brake caliper hittin rotor

[KnappAttack]

Is the shaft or drive sprockets bent? Does it vibrate?

When you put the wedge in did you normalize the bearing so it didn't make the caliper wobble? People put the wedge in and just tighten it down, because there is clearance between the bearing and shaft when you just tighten the wedge down it cocks the bearing on the shaft and wobbles the chassis and caliper/housing. This could cause this issue.

When you tighten the wedge, Its the last thing to get done, the suspension must be in the sled, the track must turn and you tighten the wedge down little by little while turning the shaft round and round multiple times, as the shaft grows on three points of contact, it must nomilize as it expands, so as you turn and turn the shaft and track, tighten the bolt till its torqued to the spec toy want. Tightening too much and too fast and the bearing gets crooked on the shaft and it will wobble.

I have been using a dial indicator on the outside of the caliper to determine that it runs true as I'm torquing it down as well. I've been doing 60-65 lbs on a wedge thats anti-seized on shafts that are new or slightly used. Haven't had any that wobble or trouble doing this.

 

[Kuzzy]

Is the shaft or drive sprockets bent? Does it vibrate?

When you put the wedge in did you normalize the bearing so it didn't make the caliper wobble? People put the wedge in and just tighten it down, because there is clearance between the bearing and shaft when you just tighten the wedge down it cocks the bearing on the shaft and wobbles the chassis and caliper/housing. This could cause this issue.

When you tighten the wedge, Its the last thing to get done, the suspension must be in the sled, the track must turn and you tighten the wedge down little by little while turning the shaft round and round multiple times, as the shaft grows on three points of contact, it must nomilize as it expands, so as you turn and turn the shaft and track, tighten the bolt till its torqued to the spec toy want. Tightening too much and too fast and the bearing gets crooked on the shaft and it will wobble.

I have been using a dial indicator on the outside of the caliper to determine that it runs true as I'm torquing it down as well. I've been doing 60-65 lbs on a wedge thats anti-seized on shafts that are new or slightly used. Haven't had any that wobble or trouble doing this.

Dang, of course! Why didn't I think of using a dial! I used it all over my chain case when I was checking for possible bent shafts anyways lol.

 

[HABS 1]

Is the shaft or drive sprockets bent? Does it vibrate?

When you put the wedge in did you normalize the bearing so it didn't make the caliper wobble? People put the wedge in and just tighten it down, because there is clearance between the bearing and shaft when you just tighten the wedge down it cocks the bearing on the shaft and wobbles the chassis and caliper/housing. This could cause this issue.

When you tighten the wedge, Its the last thing to get done, the suspension must be in the sled, the track must turn and you tighten the wedge down little by little while turning the shaft round and round multiple times, as the shaft grows on three points of contact, it must nomilize as it expands, so as you turn and turn the shaft and track, tighten the bolt till its torqued to the spec toy want. Tightening too much and too fast and the bearing gets crooked on the shaft and it will wobble.

I have been using a dial indicator on the outside of the caliper to determine that it runs true as I'm torquing it down as well. I've been doing 60-65 lbs on a wedge thats anti-seized on shafts that are new or slightly used. Haven't had any that wobble or trouble doing this.

no i did not tighten it like that i put it in and torque to 60 ft lbs, i now have it out totally, ill see if this happens again if everything stays good i will reinstall the wedge following your procedure, love the dial indicator, i never thought of tgat, ill have blow the dust off it get it out lol , thanks

 

[cannondale27]

There has to be a lot of force to push that clip out if installed right and groove is good. The BOP wedge must have exposed the issue. Removing the wedge is not going to fix the issue it will just allow it to be masked by allowing the shaft to spin and move in bearing. In Cats/Yamahas eyes it’s acceptable but obviously since you and all the rest of us who bought the wedges highly disagree. This one is going to drive me nuts till issue is known.

 

[cannondale27]

Is your upper suspension shaft stock? Does it have BOP tube reinforcement? If so did you forget the washers that go on inside of tunnel? If stock is the shaft bent? Either would force the tunnel together and could cause this.

 

[Kuzzy]

Is your upper suspension shaft stock? Does it have BOP tube reinforcement? If so did you forget the washers that go on inside of tunnel? If stock is the shaft bent? Either would force the tunnel together and could cause this.

I was sort of wondering if the tunnel was bent or twisted. On my xtx, those washers inside the tunnel certainly did not seem like they belonged there. However they definately do belong there.

