Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Took the sled to the dealer yesterday. THey have a new Vector (non-ER) that they took from another dealer. Even tho its new, they can compare.
We'll see! DIdnt get as much snow as they were saying....maybe 6" outta the foot they were predicting.
(my 7 yr old wanted me to put this on!!! he's so silly!!!)
We'll see! DIdnt get as much snow as they were saying....maybe 6" outta the foot they were predicting.
(my 7 yr old wanted me to put this on!!! he's so silly!!!)Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
ttt
ssvolvo
Veteran
I've logged 2500 miles on the Vector this year. Typical problems: Tors, track noise, clutch noise. Dissconnected the tors and turned up the radio!.
The rear track shock is garbage. It's hard to believe Yammy hasn't bought into the position sensitive rear shock technology that Polaris and Ski-Doo has used for years. The Ski-Doo Legend Touring 4 stroke has a variable rate shock at the rear skid that looks about the same size as the Vector rear shock. I'm going to measure one up to try it. May have to change the ends. I tried a shock from a Polaris Edge but it's too short. I've started to make one (you're gonna laugh) from the front of a Toyota truck but haven't had time to finish it. Cut it down and revalved and am putting an oil bypass in the center of the ride height for 2.5 inches that should smooth out the stutters. And then a remote reservoir with an adjustable compression dial to really dial it in.
I rated the ski springs and they are really heavy. I installed an old set from an 04 RX-1 which where way softer but the sled rolled over really easy so I put the originals back on.
In the middle of this whole mess I bought a holdover Rev MXZ sdi because of the low price and just refuse to ride the Vector anymore! Rode 270 yesterday in Quebec on rough trails and couldn't believe it. BRP really did their homework on this one.
SORRY for the ramblings but for you guys that want a good ride and no bottoming a variable rate shock is in order. Problem is no one makes one for the Vector. Today I rode an 03 Ski-Doo 800 non Rev and it rides way better than the Vector. It DOES have a variable rate shock in the rear skid. Also it doesn't bottom out very often...unlike the Vector. I really doubt Yamaha would come out with a decent rear shock for the Vector skid as I don't think they will use it next year.
I'm not really dissing the Vector. It's the cheapest sled I've owned. No oil and good mileage and No warranty repairs. It also beat the 800 Ski-Doo hands down. Great torque too.
The rear track shock is garbage. It's hard to believe Yammy hasn't bought into the position sensitive rear shock technology that Polaris and Ski-Doo has used for years. The Ski-Doo Legend Touring 4 stroke has a variable rate shock at the rear skid that looks about the same size as the Vector rear shock. I'm going to measure one up to try it. May have to change the ends. I tried a shock from a Polaris Edge but it's too short. I've started to make one (you're gonna laugh) from the front of a Toyota truck but haven't had time to finish it. Cut it down and revalved and am putting an oil bypass in the center of the ride height for 2.5 inches that should smooth out the stutters. And then a remote reservoir with an adjustable compression dial to really dial it in.
I rated the ski springs and they are really heavy. I installed an old set from an 04 RX-1 which where way softer but the sled rolled over really easy so I put the originals back on.
In the middle of this whole mess I bought a holdover Rev MXZ sdi because of the low price and just refuse to ride the Vector anymore! Rode 270 yesterday in Quebec on rough trails and couldn't believe it. BRP really did their homework on this one.
SORRY for the ramblings but for you guys that want a good ride and no bottoming a variable rate shock is in order. Problem is no one makes one for the Vector. Today I rode an 03 Ski-Doo 800 non Rev and it rides way better than the Vector. It DOES have a variable rate shock in the rear skid. Also it doesn't bottom out very often...unlike the Vector. I really doubt Yamaha would come out with a decent rear shock for the Vector skid as I don't think they will use it next year.
I'm not really dissing the Vector. It's the cheapest sled I've owned. No oil and good mileage and No warranty repairs. It also beat the 800 Ski-Doo hands down. Great torque too.
Yama-Crazy
VIP Member
I rode a vector today thought it rode pretty darn good :? Handled great took bumps well and has lots of travel. I thought it felt pretty tight well built and fast...and I've rode new ski-doo revs and renegades maybe the one I rode is set up right?? 
kviper
VIP Member
Ohlin makes a remote res with high speed and slow speed valving and compression clicker for the Vector. I have one in my Vector and it is a BIG!!!! improvment over stock. If i trade the sled for an Apex the shock and clutching will be for sale if my friend trades his Vector as well. If he don't trade and i do, he want's it. kviper
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
kviper said:
from a ride standpoint, what did it improve? my problem IS NOT bottoming...I WISH IT WOULD BOTTOM!!! (sorry for the rant) 560 miles and bottomed it 3X...I want to bottom about 3X every 150 miles..
if those front springs are so heavy, maybe thats why they give you so little adjustment. Still think the front ski shocks are too stiff. THis whole sled is stiff!
Love the motor and everything else tho!!!
ssvolvo
Veteran
If you want more bottoming loosen the transfer rod nuts at the rear of the skid and turn them down toward the ground a little at a time. This will increase the transfer and the rear of the skid will be MUCH softer before the rear couples with the front. This makes a huge difference. Don't go too far as this adjustment is extremely fussy. Try about a half turn on each nut.
