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So after not blowing a belt in 2000 miles last year all of a sudden I've blown 2 in 200 miles this year. 3 changes,TP secondary spring wrapped at 3-3, TP secondary adjuster and track change with studs. I'm on a week long trip up north. Pulled my secondary apart last night thankfully where we are staying has a heated garage. Everything looks good. Not sure what the issue is. Hopefully I have better luck today. Could I have had my deflection too tight? That's the only thing I can think of that might have been different from last year.

So you have made from the looks of it, three changes that make life worse on the belt. That heavy mongo orange driven spring is going to add heat and be less efficient, the 22 tooth gear makes it harder on belt, and studding the track.

Deflection is not going to change anything to contribute or detract from belt life what so ever.

That spring is way too stiff IMO making way too much heat just pinching the belt all the time. Too stiff of a driven springs like this make heat and transmit less power to the track when not needed for belt pinch.

I'm running a very high traction package in mine (lets just say it doesn't not spin unless in loose or powder and the studs doing nothing, ( it in fact, ratchets the track and the track needs to be tight! ) , a 270 Hurricane Race tune and 22 tooth gear with a very aggressive helix and Daltons Orange/Black driven spring ( its just right, not to soft, and not too stiff ) in mine wrapped between 60 and 70 depending on conditions, no heat and no belt breakage, put 675 miles on in the UP this week thrashing on it. Same belt the sled came with. 840 miles stock and 675 boosted. No wear and does what its suppose to do.
 

So you have made from the looks of it, three changes that make life worse on the belt. That heavy mongo orange driven spring is going to add heat and be less efficient, the 22 tooth gear makes it harder on belt, and studding the track.

Deflection is not going to change anything to contribute or detract from belt life what so ever.

That spring is way too stiff IMO making way too much heat just pinching the belt all the time. Too stiff of a driven springs like this make heat and transmit less power to the track when not needed for belt pinch.

I'm running a very high traction package in mine (lets just say it doesn't not spin unless in loose or powder and the studs doing nothing, ( it in fact, ratchets the track and the track needs to be tight! ) , a 270 Hurricane Race tune and 22 tooth gear with a very aggressive helix and Daltons Orange/Black driven spring ( its just right, not to soft, and not too stiff ) in mine wrapped between 60 and 70 depending on conditions, no heat and no belt breakage, put 675 miles on in the UP this week thrashing on it. Same belt the sled came with. 840 miles stock and 675 boosted. No wear and does what its suppose to do.
Thanks for chiming in Mike. My first thought was the TP spring cause really it's the only clutching change I made since 2000 trouble free miles last year. But by gearing up and changing the track I was running around in circles trying to pinpoint the issue. Seeing I left my stock spring at home do you think I'd be better wrapping it at 50 degrees until I can get my stock spring back in?
 
Thanks for chiming in Mike. My first thought was the TP spring cause really it's the only clutching change I made since 2000 trouble free miles last year. But by gearing up and changing the track I was running around in circles trying to pinpoint the issue. Seeing I left my stock spring at home do you think I'd be better wrapping it at 50 degrees until I can get my stock spring back in?

Taking pressure off the driven is going to create less heat for sure, unless its slipping, which I highly doubt is happening here. Loosen it as a stop gap. I'd recommend the Dalton driven spring myself.
 
Taking pressure off the driven is going to create less heat for sure, unless its slipping, which I highly doubt is happening here. Loosen it as a stop gap. I'd recommend the Dalton driven spring myself.
Thanks for the advice Mike I'll give it a try today.
 
Taking pressure off the driven is going to create less heat for sure, unless its slipping, which I highly doubt is happening here. Loosen it as a stop gap. I'd recommend the Dalton driven spring myself.
Mike, dropped to 50 degrees and hammered on it today. No belt issues, no sign of slippage and clutches are relatively cool. Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.
 
My first one blew at 120+ mph, second one at 60-70 mph.

So today I dropped my deflection a bit with my TP adjuster. No blown belts, I can't see the deflection make any difference however my clutches were cool and no signs of belt slippage. Not sure what's going on, kinda scared to get on it now but I've broke this belt in gingerly for 300 miles, tomorrow I'm going to push it so hopefully I don't grenade another. If I do I'm going back to the stock spring and shimmed helix that worked flawless last year.
Now that's something to think about,my clutching is running very lose deflection now by accident,when I ran it last,my clutches are cool to the touch,and it runs awesome bottom to mid,but no top end.
 
Glad to here it helped you out!
Hey mike,i may retry the straight 38 allen sent me with my kit,but the secondary red spring he sent had to be indexed to 0 and 1 for 10 degrees,because this spring is not for a Yamaha helix,i did not like the way it slipped out of the helix hole and would not hold side pressure,in his defence we had it would to 30 degrees,way overwound,but I got the TPI orange,and only tried it once with its orange primary,and clutches were hot,but my next move may be tpi orange secondary w/38 instead of 35 which had my rpms raised to high,do you feel this secondary set up with my front stm s loaded to 83 grms on allens pink primary 30/90 spring and tpi secondary will work togeather ok? I to have 22/41 on my ltx-le 137.
 
Hey mike,i may retry the straight 38 allen sent me with my kit,but the secondary red spring he sent had to be indexed to 0 and 1 for 10 degrees,because this spring is not for a Yamaha helix,i did not like the way it slipped out of the helix hole and would not hold side pressure,in his defence we had it would to 30 degrees,way overwound,but I got the TPI orange,and only tried it once with its orange primary,and clutches were hot,but my next move may be tpi orange secondary w/38 instead of 35 which had my rpms raised to high,do you feel this secondary set up with my front stm s loaded to 83 grms on allens pink primary 30/90 spring and tpi secondary will work togeather ok? I to have 22/41 on my ltx-le 137.

I'd run the Dalton Black/Orange Pete. IMO that TPI orange is darn heavy. Try the Dalton spring and 38 combo to start.

Too heavy driven springs just heat things up and pinch the belt hard for no reason. Ideal setup is just enough driven to prevent slippage, any more than that and it just makes heat. You only want enough driven to prevent slippage is all.
 
TP Orange was a Biotch to install(without a helper) at 60 degrees(3/3) so you know its a monster...LOL

Interesting to set it to 50 degrees.....good test for sure.
 
TP Orange was a Biotch to install(without a helper) at 60 degrees(3/3) so you know its a monster...LOL

Interesting to set it to 50 degrees.....good test for sure.

You got that right Dan!! I’m staring off with mine wrapped at 3-3 but if I noticed to much heat I’m going to try setting it to 50 degrees.
 
Taking pressure off the driven is going to create less heat for sure, unless its slipping, which I highly doubt is happening here. Loosen it as a stop gap. I'd recommend the Dalton driven spring myself.
x2 , very happy with the Dalton spring also , 70
 


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