I am probably in the $5000 range so far. At the time when I bought this last year the cheapest I found on used was $7800can. So I figured I could spend about $7000 total before it started to cost money. I have done a lot of things to this machine that cost extra money and weren't necessary but again as I said, I figured I could drop $7000can and it would still be a good deal. Is that smart money, no, but hey I get what I want or at least what I think I wanted in the end. I still want to get a few other things and that should bring me near my $7000 price point +/-. And maybe, just maybe if the Tax man is good to me this year, there will be a call to Hurricane for a turbo. And then that will break the bank and blow the budget all to hell, but deep inside me and I don't like admitting this one, but I am suffering from TURBO envy.
Nice!
Katannilik1
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Oil tank, oil lines and all coolant lines in place- I am so glad that I ordered a bunch of the rubber hose sections and new hose clamps for these. The ones that were on this are pretty much baked and really hard from the heat of the exhaust
Exhaust is in place- I don't have the blanket that covers it so I think I am going to have to fashion something because the plastic is showing where the heat of the muffler was. I have a bunch of real heavy fiberglass cloth and I am thinking of cutting it to size and then sewing the ends and then covering it with aluminum foil tape.
Intake mod done - I took the frog skin that covers the opening right off to make it easier to cut the cross section pieces out and then used some silicone to glue the frog skin back in place
So what I have left is, finalize the wiring, fill with oil and coolant and hit the key
Maybe someone can help with this one I looked into tethers and I can purchase normally open or normally closed. I understand the difference between the two, but is that with the tether in place or with the tether out of the switch???
Looking at the wiring diagram in the SR Viper FAQ section that grizztracks passed out (Thanks for that) and Thanks to Cannondale27 for making it a sticky, anyways I need a normally open switch with the tether in place. ^ see above ^
Exhaust is in place- I don't have the blanket that covers it so I think I am going to have to fashion something because the plastic is showing where the heat of the muffler was. I have a bunch of real heavy fiberglass cloth and I am thinking of cutting it to size and then sewing the ends and then covering it with aluminum foil tape.
Intake mod done - I took the frog skin that covers the opening right off to make it easier to cut the cross section pieces out and then used some silicone to glue the frog skin back in place
So what I have left is, finalize the wiring, fill with oil and coolant and hit the key
Maybe someone can help with this one I looked into tethers and I can purchase normally open or normally closed. I understand the difference between the two, but is that with the tether in place or with the tether out of the switch???
Looking at the wiring diagram in the SR Viper FAQ section that grizztracks passed out (Thanks for that) and Thanks to Cannondale27 for making it a sticky, anyways I need a normally open switch with the tether in place. ^ see above ^
Katannilik1
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Well I am having a VICTORY beer right now. I got a bunch of work done tonight, hit the key and the motor cranks. There is still no oil or coolant or fuel in the machine so it was a no fire but so far I am stoked......
Maybe tomorrow she runs
Maybe tomorrow she runs
Katannilik1
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IT"S ALIVE, IT'S ALIVE. Actually it was running late Sunday night but this is the first chance I had to post it. So far the only problem is my gauge is not coming on once the engine is running, so I still have no clue how many k's are on this sled. Pretty minor problem so far.
Last edited:
le700
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Congratulations. Good thing that you keep this thread going.
Katannilik1
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It's on the snow and it hauls BUTT. I have never ridden this thing until now, I have to say it is so comfortable to ride it feels like I have owned and ridden this thing since new. I am 6'4" tall and it is not easy to find a machine that fits me, I normally have to adjust my riding position and style to fit the machine but not on this, it fits me like a glove. I have already been barn storming and ditch banging to give a work out and "I LIKE IT"
Katannilik1
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So I had to cheat a little to get the gauge to come on, for some reason I am not getting power on the RED/BLU (regulated DC power) wire at the console plug, this is the wire that feeds the gauge power once the engine is running. Tracing this wire back on the schematic this also powers the tail light, reverse, speed sensor, fuel injector???(if so why is it running) and a few other things. For some reason, that I eventually will need to figure out, it keeps blowing the fuse. So somewhere the power is going straight to ground and popping the fuse, oh well to this point in time not running this fuse hasn't effected anything yet. I just had no gauge.
Any ways what I done is I cut the RED/BLU wire and then pulled power off of the key switch (can't remember wire color, RED/GRN possibly) which is right in the same loom as the gauges REG power wire. What this has done is powered the gauge as soon as I turn the key into the run position, I think this is a way better because I hate having to start a motor just to see how much fuel is in a sled. My VK Professional is the same way and it is a pain in the butt.
Up to this point all seems good but I noticed a couple of things as soon as I lit the gauge up, first off the machine only has 5200 km on it, secondly I am getting a PO509 trouble code-air control system circuit high, well whatever that means?? Thirdly my altimeter is reading 6500 feet, um the sled is parked at maybe 10' above sea level here it bounces around a little but is inaccurate?? Maybe this all has something to do with no power on that RED/BLU regulated wire??
