• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Any luck on warranty for worn driveshaft?

I found some wear on mine during my preseason maintenance. I got a pretty good fit with the dimple trick and was going to add loctite and call it good. But after some communication with members on a post concerning that shaft issue, I brought the Shaft and Caliper housing to my dealer who pressed the drivers and bearing off, and then with new shaft, old drivers and new bearing, he pressed all back together for $0 . It was ready the next morning too!

Thank god for that 5 year he threw my way!
Not his first go around with Yamacat quality and engineering!!!!!
 

Wonder how the Yamaha dealers are able to get these so fast (and I'm happy about it!)? When I was fixing my friends TCat about 2 weeks ago, his dealer told him there were 700 on backorder at Thief River Falls and it was going to take about 3-4 weeks to get one. Good news is, suddenly about 1 week later his showed up. I could tell it was taken off the assembly line because I could see there had been bolts already installed on that 3-hole flange that holds the seal on brake side. Whatever it takes I guess.
 
Yeah... I have an 800 mile parts sled here in the shop that i was gonna rob one off, but hell I'll put the new one on end of the week. I will see what the tolerances look like on the brand new shaft. BOP shaft saver might be the only real way to prevent this from happening again.
 
I believe Travis has a great device with this shaft saver. I have installed this year on my brand new axle in the SW. I also installed one on my daughter's 2016 Viper with 7500kms. There was a difference of .008" and the wedge took up this difference. Also installed one on a friends 2015 XF7000 with 1600kms with .012" slop and it took it up too. 1 more to go on my brother's 2019 SRX with 3500kms. Yet to pull it apart and check out the dia. Its im my trailer and turns over but won't start lol.
 
Kind of expensive, but if your out of warranty its the only real option. I get that AC doesn't want any threaded fasteners in the chain case, but damn.... has to be a better way of designing this..
 
It an easy fix for the bearing manufacturers. Design that bearing with a locking inner race like the ones that Yamaha uses. It's just bigger diameter thats all.
 
That would work I'm sure..... But Cat isn't interested in making the sleds more reliable, they are interested in sales numbers only.
 
Yeah... I have an 800 mile parts sled here in the shop that i was gonna rob one off, but hell I'll put the new one on end of the week. I will see what the tolerances look like on the brand new shaft. BOP shaft saver might be the only real way to prevent this from happening again.
IMO, if we all put them back together exactly the same way we bought them with stock OEM parts and don't do anything different, it WILL happen again. Based on what we all know now, loctite, BOP wedge, dimpling, peening, or a combination of these can prevent it from happening again. My point and opinion is if we do nothing different, we'll be fixing the same problem again (and again and again).
If you saw any previous posts from me, based on working on 4 tuned Tcats over the last month, they ALL had the same issues - track shaft spinning in BOTH bearings. Chain case side was minor and many might say not worth doing anything but the brake side on all of them was bad. We elected to fix with new track shaft, new bearing on brake side. Clean both bearings with acetone, blue loctite both sides upon assembly, AND install BOP wedge on brake side torqued to 35 ft/lbs. New seals both sides. Problem solved. Track shaft will no longer spin in either side.
 
Here is a picture of my drive shaft. Sled has 10,000km on it. It looks like the bearing had spun a bit the first time I had removed the brake assy. Ever since then I have always dimpled the shaft.
The wear doesn’t look too bad on mine, would like to measure it with a vernier to see exactly. I talked to my dealer today to see if I could get a shaft through warranty for a piece of mind as I have the BOP shaft saver here. He said he has never heard of any issues with the bearing spinning or having to replace the drive shaft. And of course I have to reassemble everything and being the whole sled in. Probably not going to happen as I’m leaving for vacation in a couple days and by the time I get back warranty will be up.
 

Attachments

  • 7CD00BB3-98F3-400A-9B6D-758A1CDF68E2.jpeg
    7CD00BB3-98F3-400A-9B6D-758A1CDF68E2.jpeg
    433.4 KB · Views: 131
IMO, your shaft is toast. Shaft is/was spinning inside bearing. I bet if you measure it, your shaft is worn at least .010" and your bearing has worn maybe .003". Total of .013" clearance between shaft and bearing = not acceptable. IMO, anything more than .005" or so is not acceptable.
It's REALLY hard to hear any Yamaha/Cat dealer saying they haven't heard of this problem. REALLY??? Completely unbelievable and unacceptable!
 
Does the YES warranty cover labor ?
Or is that a dealer decision ?
My labor on the axle alone was more than the axle .
 
Here is a picture of my drive shaft. Sled has 10,000km on it. It looks like the bearing had spun a bit the first time I had removed the brake assy. Ever since then I have always dimpled the shaft.
The wear doesn’t look too bad on mine, would like to measure it with a vernier to see exactly. I talked to my dealer today to see if I could get a shaft through warranty for a piece of mind as I have the BOP shaft saver here. He said he has never heard of any issues with the bearing spinning or having to replace the drive shaft. And of course I have to reassemble everything and being the whole sled in. Probably not going to happen as I’m leaving for vacation in a couple days and by the time I get back warranty will be up.
Can’t tell with just a pic but if you have to push the bearing on after peenining it will still work fine.
 


Back
Top