Blown BOP Oil Tank Seal

[Fords4life]

I always thought the triangle shape is what made them better and hold. Regular bolts don't hold as well. I'd never run a die down them for this reason.

I've tried stainless bolts and header bolts, none want to hold like the stock ones, so you TQ them harder and then they stretch.

The way the bolts threaded in and out i thought would eventialy mess turbo housing up, i build mufflers for myself and buddies, so im changing out once in awhile try'n diffrent ones, rather keep bolt holes good instead of resorting to heliciols down the road.

 

[Confused]

Interesting, I understand the issue with studs and removing the muffler. I thought most were getting rid of the stock bolts. I'll see if I still have them on the bench. Otherwise I'll put my replacements in for this weekend and order new. I did chase the threads in the turbo and put copper antisieze on the bolts.

 

[snowcaine]

I stuck with the t screws and remove the muffler when I get bored. They stay tight. Use copper antisieze or the silver stuff. Doesnt seem to matter which one. Only takes a few minutes to remove it.

Copper is good to 1,800 F. Nickel good to 2,400 F. I've been using nickel on all exhaust-related fasteners. No issues.

 

[REDLINE 1]

I did the stainless nordlock bolts Tomcat sells. They have a smaller hex head with a flange so there easy to get in and out. Haven't came loose yet been taking them off once a year when I service the sled. I chase the threads in the turbo housing each time and use the nickel anti seize

Arctic cat/Yamaha 998 locking exhaust fasteners

shop.tommcatperformance.com

 

[Turboflash]

• Temperature Range: 0°F (-18°C) to 2600°F (1427°C)

 

[74Nitro]

Why switch to stainless bolts when the stock bolts already are?
Aside from having a hex head bolt in the one place.

 

[North Iowa winder]

I was under the impression that most people hated the T 50 bolts and replaced them with hex because of inaccessibility to two of them because of bend in exhaust. I run stainless hex with lock washer and replace every year, $20 at local hardware store. Thread chaser and permatex nickel antiseize.

 

[KnappAttack]

Depends on the muffler being used. I'm using the VF 3" muffler and can use the stock ones in all but the one that doesn't get used at all.

They stay tight, dont stretch and I can get them out fine. Something I can't say about any of the other bolts I've tried. If you can use the stock bolts and get on them, they are the best I have ever used.

 

[Confused]

She's back together. Doesn't seem to be any leaks but I think this thing is going to leak here an there for a while. There was oil everywhere. One concern I have is the oil made it into the insulation of the muffler. A little smoky even idling in the garage. I'll have to keep an eye on it for the first few miles. Hoping she doesn't burn down. I did remove the foam under the muffler and will replace it this spring.

 

[Confused]

I did use the copper antisieze mostly because that's what I had on hand. Container says good to 2000F. I'll see if I can find some nickel with a higher rating when I take it apart next time.

 

[Motorhead]

I didn’t realize that the stock muffler bolts were stainless steel because of the color of them. Surely not a SS looking metal.

On my first couple times of removing the muffler for maintenance, those stock bolts did not want to come out, or go back in without a lot of force. So I also cleaned the threads and had to buy a couple of new bolts because of how they got damaged coming out initially. Funny thing is, I purposely stayed with stock while some were replacing them with SS hex bolts. I know how hard SS is, and did not want to take a chance of snapping one in the turbo body, and having to drill them out, so I stayed with stock, and now I find out they are SS....

After cleaning threads and using the Nickel anti seize, the mufflers have been off at least twice per season without a problem. Never found any loose and I do not over tighten them for sure!
Wow, SS huh, here comes the magnet test!

 

[74Nitro]

I didn’t realize that the stock muffler bolts were stainless steel because of the color of them. Surely not a SS looking metal.

On my first couple times of removing the muffler for maintenance, those stock bolts did not want to come out, or go back in without a lot of force. So I also cleaned the threads and had to buy a couple of new bolts because of how they got damaged coming out initially. Funny thing is, I purposely stayed with stock while some were replacing them with SS hex bolts. I know how hard SS is, and did not want to take a chance of snapping one in the turbo body, and having to drill them out, so I stayed with stock, and now I find out they are SS....

After cleaning threads and using the Nickel anti seize, the mufflers have been off at least twice per season without a problem. Never found any loose and I do not over tighten them for sure!
Wow, SS huh, here comes the magnet test!

I first thought the same until I dropped one of them in the engine bay.
Went to pick it up with a magnet and no dice!

 

[Motorhead]

I first thought the same until I dropped one of them in the engine bay.
Went to pick it up with a magnet and no dice!

Must be a good grade SS because some cheaper grade SS do have some stick with a magnet!

I remember asking the parts guy at dealership back in 2018, if I should just buy SS hex heads like some were doing, and he informed me that these had a special coating on them, so he would not suggest anything but the stock torx heads.

Probably not just coated though!

 

[SumpBuster]

Maybe Im just cheap..lol..but slit the socket to get the T50 out and use a long 8mm wrench for the ones you can get at, and slip it back into the socket for the rest. Works every time.
Did not slice through..just enough to pull out the t5, so torque is no problem. Yeah..coulda bought a separate T 50...didnt know that when I first needed to take the muffler off so used what I had.

 

[Turboflash]

I did use the copper antisieze mostly because that's what I had on hand. Container says good to 2000F. I'll see if I can find some nickel with a higher rating when I take it apart next time.

Thred Gard nickel shows good to 2600F.

https://cdn.accentuate.io/5440055771296/1595963297368/TDS-thred-gard-nickel.pdf?v=0