain on Vector, Nytro or Winder yet?
Just wondering what mileage to expect before it has worn and become too long.
I have changed many chains on various ATV/Motorcycle engines over the years as the teeth, holes and pins wear. Just not this engine yet, but I have a 06 Vector here that is coughing back through the intake a bit at idle, and not running good. Suspecting chain may have jumped a tooth.
 
I'd like to hear thoughts on chain life. Has anyone had to replace a chain on Vector, Nytro or Winder yet?
Just wondering what mileage to expect before it has worn and become too long.
I have changed many chains on various ATV/Motorcycle engines over the years as the teeth, holes and pins wear. Just not this engine yet, but I have a 06 Vector here that is coughing back through the intake a bit at idle, and not running good. Suspecting chain may have jumped a tooth.
I removed the valve cover today. Timing is correct, chain is very tight. 20'000kms. Chain shows no signs of wanting to climb even when I rotate backwards. Maybe the tensioner has recently engaged the next groove.
 
I removed the valve cover today. Timing is correct, chain is very tight. 20'000kms. Chain shows no signs of wanting to climb even when I rotate backwards. Maybe the tensioner has recently engaged the next groove.
Not to get off topic, but I'll report what I find. At this point it looks like exhaust valve problem according to leakdown test. PTO no compression.
 
What are the symptoms of timing jumped say 1 tooth on these? Is it noticeable powerwise? Missfirire? Hard starting? Fault codes? Just curious for future reference.
 
it starts and runs fine ...maybe a 100 rpm less at idle but will only rev 8800 no matter what you lighten weights to. i wrote a thread on this last year titled lost RPM.
 
it starts and runs fine ...maybe a 100 rpm less at idle but will only rev 8800 no matter what you lighten weights to. i wrote a thread on this last year titled lost RPM.
Would it still make correct boost?
 


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