Barn of Parts New Driveshaft Solution

[jonlafon1]

I installed my Barn of Parts driveshaft bearing this past weekend, install wasn't terrible. The biggest pain was bleeding the brakes since I had to remove the caliper to press the old bearing out. Seems like a great product, previously I was running the wedge and it seemed to work for me but I previously did have the bearing spin on the shaft so I figured I would install this bearing and take the wedge to install on my 23 SRX.

I actually prefer the NEW fix over the wedge.I have used both and BOTH are better then the stock engineering SNAFU. Once you bleed the brake a few times it gets easier.. If your having issues PM me and I can walk you through the "bleed"

 

[GR8BBQ]

B.O.P. will be your favorite site for better than o.e.m. Upgrades

 

[Sevey]

I installed my Barn of Parts driveshaft bearing this past weekend, install wasn't terrible. The biggest pain was bleeding the brakes since I had to remove the caliper to press the old bearing out. Seems like a great product, previously I was running the wedge and it seemed to work for me but I previously did have the bearing spin on the shaft so I figured I would install this bearing and take the wedge to install on my 23 SRX.

As for the brake - I have got in the habit of just splitting the caliper when messing with the drive bearing. Something that helped me immensely was pulling the brake handle and wiring it to the bar. That way the fluid doesnt drain out of the line while its apart for a few hours or days. It is easy to reprime the system back up, when its back together.
MS

 

[GR8BBQ]

Reverse bleed for the win... Very easy, no mess. Get a disposable syringe of about 100ml and a small length of tubing that fits over the end of the syringe and the bleed valve. Fill the Syringe with brake fluid and connect it up. Take the cap off the resevior, open the bleed valve, and squeeze the syringe to push the fluid into the system from the bottom. Air wants to rise anyway, so use that to your advantage instead of trying to pump the fluid from the top with the brake handle. Also, make sure you open the bleed valve more than a little bit. Syringe and tubing should be a couple bucks at Tractor Supply or similar farm/home improvement store.

Here's a video with the basics in 2 minutes....

 

[earthling]

Reverse bleed for the win... Very easy, no mess. Get a disposable syringe of about 100ml and a small length of tubing that fits over the end of the syringe and the bleed valve. Fill the Syringe with brake fluid and connect it up. Take the cap off the resevior, open the bleed valve, and squeeze the syringe to push the fluid into the system from the bottom. Air wants to rise anyway, so use that to your advantage instead of trying to pump the fluid from the top with the brake handle. Also, make sure you open the bleed valve more than a little bit. Syringe and tubing should be a couple bucks at Tractor Supply or similar farm/home improvement store.

Here's a video with the basics in 2 minutes....

I get the large syringes from the barn where our horses are or from the vet. Basically free. Reverse bleed is a game changer.

 

[SumpBuster]

Reverse bleed for the win... Very easy, no mess. Get a disposable syringe of about 100ml and a small length of tubing that fits over the end of the syringe and the bleed valve. Fill the Syringe with brake fluid and connect it up. Take the cap off the resevior, open the bleed valve, and squeeze the syringe to push the fluid into the system from the bottom. Air wants to rise anyway, so use that to your advantage instead of trying to pump the fluid from the top with the brake handle. Also, make sure you open the bleed valve more than a little bit. Syringe and tubing should be a couple bucks at Tractor Supply or similar farm/home improvement store.

Here's a video with the basics in 2 minutes....

Great info!

 

[74Nitro]

Reverse bleed for the win... Very easy, no mess. Get a disposable syringe of about 100ml and a small length of tubing that fits over the end of the syringe and the bleed valve. Fill the Syringe with brake fluid and connect it up. Take the cap off the resevior, open the bleed valve, and squeeze the syringe to push the fluid into the system from the bottom. Air wants to rise anyway, so use that to your advantage instead of trying to pump the fluid from the top with the brake handle. Also, make sure you open the bleed valve more than a little bit. Syringe and tubing should be a couple bucks at Tractor Supply or similar farm/home improvement store.

Here's a video with the basics in 2 minutes....

Very slick.
Also good to change out the brake fluid every few years.
I remember that being one of the questions when I wrote my exam. I'm not even sure if I got that one right. The options were 6 months, a year, 2 years or five years.

 

[screnshaw400]

Just finished with installing mine. Pretty straightforward, since I've been through a chaincase explosion with my xf1100 and had to replace everything on that. Bleeding the brakes would be a lot easier if the bleeder screw was longer, allowing it to reverse bleed. I bleed my dirt bike hydraulic clutches in a matter of seconds, why can't the sleds be faster?

 

[74Nitro]

I just did a reverse bleed on a Viper. Worked great. I had the caliper completely apart. Another good tip is to shove the pistons all the way in before starting the bleed.
Also, after backing the bleed screw out 1/2 turn or so, keep pressure against it so the fluid doesn't push back by the threads as much.

 

[Paystar]

Guys,

I’m in need of some guidance. I’m installing the BOP bearing and collar. The bearing is seated all the way and spring clip is installed. When everything is put back in place I can’t get the rotor in far enough to put the retaining ring on. I’ve tried hitting the chain case side of the shaft to move it towards the break side and it doesn’t budge.

There were some high and low spots on the shaft from the previous inner race of the bearing race becoming one with the shaft. I was able to file it down enough to put the color on by hand. Where you see it is as far as I could do it by hand.

Is the end of the collar supposed to be flush with the shaft where it starts to taper down?

 

[REDLINE 1]

You may need to use a ratchet strap to squeeze the two sides of the tunnel together to get the clip on. I would think you would need to make sure the set screws in the collar are loose before u squeeze it together

 

[Fords4life]

Try running a ratchet strap across bottom of running boards behind chain case and brake roter and pull it together.

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

Works every time