1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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- Marquette, MI
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- Yamaha FX Nytro RTX SE
Lucky your sled didn't start on fire!
Throw that gasket in the trash!
You already have seen flaws first hand of this rollover valve kit.
Throw that gasket in the trash!
You already have seen flaws first hand of this rollover valve kit.
Confused
Lifetime Member
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- Mound, MN
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- '25 Sidewinder SRX #723
'24 MXZ 850 Turbo R Comp
'23 MXZ Blizzard 850 ETEC
'24 MXZ Neo+ 600
'88 SnoScoot
Lucky your sled didn't start on fire!
Throw that gasket in the trash!
You already have seen flaws first hand of this rollover valve kit.
I think I'll go with the sealant. I do think the gasket works and likely held longer than the sealant would have in my case. I am deleting the ROV so there should never be an issue again. Everything is apart and I'll be cleaning it up good an putting down some Right Stuff. Any tips on the sealant besides clean surfaces? What torque is the stock setup?
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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- Yamaha FX Nytro RTX SE
When I did mine, I resealed to the cover on the bench. Put a good bead of sealant on it. Installed bolts with light pressure on it. Let sit overnight and then tightened down evenly the next day.
I waited a few days before putting oil in the tank.
I waited a few days before putting oil in the tank.
NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
If your using The Right Stuff sealant follow the directions. I like to let it sit over night before putting oil in it.
Confused
Lifetime Member
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- Location
- Mound, MN
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- Snowmobile
- '25 Sidewinder SRX #723
'24 MXZ 850 Turbo R Comp
'23 MXZ Blizzard 850 ETEC
'24 MXZ Neo+ 600
'88 SnoScoot
Another interesting find while disassembling was all of the muffler bolts were loose. 1 was backed out 1/16" even. These were replaced when I had it apart earlier this year with regular bolts. High temp antisieze was applied and the bolts were all torqued to spec. Any idea's here?
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
I stuck with the t screws and remove the muffler when I get bored. They stay tight. Use copper antisieze or the silver stuff. Doesnt seem to matter which one. Only takes a few minutes to remove it.Another interesting find while disassembling was all of the muffler bolts were loose. 1 was backed out 1/16" even. These were replaced when I had it apart earlier this year with regular bolts. High temp antisieze was applied and the bolts were all torqued to spec. Any idea's here?
Confused
Lifetime Member
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- '25 Sidewinder SRX #723
'24 MXZ 850 Turbo R Comp
'23 MXZ Blizzard 850 ETEC
'24 MXZ Neo+ 600
'88 SnoScoot
I stuck with the t screws and remove the muffler when I get bored. They stay tight. Use copper antisieze or the silver stuff. Doesnt seem to matter which one. Only takes a few minutes to remove it.
I'll go a little more this time. It surprised me when I seen it that loose. For sure would have been leaking in the next couple hundred miles.
Turboflash
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- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
I think torque spec is 9 ft. lbs criss-cross pattern then final to 18 ft. lbs.
Confused
Lifetime Member
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- Mound, MN
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- '25 Sidewinder SRX #723
'24 MXZ 850 Turbo R Comp
'23 MXZ Blizzard 850 ETEC
'24 MXZ Neo+ 600
'88 SnoScoot
Thanks, this was done but still came loose. I guess I will need to keep a closer eye on them. I hate to get crazy tightening them down and strip the turbo threads. I've seen a company that sells studs. Maybe I should look into this option.I think torque spec is 9 ft. lbs criss-cross pattern then final to 18 ft. lbs.
Kuzzy
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- 2020 yamaha sidewinder xtx se
2022 STX GT
2017 King Cat M9000
you cant really do all studs with the stock muffler, you cant really tilt the muffler enough to clear the studs and pull it out of there. My father made a special wrench to get onto the rubber bushing tab, and modified the tab to be removed. I have also seen him blow a turbo gasket with the studs because the nuts worked loose. IMO unless you come up with some ingenuity there, you may solve one problem and create another.Thanks, this was done but still came loose. I guess I will need to keep a closer eye on them. I hate to get crazy tightening them down and strip the turbo threads. I've seen a company that sells studs. Maybe I should look into this option.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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- 2023 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Best muffler bolts are the stock ones. Studs and nuts no workie.
74Nitro
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Agree, and they are stainless too.Best muffler bolts are the stock ones. Studs and nuts no workie.
Fords4life
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Stock is best, only thing i will add is i run a thread chaser tap into turbo bolt holes, and thread chaser die down stock bolts to get rid of the triangle shape on threads, then nickle anti sieze, never a loose bolt on three sleds in 4 years, knock on wood!Best muffler bolts are the stock ones. Studs and nuts no workie.
Erskin
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265 maxspool TD SM
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what size chaser tap you use? Mine are out now and they could stand to be freshened up..
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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- Welch MN
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- 2023 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Stock is best, only thing i will add is i run a thread chaser tap into turbo bolt holes, and thread chaser die down stock bolts to get rid of the triangle shape on threads, then nickle anti sieze, never a loose bolt on three sleds in 4 years, knock on wood!
I always thought the triangle shape is what made them better and hold. Regular bolts don't hold as well. I'd never run a die down them for this reason.
I've tried stainless bolts and header bolts, none want to hold like the stock ones, so you TQ them harder and then they stretch.
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