jonlafon1
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I knew you would see the light!! No derby stuff with the sidewinder ! !I've seen the light lol and will be deleting mine upon reassembly. I agree in my case sealant also wouldn't have held and would speculate the gasket held longer than the sealant would have.
Confused
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I knew you would see the light!! No derby stuff with the sidewinder ! !
lol I sure hope not. Unfortunately the rear corner of the tunnel/heat exchanger is slightly bent on the Venture. Time to decide if insurance or just fix what I can is the best option for it. Sadly the machine is/was mint and just turned over 1k miles with it this weekend.
jonlafon1
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Tough break.. Sometimes you got to try to look at it like this.. > no one got hurt, and sleds can be fixed or replaced. Lives and memories cant be..lol I sure hope not. Unfortunately the rear corner of the tunnel/heat exchanger is slightly bent on the Venture. Time to decide if insurance or just fix what I can is the best option for it. Sadly the machine is/was mint and just turned over 1k miles with it this weekend.
5 years from now you will be like "remember when you plowed that Polaris" Still pisses you off though! Give it time
Confused
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Tough break.. Sometimes you got to try to look at it like this.. > no one got hurt, and sleds can be fixed or replaced. Lives and memories cant be..
5 years from now you will be like "remember when you plowed that Polaris" Still pisses you off though! Give it time
I agree and told her the same thing. I hate to say it but that Polaris took it like a boss. Only a few scratches on the rear bumper and rear suspension (Rush). Pushed it 2 feet sideways lol.
Turboflash
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I would suggest, that if possible, let tank sit overnight before installing back on sled and filling with oil so sealant can cure both inside and out before being submerged in oil.There are a few choices of sealant to use, when I had my oil tank leaking NYTURBO recommended me to use the “right stuff” close to 4K now and no leaks, just make sure it’s very well cleaned, I used crc chlorinated brake clean and gave it multiple cleaning, I never waited to torque down the bolts maybe I got lucky but it hasn’t leaked yet.
Any 5/8” oil resistant hose will do the job, heater hose will work but not for long, after some time the oil will start to eat away close to oil tank. Heat tape isn’t necessary.
Confused
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I would suggest, that if possible, let tank sit overnight before installing back on sled and filling with oil so sealant can cure both inside and out before being submerged in oil.
I agree and am planning on doing that even though the Right Stuff says you don't need to. I should have it apart, cleaned up, and resealed by the end of the day. My dealer isn't open today so I won't be able to fill it until tomorrow.
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I have resealed tanks with Travis's BOP gasket. I've also used Right Stuff. When I do Right Stuff, I meticulously clean the surfaces using brake clean and a scotch brite pad to "rough" the surface up lightly. After applying Right Stuff and screwing the tank down snuggly, I turn a space heater on in our shop bathroom set for 80 degrees and let it set up for 12 hours before putting on the sled.
Confused
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I have resealed tanks with Travis's BOP gasket. I've also used Right Stuff. When I do Right Stuff, I meticulously clean the surfaces using brake clean and a scotch brite pad to "rough" the surface up lightly. After applying Right Stuff and screwing the tank down snuggly, I turn a space heater on in our shop bathroom set for 80 degrees and let it set up for 12 hours before putting on the sled.
Thanks, any reason I couldn't do this with the chaincase cover still on? I had it off when I put the gasket in but was hoping to avoid a few steps and a chaincase refill.
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You can do it with chaincase cover still on, I have done several as well and just turned the shop heat up slightly over night
Here is from the Permatex website.....
The product cures on exposure to moisture in the air and dries tack free in two hours, with full cure in 24 hours. Cure times will vary with temperature, humidity and gap. Parts assembled with PERMATEX® The Right Stuff® are instantly sealed and can be immediately placed into service.
Turboflash
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As long as you can get it perfectly clean! NO OIL residue on either side. I use acetone.Thanks, any reason I couldn't do this with the chaincase cover still on? I had it off when I put the gasket in but was hoping to avoid a few steps and a chaincase refill.
SumpBuster
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Wow...I had the sled on the stand 4 days, as I had a week of the FauchiFlu, so really took my time...its hard to imagine the seal blowing out of that groove, thats why Travis said only 6lbs torque so the groove doesnt tear the gasket. I also trimmed it in a few places so it fit perfect, no bulges, etc.I'll be digging into it today but here is a pic of the seal pushed out. I'll get better pics once I get the muffler off.
View attachment 166097
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Confused
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'24 MXZ 850 Turbo R Comp
'23 MXZ Blizzard 850 ETEC
'24 MXZ Neo+ 600
'88 SnoScoot
I think I found my smoking gun as to what happened and I'll take the blame. I do believe the ROV was frozen. I believe the BOP gasket was installed correctly. What I found is, the oil tank bypass hose was too long and I chose to loop it vs trim it. because of this, water was trapped in the loop and froze also, thus, not allowing the pressure to be relieved. In the pic below is the bottom of the loop and the fluid in there is mostly water.
02ViperMody44
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That'll do it!!!
Confused
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Here she is. Gasket didn't tear but I'm hesitant to reuse it. Any thoughts? It did spray oil everywhere. Should I pull the foam out of the lower panel? It's soaked.
02ViperMody44
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I would it's a fire hazard once oil soaked
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