ClutchMaster
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- 2015 Viper 270 hurricane,
2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
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Remove the c-clip and washer it will be fine. Make sure the washer is only 1mm tho
ClutchMaster
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The c-clip does nothing the bearing is pressed onto the shaft very hard.
ClutchMaster
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That will give you almost 3mm
Actually 2.5mm
Actually 2.5mm
DMCTurbo
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What twist would you run the epi purple at?What tune are you running with that clutch setup? Thats a setup we'd run on a 240 tune and have no problems with for thousands of trail miles.
But judging by those RPMs, that seems a bit high and light. Is that off the MAX recall on the tach?
If your running up on any of the big tunes you don't have enough secondary spring to keep a hold on the belt up top for snow or actual trail conditions.
Reading above where your on the lake running in the powder, I'm going to guess you are running a bigger tune that 240 and theres now way to keep a hold on that secondary with that clutch setup. It's not offset related because you are still not low enough to line up properly 60.9 mm. Your offset is still far to great at that spec! I could pop a belt at will before running the Black/Orange in the powder just like you just proved.
Get your offset down even more and if running on big tunes your'e going to need a bunch more secondary spring. EPI Cat purple, Dalton Cat white or Cat sno-pro Green, all of which are Cat driven springs I have been having great success now with in keeping a hold on the belt in the secondary with.
I double checked the Hurricane bar and did my clutch offset manually and the Hurricane bar is spot on. Nice work on that bar Dave! I also set for zero float at any time and bolt the driven down solid.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
What twist would you run the epi purple at?
I've run it all over but seemed to work well at 0-1 with the 35 helix and stock Yamaha updated rollers.
I'm on to an even stiffer spring now then even the Dalton White or sno-pro cat green too. I'm now using the Cutler Silver/White with the Hi-Torque rollers at 9-1 along with the stock 35 helix. if I go any softer in spring or more helix its slipping the belt over 100 MPH. Keeping in mind the hi-torques I had to pull a bunch of weight out initially to keep RPM's up over the stock updated rollers. If I try and run the 39-35 on this Cutler spring its slipping the belt and black marks the clutches on the high HP tunes with the 8DN. My sled does not work with lighter springs at all. And it really does not like lighter springs with the h-torque rollers. Fine down low but over 100 MPH forget about it. And I don't mean ice or easy pull conditions, I mean with a load on it in the snow. Can get by with light springs on ice, but who runs ice or roads all the time?
KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
I'm also running with no circlip on the shaft for alignment with no shims for proper alignment and have been trying floating the secondary 1.5mm. So far it seems fine as long as I keep shaft and secondary greased up so it slides easily. By no means am I seeing any diff in temps or performance either floating or locking it down stationary.
The inside sheave just flat out runs hot no matter what. I checked the temps yesterday on the clutches after a hard pull in the DEEP snow and it was 160F at the post and 110F on the outer edge as you moved away from the post. 8DN was 130F and the secondary was 120F using cutler silver/white on 9-1 and 35 helix. I now have a 3" boat bilge blower I'll be installing to blow on that inner sheave to cool it down along with the inner side of the belt. This is some really happy clutching now! I was trying more helix with a 39-35 and was getting some black marking on that hot inner sheave, it has since gone away with the move to the 35 helix with the hi-torque rollers.
The inside sheave just flat out runs hot no matter what. I checked the temps yesterday on the clutches after a hard pull in the DEEP snow and it was 160F at the post and 110F on the outer edge as you moved away from the post. 8DN was 130F and the secondary was 120F using cutler silver/white on 9-1 and 35 helix. I now have a 3" boat bilge blower I'll be installing to blow on that inner sheave to cool it down along with the inner side of the belt. This is some really happy clutching now! I was trying more helix with a 39-35 and was getting some black marking on that hot inner sheave, it has since gone away with the move to the 35 helix with the hi-torque rollers.
