Another starter

mtotguy

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Montague, Michigan
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2016 Rush 800, 2014 Viper RTX, 1983 Excel 3
Turned the key last night and got a lot of grinding noise. So now I'm going on my third starter. I just got the Evo reflash. We'll see if it helps.
 
Turned the key last night and got a lot of grinding noise. So now I'm going on my third starter. I just got the Evo reflash. We'll see if it helps.

Would very much like to see pics of bad parts if possible, especially the point of break on the starter gear. Thanks!
 
That sucks ... I have a 15 rtx (hurrice turbo) and I have never had a issue with the starter in 1800 miles - no kick backs, nothing, starts like a champ
 
Would very much like to see pics of bad parts if possible, especially the point of break on the starter gear. Thanks!
The part of the starter that breaks is the aluminum collar with the o ring.
my buddy's just gave out removed it and the collar is missing must be in the stator housing.
 
The part of the starter that breaks is the aluminum collar with the o ring.
my buddy's just gave out removed it and the collar is missing must be in the stator housing.
Those are the lucky ones. Intermediate gear also breaks.
 
has anyone found the real problem with this happening? from all of the ideas i have read i lean towards the battery being too far away and the cables too small. DC looses voltage very fast which in turn makes the needed amperage go way up. just wondering.
 
has anyone found the real problem with this happening? from all of the ideas i have read i lean towards the battery being too far away and the cables too small. DC looses voltage very fast which in turn makes the needed amperage go way up. just wondering.

I think that's an issue, may cause some hard start issues and kick back, may not too, but I've heard from several people that say the battery being so far back may need big or better cables to get the power to the starter.
 
There is more than one problem.In this day and age it should crank till started automatically. My truck does. Bump the key and it cranks till it starts with or without holding key. Second it should start and start firmly. No Kickback or missfire or whatever. That covers the programming end. Third there is weak parts in the system. The intermediate gear which is gear between starter and flywheel fails. The starter nose can fail and the mount can fail. Lastly is a entirely separate issue that has been going on ever since Yamaha made the first 4 stroke. The solenoid can stick on causing the starter to run constantly without you knowing. This burns up the starter and magnets fall out of housing. This can be verified if starter is burned to a crisp inside. A weak battery and possibly the longer cables do contribute but these are things that happen thousands of times daily to many vehicles and none of them end up with pieces of the motor laying in the engine. Ideally I would like all of the above fixed and a starter clutch added between starter and engine to safeguard against potential issues. A one way bearing which we have is not a clutch. A better flash and a known good intermediate gear would take care of 90% of the failures.
 
There is more than one problem.In this day and age it should crank till started automatically. My truck does. Bump the key and it cranks till it starts with or without holding key. Second it should start and start firmly. No Kickback or missfire or whatever. That covers the programming end. Third there is weak parts in the system. The intermediate gear which is gear between starter and flywheel fails. The starter nose can fail and the mount can fail. Lastly is a entirely separate issue that has been going on ever since Yamaha made the first 4 stroke. The solenoid can stick on causing the starter to run constantly without you knowing. This burns up the starter and magnets fall out of housing. This can be verified if starter is burned to a crisp inside. A weak battery and possibly the longer cables do contribute but these are things that happen thousands of times daily to many vehicles and none of them end up with pieces of the motor laying in the engine. Ideally I would like all of the above fixed and a starter clutch added between starter and engine to safeguard against potential issues. A one way bearing which we have is not a clutch. A better flash and a known good intermediate gear would take care of 90% of the failures.


Exactly right, all starter failures are not the same.
 
or use ny
There is more than one problem.In this day and age it should crank till started automatically. My truck does. Bump the key and it cranks till it starts with or without holding key. Second it should start and start firmly. No Kickback or missfire or whatever. That covers the programming end. Third there is weak parts in the system. The intermediate gear which is gear between starter and flywheel fails. The starter nose can fail and the mount can fail. Lastly is a entirely separate issue that has been going on ever since Yamaha made the first 4 stroke. The solenoid can stick on causing the starter to run constantly without you knowing. This burns up the starter and magnets fall out of housing. This can be verified if starter is burned to a crisp inside. A weak battery and possibly the longer cables do contribute but these are things that happen thousands of times daily to many vehicles and none of them end up with pieces of the motor laying in the engine. Ideally I would like all of the above fixed and a starter clutch added between starter and engine to safeguard against potential issues. A one way bearing which we have is not a clutch. A better flash and a known good intermediate gear would take care of 90% of the failures.
\

or use nytro programming. BOOM mind blown!
 
Keep trying to talk NosPro into doing a Nytro swap since he has one. Would be interesting to see differences
 
Just a note guys. The Yamaha shop here replaced several starters here last year. Only 2 on vipers and 1 was mine that i did myself. All the rest were on Vectors, Ventures, and Nytros. Their replacement have been all forms of failure (magnets, broken nose on starter, broken gear.) from all models. This is by far not only a viper problem but a 1049 engine problem no matter which sled its in. I know a guy with a venture that replaces 2 per winter since new (2012). If you ask them they will say the vipers arent that bad because they havent replaced very in them yet. I think the reason this has been seen so much on the vipers is that there are a lot more out there then the others. I'm sure that there are other factors with the vipers but the problem was here before they were even built. That all being said and looking back if I new all of this I would still have purchsed a viper after riding one because they rock. Ride it until it breaks, fix it and ride again. No worries.
 
There is more than one problem.In this day and age it should crank till started automatically. My truck does. Bump the key and it cranks till it starts with or without holding key.

I would think that almost all newer vehicles crank this way because the computer is programmed to do so in the event that the vehicle comes with optional remote start. But I agree that it should start quickly and firmly. Regardless of the kickback we are experiencing, the Viper sure does crank longer to start than what is typical for Yamaha.
 
I would think that almost all newer vehicles crank this way because the computer is programmed to do so in the event that the vehicle comes with optional remote start. But I agree that it should start quickly and firmly. Regardless of the kickback we are experiencing, the Viper sure does crank longer to start than what is typical for Yamaha.
I agree.
My nytro would start if you even thought about turning the key.
Now with the viper I think hard on turning the key in fear of it not firing properly or blowing a starter.

I've heard of the other sleds loosing the starters occasionally and I mean very occasionally. When they did fail it was usually the starter itself. Replace it and ride on. But when these vipers fail it's usually catastrophic melt down of all components involved!!
 


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