SKIDOZER
Pro
UNDECIDED I made the adjustments to my vector that were in begining of this post and from bruce schrader.
I loosened the front shock springs with sled off the ground just until all the pressure was off of them.
center shock loosened the spring up until all pressure was off did not tuch the front limiter straps.
still have the rear coupler 1 turn tighter than stock ,springs in middle.
anti bottom stopper all the way to back.
what a difference front shocks now move sled now rides good through the stutter bumps.
let my brother who rides a firecat and rev rider buddy ride it and they still cant belive the difference.
it does not throw you off the seat now when you hit a big bump.
i will still put a new shock in next year with more damping but am much happier with sled wish i would have done it before season ended
I loosened the front shock springs with sled off the ground just until all the pressure was off of them.
center shock loosened the spring up until all pressure was off did not tuch the front limiter straps.
still have the rear coupler 1 turn tighter than stock ,springs in middle.
anti bottom stopper all the way to back.
what a difference front shocks now move sled now rides good through the stutter bumps.
let my brother who rides a firecat and rev rider buddy ride it and they still cant belive the difference.
it does not throw you off the seat now when you hit a big bump.
i will still put a new shock in next year with more damping but am much happier with sled wish i would have done it before season ended
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
SKIDOZER said:UNDECIDED I made the adjustments to my vector that were in begining of this post and from bruce schrader.
I loosened the front shock springs with sled off the ground just until all the pressure was off of them.
center shock loosened the spring up until all pressure was off did not tuch the front limiter straps.
still have the rear coupler 1 turn tighter than stock ,springs in middle.
anti bottom stopper all the way to back.
what a difference front shocks now move sled now rides good through the stutter bumps.
let my brother who rides a firecat and rev rider buddy ride it and they still cant belive the difference.
it does not throw you off the seat now when you hit a big bump.
i will still put a new shock in next year with more damping but am much happier with sled wish i would have done it before season ended
My sled is set up the same except the rear cam is at "soft", and I've removed the stops. Very little difference between "soft" and "middle" cam setting.
Stutter bumps are punishing on my sled.
As to the rods - they are now 1 turn "more transfer" than stock. If I get one more ride in, will try one more turn.
kviper
VIP Member
If you buy an Ohlin frome Bruce at pioneer i think he will revalve it one time for free if you want changes. The Ohlin the way i have it valved right now is very plush in the stutter's and is on the softest setting but can be turned up 18 or 20 click's stiffer if you are in some bigger stuff. The big problem with the stock shock is the rebound dampening is way to stiff and does not let the suspendtion recover by the time you hit the next bump so you end up on the coupling (stiffer dampening) portion of your suspendtion. Bruce said the same thing as far as the rebound dampening goes. I even had him soften the rebound on my Ohlin more than the way it came. Trust me the rebound is where the big problem is with the ride quality. I can actualy feel the suspendtion stroking and working now. kviper
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
kviper said:
I trust you kviper. THe cat's butt would be a dual clicker, but it's not offered if I read things right. Still waiting to her from my dealer, but I think I already know what they're gonna say.
If things don't work out thru my dealer, then Pioneer or Maxx Perf will be getting my business.
kviper
VIP Member
Undecided did you ever measure what you have for sit in. I would like to know as Yamaha is checking in to some possible spring issue's. I am thinking that by next season there may be a rebound and compression adjustable shock available. As i said earlier if i trade my sled i will take my Ohlin off and sell it. It would be reasonable compared to new. kviper
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
kviper said:
Yes I have and if memory serves, with the cams on "soft" I had about 3-4" of sit in. To get this I would lift the sled completely off the ground and set it back down gently and not press down on the skid. I measured from the rear grab bar to the ground and got 22-23". THen I sat on it and turned around and took the above measurement. I didn't measure the sit in with the cams on medium. Not knowing what Yami wants for sit in, these seems OK as compared to the Poo rising rate skids I've owned.
Let me know what you do with your shock. A rebound/compression adjustable if priced right would be my first choice, but they'll probby charge two legs :shock: for it!
Another option I might look into is Ryde FX (Arvin) shocks. I plan on calling Arvin to see if they plan on offering anything that will fit. I think a position sensitive rear shock would work well, coupled with the right front track shock.
I have to admit I've never been on a sled that I liked that had gas shocks. This sled rides about the same or a little worse than my 98 XCR600.
Keep us posted KV! I'll owe you a few dozen!!
kviper
VIP Member
If i remember corectly you weigh about the same as i do and with every thing set to stock and cam on H i was at least half way in to the travel and my friend that weigh's the same has even more set in. I will have to decide on the new sled by April 15 so then i will know if the shock will be for sale. The rear of rear shock does the most work and determin's your ride quality and is a cheap shock. The skid is capable and with the proper shock combo they do ride nice. You should have 17mm or 2/3" gap in your control rod's when you are siting on it. Good luck. kviper
kviper
VIP Member
If i remember corectly you weigh about the same as i do and with every thing set to stock and cam on H i was at least half way in to the travel and my friend that weigh's the same has even more set in. I will have to decide on the new sled by April 15 so then i will know if the shock will be for sale. The rear of rear shock does the most work and determin's your ride quality and is a cheap shock. The skid is capable and with the proper shock combo they do ride nice. You should have 17mm or 2/3" gap in your control rod's when you are siting on it. Good luck. kviper
