jonlafon1
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Great point... I always check both guards(chaincase and brake rotor) when putting sled on lifts.Do you have a sled lift?
This can happen if sled lift is sitting on the plastic gaurd and chaincase and track is run on lift.
Some lifts have a extra piece for more clearance on the front lifting pad.
yamaha06
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Ahh yes good point, I do have a sled lift. Maybe the plastic guard was pushed up from the lift and this happened when I was running it on the lift, its about the only thing that makes sense.Do you have a sled lift?
This can happen if sled lift is sitting on the plastic gaurd and chaincase and track is run on lift.
Some lifts have a extra piece for more clearance on the front lifting pad.
Thanks
sxr70001
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I hav e a couple short 2x4's with holes drilled in them to put over the rubber feet on the sled lift to prevent just this.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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I have a 1×3 on my front pad to go under front of sled so mine won't hit.
Sevey
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You can see the groove on the shaft where it rests against the snap ring (or is supposed to rest against the snap ring). Definitely spinning. And not just a little - if you can see it in a pic - that's a lot.I have been running the wedge driveshaft saver for 8000km now, my driveshaft had some previous wear before installing the saver but I was able to still get everything tight enough to hopefully eliminate it spinning more or so I had hoped. I was just in the process of greasing the bearings and I noticed on the plastic guard below the brake disc there is a grove worn into the plastic, not sure how this could of happened as there is a space between the disc and the plastic guard, has anyone seen this before? I also noticed the shaft must of been spinning a bit recently as on the face of the disc and the bearing they are both brown maybe caused by heat? I have been installing my driveshaft saver to 55 foot pounds, I may have to go a little tighter on it, I had also been prick punching the shaft to try and get a tighter fit. Its odd because when you look at the inner race of the bearing where it mates on the shaft it doesn't seem to show any sign of spinning. I just know the last time I greased the bearing I didn't have the brown ring on the outside of the inner race or on the flange of the brake disc.
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If you have time, pull the shaft and have it built up with weld. If you dont have time, slap it back together and run it. Going to be a short season anyway.
MS
JerryBones
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I'm in the same boat with my drive shaft. at 3000 miles when I put a tune in i did the peening with a carbide stud and green loctite but i think it was already too far gone at that point for that to do anything. Last year at about 5000 miles, I installed the wedge at 45 ft lbs and left it. I thought i was in the ball park because anything higher than that and my rotor had no play. This year I dug into it more so to check the bearing and found that my shaft has spun a lot more, There was no evidence of green loctite or peening and the wedge clearly wasn't doing anything. I re-greased the bearing, and put it back together with the wedge at 65 ft lbs. I know that probably won't do anything but the season is half over and I don't feel like pulling the shaft out when I likely won't put more than another 500 miles on this year. I will pull the shaft in the summer and get it spray welded and machined down to a better fit and re-install the wedge. I have had no vibration, no pulsation in the bake, nothing to indicate that there was an issue.You can see the groove on the shaft where it rests against the snap ring (or is supposed to rest against the snap ring). Definitely spinning. And not just a little - if you can see it in a pic - that's a lot.
If you have time, pull the shaft and have it built up with weld. If you dont have time, slap it back together and run it. Going to be a short season anyway.
MS
Sevey
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I hate to say this - but even though this issue makes me grind my teeth - it is amazing how the sled keeps running, and does not malfunction with this 'lack of engineering'. Have you heard of anyone that has been stranded because the shaft is worn?
MS
MS
Turboflash
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Only if it grinds so much for so long that it weakens shaft and shaft breaks.
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The best repair will be the lower driveshaft repair from Barn of Parts at @$160.The whole point of this repair is to avoid the expense and labor ,as outlined in thread #291 on this subject .Great point... I always check both guards(chaincase and brake rotor) when putting sled on lifts.
Last edited:
hibshman25
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Just an update on some findings as the season has been progressing. Have now had 4 cases in which set screws came out of the collar. 3 of the cases the collar actually worked itself out of the bearing. I've posted before about checking to make sure your screws have not come loose, but just wanted to stress this again and encourage the use of loctite from here on out for extra measure.
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
I put that $*#^ on everything
jonlafon1
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Back up to the top..
1500 Miles on Cat 800 this season with NEW BRP shaft fix. All 3 screws never budged(blue locker). Worked flawless on this sled. I sold the sled. But I ran it pretty hard for 3 days at the end of the season with lots of up and down pulls, otherwise this was the wife ride. This was installed on a shaft that was worn very badly (2300 miles on).. The original BRP wedge at 60 lbs was not working.. I actually like this fix better then the wedge IMO..
1500 Miles on Cat 800 this season with NEW BRP shaft fix. All 3 screws never budged(blue locker). Worked flawless on this sled. I sold the sled. But I ran it pretty hard for 3 days at the end of the season with lots of up and down pulls, otherwise this was the wife ride. This was installed on a shaft that was worn very badly (2300 miles on).. The original BRP wedge at 60 lbs was not working.. I actually like this fix better then the wedge IMO..
STAIN
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I totally agree. I don't know why anyone would buy the wedge when this is available.I actually like this fix better then the wedge IMO..
I installed 5 of them this year with no issues. 1 on a brand new sled and 4 on worn shafts.
jonlafon1
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I totally agree. I don't know why anyone would buy the wedge when this is available.
I installed 5 of them this year with no issues. 1 on a brand new sled and 4 on worn shafts.
Its a really nice heavy duty piece, that's got a good fit. I would even use red locker if need be.. Its not like you cant hit the screws with a mini torch/heat if you used RED.. I thought about putting the wedge back in when selling sled, but on a worn shaft the wedge just aint cutting it.. I left the collar on the sled as i just couldn't send it off F'd up
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I installed the latest BOP lower driveshaft repair at the start of the season with no issues.My shaft was the original with 7400 miles ,and saved me a bunch of time and labor by putting this on my lower shaft.Travis has a great repair here.This will get me to my next sled after 1/2 more seasons
Its a really nice heavy duty piece, that's got a good fit. I would even use red locker if need be.. Its not like you cant hit the screws with a mini torch/heat if you used RED.. I thought about putting the wedge back in when selling sled, but on a worn shaft the wedge just aint cutting it.. I left the collar on the sled as i just couldn't send it off F'd up
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