Oh well, I have some things to figure out, actually I think they are quite minuscule in comparison to the problems that I started with. But to this point it goes like a bat out of hell (love being able to pick the skis up when you want to) and also I would put a pic up here with me on the machine but the only problem with that is, I don't think there is enough pixels on the screen to support the size of my smile
Any ways what I done is I cut the RED/BLU wire and then pulled power off of the key switch (can't remember wire color, RED/GRN possibly) which is right in the same loom as the gauges REG power wire. What this has done is powered the gauge as soon as I turn the key into the run position, I think this is a way better because I hate having to start a motor just to see how much fuel is in a sled. My VK Professional is the same way and it is a pain in the butt.
Up to this point all seems good but I noticed a couple of things as soon as I lit the gauge up, first off the machine only has 5200 km on it, secondly I am getting a PO509 trouble code-air control system circuit high, well whatever that means?? Thirdly my altimeter is reading 6500 feet, um the sled is parked at maybe 10' above sea level here it bounces around a little but is inaccurate?? Maybe this all has something to do with no power on that RED/BLU regulated wire??
Oh well, I have some things to figure out, actually I think they are quite minuscule in comparison to the problems that I started with. But to this point it goes like a bat out of hell (love being able to pick the skis up when you want to) and also I would put a pic up here with me on the machine but the only problem with that is, I don't think there is enough pixels on the screen to support the size of my smile
sxr70001
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SR Viper RTX SE
that fuse powers the gauge pod and tail light circuit but the sled will run without it as you have found. I blew that fuse once when the 12 v accessory plug shorted out inside because a plug I had in there for my gps fell apart. so you might want to check that accessory plug or the wires that go to it. Good job on getting it back together and running.
Katannilik1
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I had to do an addition, it gets dark here at 2:30 in the afternoon and I am just not ready to park this thing at that time due to no lights. So these were the lightest LED lights that I had.
They work pretty good but are not the strongest of lights that's for sure
They work pretty good but are not the strongest of lights that's for sure
Katannilik1
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not the brightest but they will do until the sun returns
Yamatuner
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How does your belt drive in place of chain drive work? Easy adjustments, tensioning, etc..? I'm considering the same mod.
kinger
VIP Member
So I had to cheat a little to get the gauge to come on, for some reason I am not getting power on the RED/BLU (regulated DC power) wire at the console plug, this is the wire that feeds the gauge power once the engine is running. Tracing this wire back on the schematic this also powers the tail light, reverse, speed sensor, fuel injector???(if so why is it running) and a few other things. For some reason, that I eventually will need to figure out, it keeps blowing the fuse. So somewhere the power is going straight to ground and popping the fuse, oh well to this point in time not running this fuse hasn't effected anything yet. I just had no gauge.
Any ways what I done is I cut the RED/BLU wire and then pulled power off of the key switch (can't remember wire color, RED/GRN possibly) which is right in the same loom as the gauges REG power wire. What this has done is powered the gauge as soon as I turn the key into the run position, I think this is a way better because I hate having to start a motor just to see how much fuel is in a sled. My VK Professional is the same way and it is a pain in the butt.
Up to this point all seems good but I noticed a couple of things as soon as I lit the gauge up, first off the machine only has 5200 km on it, secondly I am getting a PO509 trouble code-air control system circuit high, well whatever that means?? Thirdly my altimeter is reading 6500 feet, um the sled is parked at maybe 10' above sea level here it bounces around a little but is inaccurate?? Maybe this all has something to do with no power on that RED/BLU regulated wire??
Oh well, I have some things to figure out, actually I think they are quite minuscule in comparison to the problems that I started with. But to this point it goes like a bat out of hell (love being able to pick the skis up when you want to) and also I would put a pic up here with me on the machine but the only problem with that is, I don't think there is enough pixels on the screen to support the size of my smile
Sounds like something is shorting out and/or your IAC sensor is not working correctly I would try to trace the harness looking for any added/spliced/rubbed wires. As for the altimeter did you calibrate it with the mode function?
Katannilik1
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The belt drive is awesome, I have been keeping an eye on belt tension but so far there has been zero stretch. One issue that comes up is if I want to get the exhaust off I have to remove the belt tensioning bolt completely so that the bottom mount of the exhaust can pivot off it's mount. Not a big deal but just another step that needs to be taken to get the exhaust off. The first time trying to get the exhaust on had me scratching my head because on the tensioning bolt there is a black plastic cap that screws on the end of the bolt to stop it from marring the aluminum idler wheel block, this little cap will not allow the bolt to back out of the belt cover case all the way giving the needed clearance to get the exhaust off. So what I did is;
Step 1 - take belt drive case off
Step 2 - remove the black cap on tensioning bolt
Step 3 - threw it over my shoulder
I just deleted it and if it mars the finish, so be it. It is in an area that no one will ever see. Alternatively shortening the bolt might work as well, they are quite long. So far no complaints I give it 2 thumbs up.