 

[HABS 1]

took it out now 19 miles , hard miles ,without shaft saver in , clip is in tact bearing seated properly, thinkin im going to reinstall with indicator and small torque incrments,as stated above

 

[HABS 1]

Is your upper suspension shaft stock? Does it have BOP tube reinforcement? If so did you forget the washers that go on inside of tunnel? If stock is the shaft bent? Either would force the tunnel together and could cause this.

upper rear suspension shaft is stock, i have bop front tunnel savers installed

 

[HABS 1]

can se here shaft saver out and clearence between rotor n caliper housing correct, im going to conclude the installation of tge saver was incorrect and caused this mess, im gonna keep it out rest of season see if things stay put

 

[Kuzzy]

upper rear suspension shaft is stock, i have bop front tunnel savers installed

The front tunnel savers are the same thickness as the washer? The tunnel savers are probably the only thing I didn't look at adding to my chassis lol. My xtx has some pretty wicked ski lifting torque in stock form. If there is a chance for flexx because the tunnel is not the proper width, than maybe that is the issue.

 

[KnappAttack]

can se here shaft saver out and clearence between rotor n caliper housing correct, im going to conclude the installation of tge saver was incorrect and caused this mess, im gonna keep it out rest of season see if things stay put

Put it in an do like I said when tightening. If you dont, it will wear the shaft over time. I'm sure it blew out before because you didn't nomilize it properly. Also, did you check to see how far the wedge needed to go in to contact the bearing?

If its one of the original wedges, It needs to go in like the picture Jon posted earlier.
If its the newer version, the flats can all hang out of the shaft because they were made to proper length.

You want the expansion to happen right directly under the bearing so this is crucial to know what wedge it is and where is and that it lays directly under the bearing when it expands. I wished BOP would have replaced all the earlier versions so they were all correct right from the start.

 

[HABS 1]

The front tunnel savers are the same thickness as the washer? The tunnel savers are probably the only thing I didn't look at adding to my chassis lol. My xtx has some pretty wicked ski lifting torque in stock form. If there is a chance for flexx because the tunnel is not the proper width, than maybe that is the issue

The front tunnel savers are the same thickness as the washer? The tunnel savers are probably the only thing I didn't look at adding to my chassis lol. My xtx has some pretty wicked ski lifting torque in stock form. If there is a chance for flexx because the tunnel is not the proper width, than maybe that is the issue.

i see what ur sayin but these go on outside should not effect anything

 

[HABS 1]

Put it in an do like I said when tightening. If you dont, it will wear the shaft over time. I'm sure it blew out before because you didn't nomilize it properly. Also, did you check to see how far the wedge needed to go in to contact the bearing?

If its one of the original wedges, It needs to go in like the picture Jon posted earlier.
If its the newer version, the flats can all hang out of the shaft because they were made to proper length.

You want the expansion to happen right directly under the bearing so this is crucial to know what wedge it is and where is and that it lays directly under the bearing when it expands. I wished BOP would have replaced all the earlier versions so they were all correct right from the start.

i believe this is how i need to install it, i thoght i had the newer saver, i left it out purposely so i could hold it with a wrench , thinkin i would be ok , its likly better to tap it in new style or old i guess, but my rotor allways had float so i figured good to go

 

[HABS 1]

Put it in an do like I said when tightening. If you dont, it will wear the shaft over time. I'm sure it blew out before because you didn't nomilize it properly. Also, did you check to see how far the wedge needed to go in to contact the bearing?

If its one of the original wedges, It needs to go in like the picture Jon posted earlier.
If its the newer version, the flats can all hang out of the shaft because they were made to proper length.

You want the expansion to happen right directly under the bearing so this is crucial to know what wedge it is and where is and that it lays directly under the bearing when it expands. I wished BOP would have replaced all the earlier versions so they were all correct right from the start.

this is the lenght of the saver , new or old style?

 

[KnappAttack]

this is the lenght of the saver , new or old style?

That is the newer version. Let the whole flat hang out of the shaft. Inside of flats should be flush with outside of shaft exactly.

Now here is something I just thought of. IF the shaft is worn to a taper to the outside, which I've seen them do when they start to wear, putting the saver in could possibly work the bearing outward and out of the housing like it did. Did yo look at the shaft and check for wear? I have a shaft here with 2300 miles on it that is worn more to the outside of it than the inside is.