Mototown
TY 4 Stroke Guru
This is worse than a belt..lol
Looks like it has a lot of miles on it though...it blew out the front & even bent the steering rod
Looks like it has a lot of miles on it though...it blew out the front & even bent the steering rod
Last edited:
mcuhan
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980 miles on 18SW RTX-SE. First belt at 415 miles. Second at 800. Third and fourth in the last 180. Had it dealer between two and three and all that seemed to do was add some goofy noise to the secondary. Offset was 62 from factory. Trying to get that closer to 58 per call with Ulmer. Not sure how to do that with only one washer to remove. Very disappointed in this issue. First belt on trail. Second on lake trail. Third and fourth in deep fluff yesterday. Biggest bummer is these are blowing without being pinned to the bar. I'm being cautious and still very poor results. All stock except upgrading to 1.6 cobra.
Side belly pan finally got tired of the punishment too and cracked up front.
Side belly pan finally got tired of the punishment too and cracked up front.
ClutchMaster
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Pull the circlip and washer that will get you below 60mm980 miles on 18SW RTX-SE. First belt at 415 miles. Second at 800. Third and fourth in the last 180. Had it dealer between two and three and all that seemed to do was add some goofy noise to the secondary. Offset was 62 from factory. Trying to get that closer to 58 per call with Ulmer. Not sure how to do that with only one washer to remove. Very disappointed in this issue. First belt on trail. Second on lake trail. Third and fourth in deep fluff yesterday. Biggest bummer is these are blowing without being pinned to the bar. I'm being cautious and still very poor results. All stock except upgrading to 1.6 cobra.
Side belly pan finally got tired of the punishment too and cracked up front.
journeyman
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This is worse than a belt..lolView attachment 146923
Looks like it has a lot of miles on it though...it blew out the front & even bent the steering rod
Ouch!! Even a belly pan belt protector probably wouldn't have saved that.
klr650r
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I finally Blew a belt...actually 2 back to back (400 miles apart). Probly have close to 8000 miles on the machine, every 1400-2000 miles I’d change the belt.
My clutch spring are probably getting tired. That mixed with hard driving in warm conditions didn’t make for good belt life.
But overall, I can’t complain for belt life on this machine. Right from day 1 it was great.
By contrast my Doo XS1200 at the start had a hard time going over 700 miles/belt. Even fully adjusted and floated. Had maybe a 1000mile belt life. Belts where 2x the price.
My clutch spring are probably getting tired. That mixed with hard driving in warm conditions didn’t make for good belt life.
But overall, I can’t complain for belt life on this machine. Right from day 1 it was great.
By contrast my Doo XS1200 at the start had a hard time going over 700 miles/belt. Even fully adjusted and floated. Had maybe a 1000mile belt life. Belts where 2x the price.
Dr. FeeLGooD
VIP Member
I think my offset is pretty close to the 58. Hard to tell for sure with the junk tools I have. I tried a Dalton black orange wrapped at 80 as per attached instructions but that was too tight, I think. I now have the stock spring tightened one notch to 70 and I think its better. Not so much dust. I think I will wrap it to 80 or maybe try the Dalton a little looser. I have blown 4 belts in about 1200 miles. Always from working it or shortly after.
sledheadgeorge
TY 4 Stroke God
What are your clutch measurements and off set?I finally Blew a belt...actually 2 back to back (400 miles apart). Probly have close to 8000 miles on the machine, every 1400-2000 miles I’d change the belt.
My clutch spring are probably getting tired. That mixed with hard driving in warm conditions didn’t make for good belt life.
But overall, I can’t complain for belt life on this machine. Right from day 1 it was great.
By contrast my Doo XS1200 at the start had a hard time going over 700 miles/belt. Even fully adjusted and floated. Had maybe a 1000mile belt life. Belts where 2x the price.
klr650r
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What are your clutch measurements and off set?
No idea...never needed to check. What mesurement do you guys use?
Outside Stationary on primary and outside movable on secondary?
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Was this on Mary Lake Port Sydney ?This is worse than a belt..lolView attachment 146923
Looks like it has a lot of miles on it though...it blew out the front & even bent the steering rod
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