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brake caliper hittin rotor

That is the newer version. Let the whole flat hang out of the shaft. Inside of flats should be flush with outside of shaft exactly.

Now here is something I just thought of. IF the shaft is worn to a taper to the outside, which I've seen them do when they start to wear, putting the saver in could possibly work the bearing outward and out of the housing like it did. Did yo look at the shaft and check for wear? I have a shaft here with 2300 miles on it that is worn more to the outside of it than the inside is.
no i didn't look at the shaft for wear , it has 400 kms on the machine, i thoght it was the newer saver , sonwhen intalled i left flats out like u say, if was shorter one i can see tappin it in,i think im gonna run it lets say another 60-100 miles and if everything is good , i will reinstall saver as u stated and use a indicator, and see what happens
 

That is the newer version. Let the whole flat hang out of the shaft. Inside of flats should be flush with outside of shaft exactly.

Now here is something I just thought of. IF the shaft is worn to a taper to the outside, which I've seen them do when they start to wear, putting the saver in could possibly work the bearing outward and out of the housing like it did. Did yo look at the shaft and check for wear? I have a shaft here with 2300 miles on it that is worn more to the outside of it than the inside is.
Right. His upper suspension shaft could also be bent. Stock it’s very common.
 
Do you still have warranty on machine?
I would take it in if it happens again.
 
just had time get back to sled , so i rode those ladt 19 miles with saver out , no problems, thoght today ill put back in while turning shaft and tighned to 60 ft lbs doin so in 10 lb increments, put a indicator on it to see if ran true all looked good, started sled spun track mabe 3 seconds and it poped bearing clip❤️
 

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u can see clip out
 

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Maybe this was disclosed in an earlier post, but does the rotor still have some wiggle/free play with the saver installed?
 
Maybe this was disclosed in an earlier post, but does the rotor still have some wiggle/free play with the saver installed?
hey travis , yes it's always had a bit of float or wiggle not much but about the same amount with or without saver in
 
just had time get back to sled , so i rode those ladt 19 miles with saver out , no problems, thoght today ill put back in while turning shaft and tighned to 60 ft lbs doin so in 10 lb increments, put a indicator on it to see if ran true all looked good, started sled spun track mabe 3 seconds and it poped bearing clip❤️

So IMO the wedge is tightening down the bearing in a cocked position and rather than wobbling the chassis, its literally wobbling the bearing out of the housing.

How many revolutions are you turning the shaft prior to tightening things down? I turn the shaft a bunch to nomilize it as it gets tightened down in small increments.

I've never seen anything happen like this before. Before it pops the clip it should wobble the whole housing & chassis. Im guessing the machine tolerance in the housing is off and allowing the bearing to move right out of it too easily ling with poping the clip out of position.

Take it out and leave it out. You'll just have to replace the shaft when the time comes, or weld it and use that pined bearing mod I see being done.
 
So IMO the wedge is tightening down the bearing in a cocked position and rather than wobbling the chassis, its literally wobbling the bearing out of the housing.

How many revolutions are you turning the shaft prior to tightening things down? I turn the shaft a bunch to nomilize it as it gets tightened down in small increments.

I've never seen anything happen like this before. Before it pops the clip it should wobble the whole housing & chassis. Im guessing the machine tolerance in the housing is off and allowing the bearing to move right out of it too easily ling with poping the clip out of position.

Take it out and leave it out. You'll just have to replace the shaft when the time comes, or weld it and use that pined bearing mod I see being done.
Happy to help,almost two full seasons since refurbished ,less than the cost of a new shaft
 

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So IMO the wedge is tightening down the bearing in a cocked position and rather than wobbling the chassis, its literally wobbling the bearing out of the housing.

How many revolutions are you turning the shaft prior to tightening things down? I turn the shaft a bunch to nomilize it as it gets tightened down in small increments.

I've never seen anything happen like this before. Before it pops the clip it should wobble the whole housing & chassis. Im guessing the machine tolerance in the housing is off and allowing the bearing to move right out of it too easily ling with poping the clip out of position.

Take it out and leave it out. You'll just have to replace the shaft when the time comes, or weld it and use that pined bearing mod I see being done.
i turned it by hand mabe 1-2 complete track revolutions,then tighned another 10 ft lbs, ya im gonna leave it out forsure, bin to much messin around, bummer tho the wedge looks like a good piece, i dont put a huge amount of miles on so ill just have deal with the wear then replace shaft when time comes, that pin deal is definitely better but wouldn't that cause the same effect?
 
My 2021 went 6k without issue then I noticed a rusty dust developing by the brake rotor. Took it apart and the bearing had spun with evidence of a groove on the brake rotor collar . The shaft looked decent so I measured and found .006 of clearance. Talked to the Dealer and he ordered a new shaft, brake rotor and bearing etc. I didn’t want to stop riding so I put it back together and used never seize on the bearing fit and rotor collar. Of course I am still waiting for parts so I kept riding and now have 2k on the worn parts. Took it apart to check and no change in the clearance or evidence of further wear on the shaft or brake rotor. I will finish the season and report back as I plan to ride at least another 2k.
 
is there any way to do this pin deal on the sled?
From a safety standpoint, I would say no .lots of combustibles close by.I was doing a track upgrade anyway.It was also the perfect time to do suspension upgrades (from B.O.P.) and chain case upgrades (BOP).The shaft was spray welded,to close up the tolerance.Then pin welded in place.All drive line bearings were upgraded.If you were to send the dealer your used shaft,(Essex,Jt. Vt) with shipping approximately $200.With a replacement re - oped bearing.Franks motorcycle,Essex Juntion Vt.
 
From a safety standpoint, I would say no .lots of combustibles close by.I was doing a track upgrade anyway.It was also the perfect time to do suspension upgrades (from B.O.P.) and chain case upgrades (BOP).The shaft was spray welded,to close up the tolerance.Then pin welded in place.All drive line bearings were upgraded.If you were to send the dealer your used shaft,(Essex,Jt. Vt) with shipping approximately $200.With a replacement re - oped bearing.Franks motorcycle,Essex Juntion
My 2021 went 6k without issue then I noticed a rusty dust developing by the brake rotor. Took it apart and the bearing had spun with evidence of a groove on the brake rotor collar . The shaft looked decent so I measured and found .006 of clearance. Talked to the Dealer and he ordered a new shaft, brake rotor and bearing etc. I didn’t want to stop riding so I put it back together and used never seize on the bearing fit and rotor collar. Of course I am still waiting for parts so I kept riding and now have 2k on the worn parts. Took it apart to check and no change in the clearance or evidence of further wear on the shaft or brake rotor. I will finish the season and report back as I plan to ride at least another 2k.
ya im liky gonna just run it , i dont put huge miles on, was lookin a stock shaft from yamaha wo drivers look cheap enuff just to get a new one , pin it, then stick on shelf and ready to go, even with drivers it wasnt that much more,just wait n see how it goes i guess lol
 


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