Sure can see something! Will look when I get home.
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Sled is home, worked on it till midnight last night....I am one tired MF....but it is done.
Now, the reason mine was tore apart was because I had a very bad vibration at 40mph, bad enough to blurr my vision on the trail. Also noticed that my reverse was slamming hard and it's never done that before. Kind of like a firecracker going off under the hood. Took apart and saw the bearing on top did not look good. No shavings, but my oil was very dark and black powdery looking. Had a hard time removing my reverse gear as I knew something was bent or wrong and seemed to be binding. The reverse gear is splined to the shaft and transfers power from your secondary shaft to the top drive gear through little cogs (about 30 or so). This is why when you go from reverse to drive, you need to make sure the gear is fully inserted into the reverse gear. What I can best put together is when I heard this "firecracker" noise I took it slow, went from forward to reverse a couple times to make sure before I grabbed a handfull of throttle. But I am thinking, 1 of the last times I went into reverse, the gear must have got cocked and when I went full throttle, It bent the secondary shaft and was binding on the reverse gear. From hearing about other chaincases exploding, I believe I had the same condition, but it never got to the point of breaking the case and/or other components. With this binding, I believe this is why the cases are exploding....IMO
Pictured is the shaft, each end. It is bent but only shows up barely in the pics. The splines are wore down so much that the gear was able to get cocked sideways on the drive gear. Bearings were not good and fell apart when taken out.....ball bearings everywhere.... The secondary clutch also created some havoc on the splines.
Parts replaced:
21 tooth top gear, reverse gear, secondary shaft, both bearings on the secondary shaft, seals, retaining nut and locking washer, sleeve for gear, new clips and new style square gasket for cover.
I wish Yamaha offered a update "kit" I now believe the new bearing and shaft is a direct fit. Better? TBD! That new 16 upper bearing is only $14 will see if packaging says Made In China. Here is the info on the Cat update kit. It comes with everything needed for a cat but shaft wont work on our secondary. Yamaha kit does not come with the chaincase side bearing,clips,forks etc. Just shaft,bearing and support.
Is one more washer on back order but total for everything to update to 16 shaft is about $250. The chaincase side bearing is also made in China. Its a 2206K bearing. Available from many places and manufacturers. Plastic Cage no markings on it. 62mm od x 30mm id x 20mm width. Anyone know the OD and width of old bearing? Still need to determine if the bearing fits old case like Bulletin says it will.
buddah
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I wish Yamaha offered a update "kit" I now believe the new bearing and shaft is a direct fit. Better? TBD! That new 16 upper bearing is only $14 will see if packaging says Made In China. Here is the info on the Cat update kit. It comes with everything needed for a cat but shaft wont work on our secondary. Yamaha kit does not come with the chaincase side bearing,clips,forks etc. Just shaft,bearing and support.
Before you make fun of this question keep in mind I'm not all that up on the differences..........but is it possible to use the Cat shaft/kit and then switch to the Team secondary?
Yes you could. But would require the Team Shaft. I believe its different. Alignment might be a issue. That kit is a 15 kit. Would be interesting since its a roller secondary. Works well in the 16 800 cat I have been riding once in a while.
Nytros rule
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Is one more washer on back order but total for everything to update to 16 shaft is about $250. The chaincase side bearing is also made in China. Its a 2206K bearing. Available from many places and manufacturers. Plastic Cage no markings on it. 62mm od x 30mm id x 20mm width. Anyone know the OD and width of old bearing? Still need to determine if the bearing fits old case like Bulletin says it will.
View attachment 116528 View attachment 116529 View attachment 116530 View attachment 116531
I have a brand new bearing still in the box waiting to go into my wifes sled, will dimension it tomorrow and get back to you.
ViperBill
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Belt is cut at a different angle I looked in to it would love to run the team.Before you make fun of this question keep in mind I'm not all that up on the differences..........but is it possible to use the Cat shaft/kit and then switch to the Team secondary?
ArcticPat
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My original was with a steel cage and marking 2206k, PEER brand, China.
My new one included in the kit 1702-468 was plastic cage without any marking.
Did your old shaft use the nuts and lock ring? Does your chaincase have a sight glass? If so it sure looks like the new bearing is going to fit old chaincase.View attachment 116544 New model for 2016 AC 7000/Viper
View attachment 116543. Old bearing for 2014 AC 7000/Viper
My original was with a steel cage and marking 2206k, PEER brand, China.
My new one included in the kit 1702-468 was plastic cage without any marking.
Awesome. Thanks!I have a brand new bearing still in the box waiting to go into my wifes sled, will dimension it tomorrow and get back to you.
ArcticPat
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Yes, it fit for sure. Yes, the old was with a nut and lock ring, and the chain case have a sight glass.Did your old shaft use the nuts and lock ring? Does your chaincase have a sight glass? If so it sure looks like the new bearing is going to fit old chaincase.
Here is the web site where you can compare SR viper parts number and 7000 parts number. It's what I used very often.
http://www.gbourque.com/fiche_select1.asp?cat=Snowmobiles&mfg=Arctic Cat
shagman
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2014 SR Viper XTX SE (Sold)
bearings are both the same. the only difference is the new one is cheaper in price but they are both 2206k bearing. I wouldnt use either bearing. I would use the one made by FAG bearing from Germany. That is the one I put in a month ago. 2206K-RS-TVH-C3#E
Will do.bearings are both the same. the only difference is the new one is cheaper in price but they are both 2206k bearing. I wouldnt use either bearing. I would use the one made by FAG bearing from Germany. That is the one I put in a month ago. 2206K-RS-TVH-C3#E
Nytros rule
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Awesome. Thanks!
Just measured the 14/15 Fag replacement Brg. it is, OD 62 mm, Width 20 mm, ID 30-31.6 mm tapered bore, hence the wedge and lock nut.
So for the people with 14s or 15s just replacing with the Fag Bearing as I am doing, be careful to install it correctly.
For the 16s, if that Brg. hasn't changed then the journal on the shaft must be tapered and again the Brg must be installed in the correct orientation.
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