Katannilik1
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So I figured it has been long enough now that I can give an update and a ride report. First I will start with the bad(not really bad just what it is)
The Bad
1 - Froze the A/O separator and puked oil on ground. I am looking into ways of deleting this now. Of course it had to happened when I was out of town doing SAR training, my fiance was distraught when I came back to town. She figured she blew the machine up, and of course me being the dick that I am I had to stroked it for a bit, put the screws to her and play the "OH MY GOD" "WHAT DID YOU DO" card. I got a slap when I told her I was expecting it to happen and it was not a big deal, I just didn't know when it was going to happen. Ha good times. Oil Press sensor saved the motor.
2 - I am not completely sold on the elimination of the sway bar. I think because of the FOX air shocks low initial spring rate there is quite a bit of outward dive in the corners. If I remember correctly I am at 250PSI on the Hygears and 100PSI on the main chambers, and it still dives a lot from side to side. I am going to keep going up in pressure until the ride is too harsh, and then make my final decision.
3 - The Factory rear suspension isn't really happy hitting big bumps and taking hard landings, granted the shocks have not been replaced yet. The rear, bottoms out a fair bit. I hit so hard once that I had to get off after it and check to make sure the front cross shaft wasn't sheered off again.
4 - I believe with taking so much rotating mass off of this sled it is now massively under clutched, damn near any time I get on the throttle hard, it instantly hits the rev limiter. Time for a clutch kit.
The Good
1 - It's a Yamaha does anything else really need to be said!!!
2 - WICKED fast acceleration, my buddies that ride the 800 doo's they even call it a beast.
3 - the odd looking stealth ski's work amazingly well in every condition. and with them being 7" wide give good flotation for our conditions.
4 - I cant believe how well the Composit track hooks up, to this point every machine I have been riding has had a Ripsaw on them, 137"doo 600 HOE tec,
144" Venture lite, 156" VK Pro and they don't stand a chance comparison wise. In just about any riding condition other then glare ice the track bites and drives and you can loft the ski's. It's just friggin fun to ride. Studs will make it that much better.
5 - MBRP trail can has a good sound but is not overly loud, like an obnoxious fart pipe. I had concerns about this when I was reinstalling it.
So there are still a number of things I need to figure out and get accomplished, slowly but surely they will get done. And as always I am bipolar about weight I need to get a scale and weight this so I know where I am at, then I can go from there. But up to this point I am stoked.
The Bad
1 - Froze the A/O separator and puked oil on ground. I am looking into ways of deleting this now. Of course it had to happened when I was out of town doing SAR training, my fiance was distraught when I came back to town. She figured she blew the machine up, and of course me being the dick that I am I had to stroked it for a bit, put the screws to her and play the "OH MY GOD" "WHAT DID YOU DO" card. I got a slap when I told her I was expecting it to happen and it was not a big deal, I just didn't know when it was going to happen. Ha good times. Oil Press sensor saved the motor.
2 - I am not completely sold on the elimination of the sway bar. I think because of the FOX air shocks low initial spring rate there is quite a bit of outward dive in the corners. If I remember correctly I am at 250PSI on the Hygears and 100PSI on the main chambers, and it still dives a lot from side to side. I am going to keep going up in pressure until the ride is too harsh, and then make my final decision.
3 - The Factory rear suspension isn't really happy hitting big bumps and taking hard landings, granted the shocks have not been replaced yet. The rear, bottoms out a fair bit. I hit so hard once that I had to get off after it and check to make sure the front cross shaft wasn't sheered off again.
4 - I believe with taking so much rotating mass off of this sled it is now massively under clutched, damn near any time I get on the throttle hard, it instantly hits the rev limiter. Time for a clutch kit.
The Good
1 - It's a Yamaha does anything else really need to be said!!!
2 - WICKED fast acceleration, my buddies that ride the 800 doo's they even call it a beast.
3 - the odd looking stealth ski's work amazingly well in every condition. and with them being 7" wide give good flotation for our conditions.
4 - I cant believe how well the Composit track hooks up, to this point every machine I have been riding has had a Ripsaw on them, 137"doo 600 HOE tec,
144" Venture lite, 156" VK Pro and they don't stand a chance comparison wise. In just about any riding condition other then glare ice the track bites and drives and you can loft the ski's. It's just friggin fun to ride. Studs will make it that much better.
5 - MBRP trail can has a good sound but is not overly loud, like an obnoxious fart pipe. I had concerns about this when I was reinstalling it.
So there are still a number of things I need to figure out and get accomplished, slowly but surely they will get done. And as always I am bipolar about weight I need to get a scale and weight this so I know where I am at, then I can go from there. But up to this point I am stoked.
Katannilik1
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I have not checked into the short yet, to this point it hasn't been a hindrance, might be in the future though. I will rectify it one day, hopefully that's not procrastination that bites me in the A$$.
The fuel sending unit was hung up on the fuel pump intake screen. So it was stuck in one position, works now.
IAC trouble code po509, lets just call me a bone head. I missed plugging the IAC in when everything went back together, no more codes being thrown.
Thanks for the info on calibrating the altimeter I will check into this.
